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JK Off-Road 101Bulletin board forum regarding topics such as general off-roading tips, tricks, techniques and equipment usage such as winching and vehicle recovery information.
DIY project: planning to replace my old stock rear bumper to an off road one. Saw this, https://www.mopargenuineparts.com/sku/82213579ac.html, is it practical to buy? (sorry if this is dmb question) - been looking for other online-only sites like extremeterrain, quadratec, etc. usual range price is 700 to 1000 bucks. If you all guys have some suggestions, please let me know.
Another is I'm seeking for help on how to properly remove a JK Wrangler stock rear bumper. Not on step by step basis, but on things that I might get wrong.
This is a 2014 model btw. Just learning about jeeps. Thanks!
I wouldn't buy the Mopar bumper unless you're set on factory parts....some of us are. You can get better bumpers for that same price or save a little bit.
As far as removal goes, it's not tough and if you get the bolts you can see then I believe you just rotate the bumper up and out towards you because there are two boogers that are tough to get to. Also- the nutserts go into plastic so if they start to spin then move on and just pull it.
I recall on my 2012 that the bolt on the driver side tow hook was ridiculously long for its purpose. I could only turn the wrench a little. It each time and it fought me all the way until the nut came off. My advice is to spray all fasteners with something like PB blaster a day or so before you plan to remove the bumper.
Not sure if you have done the bumper removal yet. I just replaced my 2014 front and rear bumper, for the rear there are 2 bolts on the outside of the frame rail that need to come off and then 2 more tucked up behind the muffler. You need to remove the upper bolts that go into the bumper to get it off, then after remove the lower to remove the bracket.
I ended up going with a Metalcloak 62" Crawler with tire carrier
dont mind the mess, Metalcloak decided to send each part in its own box so i had 8 huge boxes with all the packing just thrown around.
Of course, if you're planning on backing into mailboxes or getting rear ended, I do recommend a bumper.. I don't think there's any way you can take it off wrong. The crossmember holds everything together, just unbolt whatever you find.
I was tempted to just add shackle mounts like that first pic, but didn't like the unfinished look, so ended up with the cheap frame cover w/mounts from olympic. As you point out, it won't take a hit since it's just a thin metal, but it is only there to hide the frame so it does its job. Keep saying that I'll get around to a replacement bumper, but it never seems to happen.
I was tempted to just add shackle mounts like that first pic, but didn't like the unfinished look, so ended up with the cheap frame cover w/mounts from olympic. As you point out, it won't take a hit since it's just a thin metal, but it is only there to hide the frame so it does its job. Keep saying that I'll get around to a replacement bumper, but it never seems to happen.
Actually the crossmember itself is pretty stout. I was rear ended pretty hard in that configuration with just a Curt hitch mounted license plate bracket for protection. The bracket and crossmember took the full force of the hit without much issue. The bigger problem is that the crossmember (or any of the minimalist cover solutions) is so tight to the body, there's a lot of risk to the tailgate, tub, and spare. I got super lucky that a minivan hit me while nose-diving under hard braking. If it had been a pickup the outcome would have been much different.
My damage:
Her damage: (always carry your extinguisher, kids)
I am running the Poison Spyder weld in replacement crossmember with the hitch instead of a bumper. I like how clean and simple it looks, and it is tough as shit. I use my Jeep in 4-lo as a tractor around my property some times, pulling stuff I absolutely should not be from the "recover point" hitch. No problems so far. The stock bumper was easy to get off. The factory tow hook was the hardest part.
PS weld-in crossmember with hitch.
Last edited by hivoltagedriver; Mar 31, 2021 at 05:30 AM.