I was told the only way to get ALL of the transmission fluid out of the system when changing the fluid/filter is to turn the torque converter.

I am not sure if this is true, and if so, how do I do it?

i have dropped the transmission pan and filter so far. Yes, it was a mess. However, I was able to get most of the fluid in the drain pan... lol

I am aware of the other methods shops use to flush the fluid. I don’t have the ability to do that, so I decided to drop the pan.

If there is any fluid left up there, how do I get it out?

I have already tried unhooking the coil wire and turning it over a few times. Only a small amount of fluid dropped out when I did this.

thanks for any help.

2007 jku with the 3.8

 

For a fluid change, it’s not necessary. Just get the fluid from the pan and pay attention to the fluid level when filling it back up.

 

okay. I thought someone told me there was about two and a half more quarts left to drain via the torque converter is all.

thank you for the help. I Will just put the pan and new filter back up and fill.

 

I agree....drain, change filter, and refill is completely acceptable. Trying to flush it all just creates more headaches. Now that you know how much fun it is to drop the pan.....what do you think about the idea of pulling as much fluid as possible from the dip stick tube via a mittyvac first? That is what I'll do next time since I didn't replace with a pan that as a drain plug.

 

i actually have the container/pump tool to do that, but I am missing the hose. I used it for my Lexus for a couple years changing the oil.

Now the challenge is getting the bolts back in the pan, behind the exhaust. Fml

 

I think we all did it the hard way the first time. Haha, next time I’ll use a mittyvac.

 

jeep started lunging a little in reverse last week. Crossing fingers

 

This type of allen wrench and allen screw will make it a lot easier.

 

thank you. I will have to find those ASAP.

 

just an update. I found the bolts mentioned at Lowe’s and the wrench set at autozone.

when I dropped the pan, I noticed there was no gasket. It just had an rtv type of sealant on it. I scrapped about 90 % of the residual off the surface and ran a thin layer of orange rtv around the pan. I did Not run it around the bolt hole areas. I then placed a Wix gasket on the RTV. Replaced the filter with the new Wix as well.

Then I placed the pan back up and bolted it on, without RTV between the transmission and gasket. I tightened the bolts down with a 10mm socket 1/4” drive, until I noticed the gasket squishing. I did not use a torque wrench. Three of the bolts were replaced by the Allen wrench style and tightened with the ball point Allen wrench.

I poured two quarts of Amzoil Synthetic ATF and Lucas additive.

when I started the engine, I noticed it leaking from one of the outer Allen bolts and decided to replace it with the original (I was able to get into that area okay) with RTV on the bolt. It stopped leaking there, however, I noticed it leaking along the edge/crack of the pan near the same area.

while inspecting the pan, I noticed someone had torqued the bolts down (at some point) enough to bend the holes a little. So, I decided to call Jeep and order a new pan.

when I placed the order, Jeep told me the pan does NOT come with, or use a separate gasket. They told me it calls for RTV only.

so, after reading up a little on this site, I am going to try and figure out the absolute best RTV type and torque it to spec (I believe 10 foot lbs).

has anyone else had issues with theirs leaking? Similar experiences?


On a side note, I also noticed ATF dripping from the bell housing. More than it did in the past. Not sure how to fix that.