Has anyone installed a Teraflex leveling kit without disconnecting the axle? I'm wondering if I use coil compressors / coil clamps if I can't just pull them out that way.

 

Honestly, it's so much easier to just disconnect the axle. Sway bar links, shock, and track bar....then droop. I guess I could see if you just have hand tools or something, the process is a little slower. I've never enjoyed using those compressors.....always have an uneasy feeling about how much energy is built up in that spring.

Also keep in mind that getting em out is a bit easier than sliding them back in....since the puck is now there and you have less room. You'd have to compress the spring even more.

 

I agree with resharp001. While you may not be comfortable with dropping the axle, it is way less work with doing so.

 

2 jack stands, a floor jack, 18mm socket, 21mm socket, and a crescent wrench, combined with even a cheap impact like this ($40 after 20% off coupon) -

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-68099.html

Makes the job pretty easy. Come to think of it Skippman, if you're talking about the 2.5" BB, you're gonna have to take the sway bar links off anyhow as the rears move to the front, and new ones are installed on the rear. Now you'd only be talking about removing the axle side TB bolt and the lower shock bolts as the additional work.

 

Nah man, it's the leveling kit, not the budget boost. I have the tools (Kobalt impact wrench and ratchet, 15 gal compressor, etc) I was just hoping to make it a quick swap out since I'm also swapping out fenders at the same time. But you're right, those coil compressors are dangerous.

 

If I had $1 for every time I THOUGHT I was taking the short cut.....LOL.

I think you should run a test. On one side try just using the coil compressor and time it. On the other side disconnect the sway, TB, and shock and time it. Report back with results!!!

 

For installing a leveling kit you don't have to disconnect the track bar. Just drop the sway bar links and the shocks and the spring will fall out.

You can pop off the TB if you want but it really isn't needed.

 

Agreed. I just did this a couple of weeks ago and didn't touch the TB. Make sure to watch the brake lines as you droop the axle and don't leave the weight on them. Very easy install and you'll be confident disconnecting your sway bars for your next trip through the rocks.

 

100% what Smudge said.

I did two of these kits in the past 6 months and drooping the axles really is the only way to go. You will need to undo the brake line frame brackets on the front as well as unbolt one end of the front drive shaft (on a two door anyway). On the rear pull the bottom shock bolts and watch the brake line as I couldn't get the axle to drop enough without removing the lines. The rear brake line bracket is on the underside of the body tub and that nut was rusted on so I bent the bracket a bit to remove them. Follow the instructions and you will be fine and expect about 4 hours to complete but its worth it and you only need to lift one end of the Jeep at a time.

 

Well, I got it all done on Friday. Learned some valuable lessons in the processes.

I ended up disconnecting almost the entire front axle. Shocks, track bar, the links, the brake line retention clips, and the front drive shaft. It was kind of a PITA. I remembered having to do all of this for my 2008's coil lift. Got the spacers in, re-seated the coils, went to put the brake clips back in and sheared off the drivers side bolt by over torquing it.

Pro-tip, when dealing with less than 20 ft lbs of torque, convert to inch lbs and use a smaller torque wrench.

A trip to the hardware store and I was back in business. Once it was sitting on the new tires I had to jack up the passengers side of the axle IIRC to get the track back to realign with the hole so I could put the bolt back.

The rear was a piece of cake, minus having to reach way the hell up in there to unbolt the parking brake clips. I REALLY need to invest in a cordless impact wrench. lol