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Sway Bar LINK question for the ex-spurts

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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 02:03 PM
  #1  
deconstructionist's Avatar
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From: Nor-Cal
Default Sway Bar LINK question for the ex-spurts

Managed to mangle & snap my FRONT sway bar link.....

I'm running a older FIVE INCH Trailmaster lift and it did come with the longer links. Called them & there's no luv there, they're under new ownership.

So my idiotic question is.... Can I return to using the Factory links in the short term? Or am I asking for bind-ups, etc with my sway bar?

And oh, since its been a while since I've been here, Howdy again folks

2008 Unlimited rubicon
DOES have the electric disconnect...... so can I run it lower then and stock position?

Thanks
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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 02:42 PM
  #2  
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I have never used an e-disco, so can't comment on that - but you want the swaybar itself to remain roughly parallel to the frame. The short stock links will have it pointed down at a fair angle. If/when you droop that axle, there is a chance that the swaybar will flip around backward, turning the links you just put on into pretzels. (again, don't know if the e-disco changes this)

Onroad only, shouldn't be an issue for a while. If you will be offroad, maybe try driving without the links and see what you think of the onroad handling/cornering. If it's acceptable, drive without until you can get longer links installed.
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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 03:45 PM
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I got in the same spot last summer and ran for a week without both it was just fine.

I've got some teraflex 4" ones just laying around, no studs or anything but with a Rubi you'd just need some new hardware. If you want em I'll send em your way.
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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 03:54 PM
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Theres a guy in my club who runs without a front sway bar at all. Though I don't recommend this because you will have a lot of body roll during turns on the road. As stated before they should run Inline with the frame. Couple inches off will not be bad on the road but if you do run smaller links your going to put more stress on the sway bar and links it also makes the Sway bar less effective due to the angles (Geometry)
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 07:17 AM
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Thanks guys for the info, especially about the sway running parralell to the frame.... 'learn summin' everyday 'round here!

Aside from the massive clunk sound and jolt while driving it was indeed the body roll that let me know immediately somthing was up.

sa29560- thanks for the offer, truly-- I'm going to see what the stockers do and just track down some 5 inch ones.

thanks folks!
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 10:44 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by deconstructionist
Thanks guys for the info, especially about the sway running parralell to the frame.... 'learn summin' everyday 'round here!

Aside from the massive clunk sound and jolt while driving it was indeed the body roll that let me know immediately somthing was up.

sa29560- thanks for the offer, truly-- I'm going to see what the stockers do and just track down some 5 inch ones.

thanks folks!
If you electronically disconnected and didn't manually disconnect it is likely the sway bar link and sway bar straightened out, and flipped forward when the suspension cycled back up. Your sway bar link bending/breaking over the steering is ultimately the end result. With your lift height you will want/need a longer sway bar link, factory will not cut it.

If you wish to use the E-Disconnect you need to make sure your sway bar doesn't straighten out when the suspension cycles down. If it does you will need to lengthen the link, get a longer link, or manually disconnect when you're off road.
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 12:59 PM
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Many companies offer adjustable links.

This would be a better option than finding another set of fixed links for your 5" lift. It allows you to cycle the suspension and then adjust the swaybar further up (if needed) to ensure that it cannot flip around again.

And, as noted by the folks at RK, you also have the option of adding a set of manual disconnects instead.
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