2016 JKU. 4” lift. 37/13.50/20 tires. Adjustable track bar.

can drag link stay in stock position under the knuckle? Or is it mandatory to flip over the knuckle?

thanks in advance.

 

It's just highly recommended at that height to flip it for better handling/ steering response. You could get away without the flip, many do, but if you know it'll make the steering better, why not?

 

Do you currently have some bumpsteer? Flipping makes a big difference IMO, but it's not "required". Having proper caster is another thing that comes into play. A lot of people running taller lifts are rollin with low caster which accentuates bumpsteer even more.

 

Oh yeah wicked bump steer and DW when I hit bumps. I’ve been running factory steering linkage up to this point. I changed track bars when I installed The lift. I’m also using AEV geo brackets which should be correcting caster. A month ago I changed from 35s on 16” wheels to 37s on 20” wheels. It only took 2-3 weeks to expose the weakness in my steering. I have not wheeled at all since the tire change. I ordered a 1 ton steering kit that will arrive next week. However I forgot to indicate my lift size. The kit can be flipped but I won’t have the correct tie rod ends out of the box so I’ll have to exchange them. I was just hoping to be back in business sooner than later. No worries. Thanks for the reply!!

 

I figured as much. Just trying to cut turnaround time out. Ha. Thanks for replying.

 

If it has the standard ends, you may want to keep those as replacements for your tie rod. They can be $36ish bucks online and might be cheaper if you've already got a set on hand.

 

Did you get the wobble addressed and fixed? Have you replaced or inspected your ball joints? The weight of 37s is definitely a big step up in steering stress.

 

the new linkage kit will have gm 1 ton TREs on both the tie rod and drag link. If I flip it ver the knuckle the right and left hand threads need switched on the high angle end and the offset end. I may just order the correct ends and keep the others also. The builder is the one who suggested sending back and swapping at no cost(other than a little shipping...)

 

yeah the ball joints aren’t really bad at all. Maybe, maybe a little movement when cranking the pry bar on the tire. But nothing crazy. I removed the pins and torqued the castle nuts a little more. I’ll def upgrade in the future but not imminent danger right now. The drag link however is gone. And one rod end on the tie rod is sloppy. I’m only catching the wobble when instigated by the bump steer. Not a constant and not consistent. And you are very right in the weight difference!!! Lugging these monsters around is a chore compared to 16” 35s!! 😂😂

 

You should have practically zero movement in the BJ. When you put a shovel or pry under the tire and create upward movement, it's ok to see a little "flex" if you will, but if there is any up/down movement in the knuckle (easiest to spot by the upper BJ and C), it's toast.....and don't think that just a little movement can't have big effects. My 2c at least. Even if you correct bumpsteer, the underlying wobble issue will still be there (ie, bumpsteer triggers is, but is not the sole cause).