Hey everyone, looking for advice on a new part I bought from Barnes 4wd. It’s the 1 ton tie rod setup. I over looked the specs for installation. My wheels are 20x12 on 37x13.5 r20 with 4.77 of backspacing. It requires 4.5 or less. What are my options? Add spacers? Will it fit with that backspace? Thanks in advance for anyone giving it.

 

I think with you having 20” wheels, your back spacing will be fine. Install the tie rod and turn the wheels full lock to lock. As long as nothing touches, you’re fine.

 

So the main issue with rubbing occurs at full turns then? By having 20” wheels they may be far enough away to not hit. When I was under the Jeep the other day it looks like the previous owner added two washers to the turn bump stop too. Is this something that would prevent the tre from hitting too?. Let’s say I do install and do have rubbing. Would the issue be that I need to add spacers then? Barnes mentioned taking a flap wheel to the TRE to make them fit? What do you think?

 

I think the reason for the backspacing is to keep the inside edge of the wheel from hitting the tie rod end. But, since your inside edge of your wheel has more clearance since it’s a 20” wheel, you may be okay. The worst thing you can do is install the kit and find out it doesn’t fit and then you have to address the issue.

I don’t know how I feel about grinding down and part of the tie rod end. That’s critical safety components... and if you have a tie rod end that breaks due to a weaker housing or a hairline crack, you can be in big trouble especially if it happens at high speeds. To be honest, I wouldn’t grind the tie rod ends at all, it’s not worth the risk and could potentially kill you or others on the road if it breaks while driving. Keep in mind, the tie rod and tie rod ends are the ONLY thing keeping your wheels pointed in the right direction (aside from the drag link which only connects to your passenger knuckle).

Install the steering kit, if you don’t have clearance then add wheel spacers.

 

Just a few more thoughts on this... what if I line up the new set up next to the old, turn the wheels and replicate a contact point. What if I measure the distance, at full turn and the gap between the TRE with the original one and inside rim and compare that to the larger TRE? Shouldn’t that give me an idea of how much room I have to play with?

 

Sure, you can take a bunch of measurements and compare... but unless you’re close to spot on then there’s room for error. I’d just take the 20 minutes to swap your tie rods, verify if it works and be done with it.

 

Thank you! I will give it a try! The reason for hesitation is because of the wife! I love spending money and time on the Jeep. If it rubs, then I have to spend more to get it right and then I hear the blah blah blah. I would like to reiterate how this forum has been a great resource!

 

Sorry to hit up the thread so much with questions. Here are pics of clearance with full turns. Also, regarding toe in, when I replace the tre with the new one and wheels on the ground, how does the toe in really change if it’s just replacing it. Do the new tre sit different and you can’t exactly replace them in the same position?

 

It looks like you're in the clear for days. As far as your toe goes- I've done it as you describe- leave the jeep on its own weight with the front tires on the ground. Drop the tie rod and put the new one up. Rotate the bar until your TRE's are pointed straight up and slip right in to the holes in the knuckles. It's painless and will get you pretty much dead on. That worked great until I replaced a kinked steel tie rod, and while the new one was able to match it, the toe was already out so I had to correct it.

 

All done!
The only thing is now it pulls to the left. Which way should I adjust the bar to correct it?