Hey everyone, i purchased a 2.5in Rough country lift from a friend off his jeep. Besides the springs, struts, and brake line relocation bracket, is there anything else i need?

purchased front sway bar disconnects already and the exhuast spacer kit.

thank you everyone for any and all help!

 

I hope you didn't pay said friend much of anything for that.

You'll need proper bumpstops, a raised rear TB bracket, preferably a form of caster correction, and an adjustable front TB. Some could argue the lift isn't high enough to warrant an adjustable TB. If you care about your axle being centered you'll need one. If those are RC shocks, you may as well put some decent shocks on to start.

 

paid $100 for it all. Figured for $100 for the shocks/struts and $100 for brake bracket and disconnects, $200 total isnt bad. Also i was told not to worry about trackbar for now. When i go above 3in then to upgrade that. And youre the first to mention bumpstops.

 

Forgot that you probably need longer sway links in back as well. You'll want your sway bars to be angled up just a couple degrees. You don't want them angled down at all.

Keep in mind that when you left the jeep, if you don't account for TB lengths then the front axle will shift to the driver's side, and the rear axle will shift to the passenger side. You can determine if that is a big enough difference on that lift to address it or not, but the axles won't be centered. I've no clue why someone wouldn't think bump stops needed to be addressed any time the height of a jeep is changed. Only thing i can think of is someone might say their lift didn't come with bumpstops so there was no need to change them. That is how cheap lifts are so cheap....the omit things you need to keep the sticker price down and "appear" more affordable. If you're 100% on pavement, less important. If you head off road at all then look at bumpstops. You want to limit your shocks from completely compressing and limit stuffing your tires up into your fenders.

You can literally throw the springs under it and drive down the street. The jeep isn't going to blow up. Doesn't mean that is the proper thing to do. That is how so many people come to the conclusion: "that is just how a lifted jeep rides" (ie, like crap).

 

Right now it’s minimal off roading. Sometimes we will find a trail that the jeep was easily able to handle “stock”. Next year we are planning to go a bit more in depth with off roading as my buddy builds his cherokee up also.

 

In the rear, adding bump stops later is nbd. In the front, you have to remove the springs to add bumpstops....and that means removing wheels and disconnecting TB on top of jacking up the jeep and supporting the frame so you can lower the axle enough to slide those springs back out. It's just a bit more of a pain the butt to add such a simple item. Easier to just do it up front when you're installing springs. Just something to think about.

 

If you're already in there doing springs, I'd suggest you put some nutserts into the center of the spring pocket so you can DIY adjustable bumpstops without having to drop the coil. If I had known, I would have done it years ago. I tried the double-sided tape and hockey pucks. It worked until I bumped the tape loose, flexed it a little, and the puck slid out. I installed nutserts when I had my axle out this past month.

 

Caster correction -this is for the 100% of the time you are driving on the pavement, not the .001% you are in the dirt. (drive it and see what you think of the steering. You may be ok with a little bit of squirly/flighty, you may not, we all have our own opinions...)

Rear axle centering - a raised bracket helps with handling while onroad. (inexpensive enough, no reason to not go ahead and get one if not included.)

Front axle centering - up to you. See what you think of the axle positioning and then decide. (notice, raised rear trackbar bracket, but front adj trackbar. Don't do a raised bracket up front. That is for taller lifts and High Steers/Flips)

Longer Swaybar links - when you flex the suspension, links that are too short can allow the swaybar to flip around backwards, which generally turns the links into pretzels. Not saying it will happen, just that numerous pics have been posted here by people asking why it happened to them. (it has even happened on a frame-lift while sitting in a repair shop...)

Bumpstops - these are the RC shocks that shipped with the RC lift, correct? Don't they come with their own integrated bumpstops? (But yeah, adding real stops would be the better plan - though if you are planning on a better lift next year, they'll come with it...)

Brakelines/Brackets - be sure to check the tightness of the lines to see if that needs to be addressed.

 

subscribed, this seems like a very interesting thread