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JK Front Wheel Hub/Bearing

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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 09:16 AM
  #1  
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Default JK Front Wheel Hub/Bearing

Getting ready to replace both hub assemblies, is there any hub I should stay away from or what is the preferred hub when replacing? Driveworks $111.99, Moog $140.99, Timken $157.92?

Or other recommendations?
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 09:20 AM
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A few years ago, they were all made by Iljin, no matter what it said on the box.
Could have changed since then, but I doubt it.

Look at one in the parts store. See if it says Iljin somewhere on the back of the flange.
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 12:11 PM
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Thanks, appreciate your input.
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 12:54 PM
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I just bought mine a couple months back and went Timken because of the competitive pricing over taking a chance with the DriveWorks.

It was either Amazon or Rock Auto that had the lowest price when I was buying.

The 07-10 will be the same bearing but have a shorter ABS lead than the newer models. Routing the wire a notch up from the factory setting prevents issues of it being too short for the lift.
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
I just bought mine a couple months back and went Timken because of the competitive pricing over taking a chance with the DriveWorks. It was either Amazon or Rock Auto that had the lowest price when I was buying. The 07-10 will be the same bearing but have a shorter ABS lead than the newer models. Routing the wire a notch up from the factory setting prevents issues of it being too short for the lift.
I ended up getting a Moog from advance auto, only had 1 in stock the other will be in tomorrow morning. When you say the 07 - 10 will have a shorter ABS lead do you mean they come shorter than the present stock wiring? I only have 2 1/2" lift so I hope that this would not be an issue.
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 04:01 PM
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It won't be shorter than what you've currently got on the vehicle unless they've been previously replaced with the newer style (I had one that I 'upgraded').

I'll grab pictures in the morning but if you skip the first hard mounting point at the bj and take the rubber piece (that would normally go there) straight to what would be the second hard mounting point you'll have enough clearance. I'm also running 2.5" with the 07-10 leads and haven't polled a line out yet.
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 05:04 AM
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Your box is full.

Yes, if it was just regeared then they definitely pulled the shafts out so the hub should come out pretty easily. It's tough to tell if they pulled the hub and shaft as a single assembly or if they pulled them separately- it cuts down on labor if they can pull it together. Before you start your water pump you can get the axle nut off and spray your penetrating oil down on the splines just to be sure.
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 03:52 PM
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They definitely pulled the shaft with hub attached. Hopefully sitting overnight the PB Blaster will have eaten some of the corrosion.
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 03:54 PM
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Driver side is being stubborn!
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 04:18 PM
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Put the socket on the frontmost hub nut and turn your wheel hard passenger, it should give you a good bump towards getting it out.

Whose 2.5" do you have? It doesn't look like you'll have an issue with needing longer ABS lines or modifying like I've done.

I'm up to head over if it still isn't off in the morning.
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