Battery Slowly Draining
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Aledo
Battery Slowly Draining
So, I have been dealing with the Jeep for about a month. Started with the brake light Christmas tree as described here:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...lights-353956/
This was my last update:
Well, it hasn't totally solved the problem. Before I messed with the positive winch connection, you could hook the voltmeter to the battery and watch the voltage slowly count down. It isn't draining that fast anymore, but after a day or so of sitting, it will drop from 12 something to 11 something, or maybe even 10. So there is obviously still an issue.
Any ideas on what else to check?
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...lights-353956/
This was my last update:
Update. So, after a couple of days the Christmas tree went away. But then after sitting for a couple of days without driving it, the battery was dead again. After jumping and starting it, everything
was fine. But when I put a voltmeter on it, the charge was slowly going down. Battery and alternator checked out at O'Reilly so the problem seems to be in the wiring somewhere. Maybe a wire touching metal somewhere.
Today, looked at the winch connection and noticed two things. The positive connection was really corroded and a torque screw was just sitting there touching it. Removed the screw and cleaned up the connection. Winch works and battery doesn't appear to be slowly draining anymore.
Fingers crossed, but after a month of checking different things, maybe I solved the problem.
was fine. But when I put a voltmeter on it, the charge was slowly going down. Battery and alternator checked out at O'Reilly so the problem seems to be in the wiring somewhere. Maybe a wire touching metal somewhere.
Today, looked at the winch connection and noticed two things. The positive connection was really corroded and a torque screw was just sitting there touching it. Removed the screw and cleaned up the connection. Winch works and battery doesn't appear to be slowly draining anymore.
Fingers crossed, but after a month of checking different things, maybe I solved the problem.
Any ideas on what else to check?
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,068
Likes: 116
From: Bunnlevel, NC
Give this a try. It's called IOD (Ignition Off Drain)... you may have that issue.
Here are the details concerning an ignition off draw test. Read them carefully. One point to be
aware of is the one about waiting 3 minutes after connecting the ammeter in series to allow the
systems to shut down again. Any break in continuity with the ammeter will require another 3
minute waiting period.
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained
from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system
will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in
the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five
milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the
vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery
to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored),
remove the IOD fuse from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). This will reduce battery
discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
Electrical items left on.
Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
An internally shorted generator.
Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before
replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the
excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and
close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically
tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time
out). This may take up to three minutes.
2. Determine that the under-hood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire
harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.
3. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
4. Set an electronic digital multimeter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multimeter
between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative
terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not
activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may
not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the
electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multimeter leads must be securely clamped to the
battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity
between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during
any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will
have to be repeated.
5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multimeter should become
very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage
reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated
Power Module (TIPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or
nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete TIPM fuse, circuit breaker,
and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of
the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing
each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage
reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, there may be an internal short in the generator.
After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower
amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace
process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest
milliamp scale of the multimeter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliamp
scale selected, or the multimeter may be damaged.
6. Observe the multimeter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five
milliamp (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamp, isolate each circuit
using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in STEP 5. The multimeter
reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is
disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch
adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
Here are the details concerning an ignition off draw test. Read them carefully. One point to be
aware of is the one about waiting 3 minutes after connecting the ammeter in series to allow the
systems to shut down again. Any break in continuity with the ammeter will require another 3
minute waiting period.
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained
from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system
will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in
the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five
milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the
vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery
to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored),
remove the IOD fuse from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). This will reduce battery
discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
Electrical items left on.
Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
An internally shorted generator.
Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before
replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the
excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and
close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically
tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time
out). This may take up to three minutes.
2. Determine that the under-hood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire
harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.
3. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
4. Set an electronic digital multimeter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multimeter
between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative
terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not
activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may
not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the
electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multimeter leads must be securely clamped to the
battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity
between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during
any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will
have to be repeated.
5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multimeter should become
very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage
reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated
Power Module (TIPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or
nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete TIPM fuse, circuit breaker,
and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of
the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing
each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage
reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, there may be an internal short in the generator.
After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower
amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace
process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest
milliamp scale of the multimeter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliamp
scale selected, or the multimeter may be damaged.
6. Observe the multimeter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five
milliamp (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamp, isolate each circuit
using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in STEP 5. The multimeter
reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is
disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch
adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
