Today I repleced the original rotor with a EBC slotted model and the brake pads with EBC's Green Stuff. I was using the Yello Stuff before but that thing creates more dust than a sand storm. I't's very efficient and does not seem to suffer from heat fatigue. It lasted approx. 12,000 miles on my JKU.

Here's a photo sequence.

Took this photo to show the dust level.



Old pads and rotor. The rotors can still last a while more. I'll take them to a shop for them to smooth the surface. I'll keep them as a spare.


The Spidertrax spacer was bonded to the old rotor. Thanks to the help of forum members' hints I was able to remove it applying heat and gently tapping it. It's important to apply heat evenly and carefully. The spacer came out undamaged.


Old pad and new pad. The Yellow Stuff is great. However, it puts out a lot of dust and my wheels became black in no time. After a while I simply let them be.
The EBC rotor looks and feels very good. Let's see how it handles the trails. I'm curious to see how the slots will handle mud and dust.


Make sure to apply thread locker.


Remember to apply a generous amout if anti-seize compound. I put very few last time and the spacer binded to the rotor. I also applied between the rotor and its mounting spot.


Clean-up the rotor well from grease and any debris. Apply lubricating grease to the brake pads guide slots and make sure it does nto spill into the rotor's surface.


Remember to push the hidraulic piston back in. Sears sells this tool for less than $10 and it works quite well.


The EBC pads came with this disk that mounts to the piston. I believe this is to help reducing noise.


Pads back in place. Now we mount the part with the piston over them. This is why it's important to push the piston all the way back in. The new pads take virtually all space and it would not be possible to mount that part with the piston not completely pushed back in.


Everything back in place. Now mouting the wheels back in and go for a ride to set the new pads and the rotor surface. Before movign the Jeep make sure to pump the brake pedal a few times so the piston comes out and compresses the new pads.

 

Cool thanks for the write up. I know I'll be dealing with the same thing in short order when I change pads and front rotors.

 

I'm not an expert at this stuff, but Spidertrax highly recommends putting red Loctite on the rotor studs, the ones that hold the spacer on. You just did the opposite by putting anti-seize on the threads. I would recommend that you reconsider this decision. The only failure of wheel spacers that I've seen on the interwebs is from the rotor studs coming loose due to improper torque or not using red Loctite.

The thread locker referenced in step 2 is red Loctite. https://system.netsuite.com/core/med...b9991&_xt=.pdf. I just don't want you to have an issue.

Scott

 

/\ x2. I missed that first read through. Red loctite needs to go on wheel studs (with spacers) and also on the caliper adapter and caliper float bolts.

 

Are you sure about that? They certainly don't come from the factory with Loctite. And you want some type of lube on the slide pins ...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Permatex/775/8...Nk5BoCKy7w_wcB

 

Teraflex recommends Lock-tite also on their videos for their Big Rotor kits.

Speaking of which, I'll be upgrading the fronts and rears to the Teraflex Big Rotors when I do my brakes. I'm not sure which pads I want. You've a similar setup and carry a like amount of weight when you're out and about in your Jeep. What are you using for pads? What's your experience been?

 

Yes, there was red Loctite on both the Caliper bracket and float bolts from the factory (13 jku) I wired brushed them clean and put red Loctite back on them.

 

This is a good deal of time out since OP created thread detailing the installation of the EBC rotors and Greenstuff pads .I would like very much to hear what his opinion if this combination is after almost a year . Rotors hold up ok ?have you had to replace pads or are they holding up ? Would you buy again ? Thanks !