Fellow jeepers, I will be lifting my stock 2014 jk unlimited auto within the next few weeks to 3 inches. I decided against 35s due to the extra costs of regearing. Tyre of choice is a Geolandar A/T G015 285 75r17 which measures 33.8 inches.

My questions are, will I be ok with stock gearing?
Should I install truss and gusset?
Should I upgrade to chromolly driveshafts?
Should I upgrade to Heavy-duty ball joints?

It will spend majority of its time on pavement as it's my daily driver. I will be wheeling maybe every other weekend light to medium off roading, nothing too serious lol.

If you guys think it will be a good idea for piece of mind and prevention on the trail then I'll save up and do it slowly.

Any input would be appreciated

Damn these wranglers are expensive compared to my previous fj cruiser hehe

Sending my regards from Australia

 

I have an 08 and went with 305 70r16. The super chips makes it drive-able. With a 14 I think you would be fine stock. Mine is 3.73 gear.

I went with the 16" wheel to make the KM2 tire look almost like a 35. I also did synergy ball joints, tie rod and drag link and adjustable track bars. Mine is a Dana 30. I've had zero issues. Always air down when off road.

 

Suggest taking a look at my build thread (link below). It's slightly less tire and lift, but the original ball joints and driveshafts are fine at 119000 miles (191000 KM). The trick is not spacing the wheels out, and not over doing the driveshaft angles.

I'd certainly try out the stock gears first, but you didn't mention the existing ratio. I'd stay away from truss/gusset, the welding process is often less than optimal and just might end up with a weaker and warped axle housing. Aftermarket ball joints may or may not last longer, but I'll guarantee that keeping the center of the tire tread at stock wheel spacing will last the longest. Likewise, if the angles of the stock driveshafts are not changed excessively, the CV joints will last longer, have less potential vibration issues. The ball joints and gears/axles are a good job to do at one time if that's how you want to roll.

Always wanted to visit down under and travel the outback...

 

With your stated usage, leave it alone until there is a reason to throw money at it. Front driveshaft starts spitting grease because you lifted it too high for 33" tires, then it'll be time to look aftermarket or replace the rzeppa. Bend a rear axle flange, then it's time to look at tenfactory or whoever. Ball joints, hit or miss on whether/if/when they might go, wait until they do. etc etc.

Down the road, if the rock-crawling bug hits, you'll probably want a new front axle anyway ... so you'll be glad you didn't throw away a bunch of money into a d30.

 

You don't need 3" of lift for 33" tires, they will fit on the factory set up. Factory tires are 32". Stay 2" or under to save yourself some headaches and have a better drive. A 1" spacer lift or the JKS ACOS would be all you really need. You don't need any of the things you listed. All are a waste of money on a daily driver.

 

Mr.T sorry for my late reply. I've heard with 3" lifts you might rub on the rear upper control arms when flexing. Depending on how much rubbing I'll get maybe wheel spacers might have to be installed?



I couldn't see the link to your build? You make a good point about the truss. I'll stay away from them.



Reason I want to install a lift is because 1. the stock ride is pretty crap over bumps and pot holes 2. Break over angle sucks. So I've heard amazing things about evo Plush springs and Rancho 9000 shocks so I'm pretty excited to install those. Yes it'll hurt the bank a little, it just means I'll have to work extra hard to make up for it.

I'm looking at 4800 Australian dollars which includes everything required to lift it minus the front drive shaft and 5800 with the drive shaft.

I live close to the east coast and it's beautiful!

 

TheDirtman you make a very good point and I'm considering changing my setup in regards to your comment and your thread write up about your thoughts on lifts.

I want to install evo plush ride coils because they're supposed to be really comfortable. They sell a 2" front coil but no 2 inch rear coil only 3" rear. Do you think if i get the 3" rear lift & 2" front and add an extra inch spacer up front I'll be ok? That way I can avoid correcting the geometry up front and driveshaft saving me money

 

Click here, this link should go to it... Old Man Emu, from Australia!

 

I'm no expert but still running a D30 for awhile.
When purchased mine had a 2.5" lift and 35s with stock sport gears. Doable yes, wasn't horrible on the highway at all. Previous owner wheeled out in Colorado with it as well no issues - minus the hills, he said you could definitely notice stock gears on any hill.

Currently I'm sitting on same setup, but added 4.56 gears and selectable lockers front and rear. Only upgrades I've done to my D30 so far has been Teraflex balljoints and Metalcloak tierod. Everything else is stock - and it's held up fine so far. I mean down the road I plan on swapping an aftermarket 44 in, but that's a few years out. Drove 1900 miles to Moab and wheeled (FIns n Things, Hells Revenge, Top of the World, and Poison Spider) no issues at all, drove home excellent up to 89mph with no vibes, and straight. Put over 22k miles on this setup now and D30 has held up fine. But I don't beat on it either - cause I know its only a D30 - lol.

 

Mr. T or Dirtman, can you elaborate on the above comment "I'll guarantee that keeping the center of the tire tread at stock wheel spacing will last the longest" I think i know what you mean. I'm considering 35s instead of 33s and it will be cheaper for me to buy wheel spacers instead of backspaced wheels.

Does the above comment suggest that doing either will compromise the strength of the Axles?