Jeep JK locker for rear Dana 44 (Non-Rubicon)
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 1
From: Miami Beach, Florida
Jeep JK locker for rear Dana 44 (Non-Rubicon)
Hey guys!
I'm looking for a locker for the rear Dana 44 in my JK and was wondering if you guys had any ideas or suggestions or even lockers you might want to sell. Also I'm thinking of re-gearing it from 3.73 to 4.11.
Thanks !!!
I'm looking for a locker for the rear Dana 44 in my JK and was wondering if you guys had any ideas or suggestions or even lockers you might want to sell. Also I'm thinking of re-gearing it from 3.73 to 4.11.
Thanks !!!
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Are you doing the work yourself, or paying a shop? If a shop, are you planning on buying and supplying parts? Which engine/trans, and what size tires?
If you are paying labor, I think that most here will tell you that jumping a single gear ratio is not worth it. Depending on location, somewhere around $1500-$1600 is typical for a gear install, with some parts of the country charging well over $3000. But, it's your money. On the plus side, it would basically be free labor for the locker, since the gears have to be redone anyway for any of the full case traction devices.
For which specific locker, it depends. If you want selectable, ARB is a long-time favorite, and Yukon has a newer option that was less expensive and had a nice lifetime warranty (+ collateral damage) when I got mine. The downside, they need air. Eaton e-locker is another popular choice now that they redesigned it to a 4-pin, electric, not air. If you are thinking auto-locker, Detroit is the long-time favorite, but there are some newer options that are worth a look. I know Yukon one, but I have not seen any longer-term reviews yet to see how it holds up. Depending on your usage, a limited slip (gear-driven, not clutch-based) may be all you would ever need. Detroit Truetrac is the long-term leader, though there is another one on the market now, though the name has slipped my mind. And if cheap is what you want, there are lots of favorable reviews of lunchbox lockers, though they come with their own quirks. They have the benefit of easier installation, in many cases people do it in there garage or driveway instead of paying a gear installer.
Depending on the cost of labor in your area and your offroad needs, you might also consider a set of take-off axles from a rubicon. These will come with either 3.73 or 4.10 (verify which if you go this route), along with the electric locker and the internal upgrades. Not a cheap option, but it can make sense in some situations.
Give some feedback on what you will be using it for and your budget, and you'll get some better replies...
If you are paying labor, I think that most here will tell you that jumping a single gear ratio is not worth it. Depending on location, somewhere around $1500-$1600 is typical for a gear install, with some parts of the country charging well over $3000. But, it's your money. On the plus side, it would basically be free labor for the locker, since the gears have to be redone anyway for any of the full case traction devices.
For which specific locker, it depends. If you want selectable, ARB is a long-time favorite, and Yukon has a newer option that was less expensive and had a nice lifetime warranty (+ collateral damage) when I got mine. The downside, they need air. Eaton e-locker is another popular choice now that they redesigned it to a 4-pin, electric, not air. If you are thinking auto-locker, Detroit is the long-time favorite, but there are some newer options that are worth a look. I know Yukon one, but I have not seen any longer-term reviews yet to see how it holds up. Depending on your usage, a limited slip (gear-driven, not clutch-based) may be all you would ever need. Detroit Truetrac is the long-term leader, though there is another one on the market now, though the name has slipped my mind. And if cheap is what you want, there are lots of favorable reviews of lunchbox lockers, though they come with their own quirks. They have the benefit of easier installation, in many cases people do it in there garage or driveway instead of paying a gear installer.
Depending on the cost of labor in your area and your offroad needs, you might also consider a set of take-off axles from a rubicon. These will come with either 3.73 or 4.10 (verify which if you go this route), along with the electric locker and the internal upgrades. Not a cheap option, but it can make sense in some situations.
Give some feedback on what you will be using it for and your budget, and you'll get some better replies...
Last edited by nthinuf; Sep 30, 2020 at 01:02 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 1
From: Miami Beach, Florida
Thanks for replying so quickly!
So I plan to do this myself. I mistakenly said I had 3.73s I actually have 3.21s. I have the 3.8 with the 6 speed. I do prefer to do it by myself just cause I want the experience but if it gets to point where I can't do it because I don't have a lift or a welder or even a proper workspace then I just might consider paying someone to do it. Budget wise, I have enough money to buy the parts below and do it myself, I can't afford to pay some else to do it.
So right now I have 29 inch tires but I want to go to a 33 inch tire so I'd have to swap the gears anyways so it isn't so sluggish. I found a 4.11 Yukon kit for the front and back with both rebuild kits (even though I'm going to change the carrier of the Dana 30 to feet the new gears) and a Yukon Dura Grip Positraction for a good deal. But I like the idea of the Detroit true track instead of a locker for better drivability. But I'm somewhat of a newbie, I've redone the hole front of my car (track bar, ball joints, knuckles, etc.) all with simple tools, so I'm wondering what would I need to do this by myself, for example, a press, some special tool to take off something, etc. Also, how long would it take me.
I've considered and prefer the Rubicon swap (it seems much easier and I get better gears and two lockers) but I can't seem to find any axles near me. I'm not sure to wait for something to pop or go ahead and regear and put the locker/LSD.
Thanks for advice, really appreciate !!
So I plan to do this myself. I mistakenly said I had 3.73s I actually have 3.21s. I have the 3.8 with the 6 speed. I do prefer to do it by myself just cause I want the experience but if it gets to point where I can't do it because I don't have a lift or a welder or even a proper workspace then I just might consider paying someone to do it. Budget wise, I have enough money to buy the parts below and do it myself, I can't afford to pay some else to do it.
So right now I have 29 inch tires but I want to go to a 33 inch tire so I'd have to swap the gears anyways so it isn't so sluggish. I found a 4.11 Yukon kit for the front and back with both rebuild kits (even though I'm going to change the carrier of the Dana 30 to feet the new gears) and a Yukon Dura Grip Positraction for a good deal. But I like the idea of the Detroit true track instead of a locker for better drivability. But I'm somewhat of a newbie, I've redone the hole front of my car (track bar, ball joints, knuckles, etc.) all with simple tools, so I'm wondering what would I need to do this by myself, for example, a press, some special tool to take off something, etc. Also, how long would it take me.
I've considered and prefer the Rubicon swap (it seems much easier and I get better gears and two lockers) but I can't seem to find any axles near me. I'm not sure to wait for something to pop or go ahead and regear and put the locker/LSD.
Thanks for advice, really appreciate !!
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
These two threads are old, but might help out a bit with some gear install info. Same guy wrote them about a month apart, haven't really looked to see if any of the data is different between them.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...gearing-82262/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi.../begins-78112/
One note on the Truetrac - it is made from case-hardened metal, and a few have posted that their specific jk's came with a different carrier bolt spacing (been a while, but I think that was the issue). If you find that the holes on the truetrac aren't lining up, expect to be making a trip to a machine shop to get it drilled out. (Even though I am running air lockers this time around, for my usage, truetracs are still my favorite traction devices. So just to throw out another suggestion, consider ditching the clutch-based front limited slip and going for a second truetrac instead.)
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...gearing-82262/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi.../begins-78112/
One note on the Truetrac - it is made from case-hardened metal, and a few have posted that their specific jk's came with a different carrier bolt spacing (been a while, but I think that was the issue). If you find that the holes on the truetrac aren't lining up, expect to be making a trip to a machine shop to get it drilled out. (Even though I am running air lockers this time around, for my usage, truetracs are still my favorite traction devices. So just to throw out another suggestion, consider ditching the clutch-based front limited slip and going for a second truetrac instead.)