Trying to relocate rear sway bar mount location
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,368
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Long story short found some RK control arms bolted them up and my rear axle moved and so I need to relocate the rear sway bar back so that the links are more perpendicularish to the ground. So I took the rear away bar off and looks like the 2 bolts on each side where it is mounted to the frame are M10's, so I have been searching around for M10 self tappers or 3/8s self tappers and nothing. I know someone on here has moved the sway bar back and used the existing rear hole and bolt and drilled new one for the rearward hole on the sway bar bracket. This is driving me insane not being able to find the hardware.
JK Jedi
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 486
From: Knoxville
Check RK's directions to see if their hardware is listed. I *think* it's moved back 1/2" with the x factor kit. For my friend's kit we drilled the two holes about halfway in between the existing holes, drilled to their recommended width, then ran in the self tappers.
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,368
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Yeah problem is I bought the arms off Craig's and don't have the hardware that came with the RK kit. I'm going to try some flag nuts and just bore out holes for those m10s.
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Agree with previous comments here. Sometimes they're hard to locate as they can be referred to as self-tapping, self-threading, or thread cutting. Websites seem to use all different terms. I can't recall where I ended up ordering from, but think I got a bag of 10 for $5 or so. You'll want a 3/8" size. Believe I drilled 5/16" holes in the frame, followed by the 3/8" thread cutting bolt. Similar to this -
https://forestdepot.com/02-301-self-...r9kaAsQk8P8HAQ
Common problem you'll run in to moving that sway bar back, is running in to the factory exhaust if you still have it. I ended up pulling that off and replacing with a small unit to get the clearance I needed to move my sway bar back.
When you moved the axle back, did you add some RK correction wedges for your rear coils? Those made a big difference on mine....~$20 well spent.
https://forestdepot.com/02-301-self-...r9kaAsQk8P8HAQ
Common problem you'll run in to moving that sway bar back, is running in to the factory exhaust if you still have it. I ended up pulling that off and replacing with a small unit to get the clearance I needed to move my sway bar back.
When you moved the axle back, did you add some RK correction wedges for your rear coils? Those made a big difference on mine....~$20 well spent.
Last edited by resharp001; Feb 9, 2017 at 08:24 AM.
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 526
Likes: 1
From: Auburn Hills, MI
That's what I used on mine; I think it was $20? Just an aluminum block with two bolts; block bolts to the frame using the existing bolts, then sway bar bolts to the block using the supplied bolts. Moves it back and down an inch.
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JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Did you have enough room to use that with the factory muffler?
JK Junkie
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 0
From: CT
Agree with previous comments here. Sometimes they're hard to locate as they can be referred to as self-tapping, self-threading, or thread cutting. Websites seem to use all different terms. I can't recall where I ended up ordering from, but think I got a bag of 10 for $5 or so. You'll want a 3/8" size. Believe I drilled 5/16" holes in the frame, followed by the 3/8" thread cutting bolt. Similar to this - https://forestdepot.com/02-301-self-...r9kaAsQk8P8HAQ Common problem you'll run in to moving that sway bar back, is running in to the factory exhaust if you still have it. I ended up pulling that off and replacing with a small unit to get the clearance I needed to move my sway bar back. When you moved the axle back, did you add some RK correction wedges for your rear coils? Those made a big difference on mine....~$20 well spent.
