I have seen mixed reports on the teraflex ball joints on a 2012 and newer jk. I am not fond of shaving any part of my axle shafts, will I have to modify my axle shafts for my 2015 JKUR?

 

Haven't seen much talk about the TF BJs on here in a little while. I see what you're talking about per this TSB -

https://teraflex.com/file/attachment...008f0db671.pdf

I would say based on that document, yes, you'd be "clearancing" the saddles for those grease zerks on the lowers. That would suck. I'm sure it's fine, but I wouldn't be thrilled about that either. Maybe someone that has installed these will chime in.

 

Are you totally committed to TF? I would not want to shave or clearance to make something work when there are other BJoints that have zerks and probably don't require clearancing.

 

I’m open to others. I don’t have the loot for rare parts or dynatraks. I have heard synergy is good.

any recommendations?

btw, this is all in prep in beefing my d44 axle up to run 37’s. I have 1 ton steering already and will also soon add trusses that will be welded to the diff housing.

 

You say you don't have the loot for Rare Parts, but then everything you say in the last line points to you needing RP. Just buy them and be happy you did. Don't do DT, Synergy, Alloy, and all that other crap won't hold up. Either take you chances with TF with slight modification, or go with Rare Parts. The forum is here for you to learn from all those that came before. You don't have to listen to me, I'm not the end all be all, but I've traveled that path.

 

So rare parts are the holy grail of ball joints? I’m just trying to milk the d44 for as long as I can with minimal investment. D60’s are obviously a lot of money and are a ways down the road for me.

if teraflex is the next beat option aside from rare parts then maybe I’ll just get the teraflex. Chromoly axle shafts are thinner from what I hear and don’t need to be clearanced. When my front axle shafts break due to 37’s, I’ll get chromo shafts

 

For the D30/44, RP is as good as you're gonna find IMO. If you are just buying time till a D60, then I'd do the TF and modify the shafts. You're likely fine, as much as it stinks to HAVE to do that modification. I wheeled the heck outta stock Rubi front shafts with 37s and never had a problem with em. The rears definitely need upgraded due to the flanges, but you can bend chromoly rears as well with a bit more effort. I have RCVs now as they came with an axle swap, and they are indeed nice, but I'd bet you never have to worry about those front shafts before you get to a D60. Just my 2c.

 

I wonder if you'd have to clearance the shafts at all if you run the zerks towards the inside as they suggest for the RCV's. I have a friend who did the grinding- he said it was a lot but we played with his jeep like it was rented and never had issues. He ended up selling it so I guess the next owner will find out if the shafts hold up. He was heavy with the throttle and on 37x13.5's.

 

They suggest the zerks outward with RCVs, but i'm sure that is cuz how that RCV tapers vs. the outter stub saddle. For non-RCV, I suspect it's easier to clearance the inner stub than the outer stub, but I have not installed these BJs, so just thinking out loud.

 

So it’s the zerks that hit and not the body of the ball joint? If that’s the case I’d just use an Allen head flush plug and remove them every 5k miles or so to grease the joints.