Hi Everyone,

So I am taking my jeep into a transmission shop next week as there is something up with the rear differential. My normal auto shop can't make the repairs. I would like to start thinking about options for when they come back with the diagnosis. My ultimate plan for the jeep is to slowly replace things that break with the goal parts of the build. Right now I have an almost stock 2011 JKU Sahara. I bought it used and the only thing that isn't stock are the 33' tires. For now, my plans are to get a 3.5" lift w/ 35" tires. I am also aiming to get front and rear lockers and a possible re-gear. Given that my plans also include upgrading the axles, I was originally planning to get them done in the following order: Lift > Tires > Axles (re-gear & lockers also).

I had not planned on the rear differential going out so soon, so my order has changed. My question is this: is there any cost savings to just buying the real axle (Dana 44 or 60) now and no doing the re-gear until I get the lift and tires? Do I need to get the lockers done at the same time as the re-gear?

I guess I am asking, Is there a cheaper way to do this in steps, or do I just need to do this all at once?

Thanks in advance!

 

IIRC, your Sahara already has a D44 in the rear and you mentioned a D60, so I'm assuming you mean axle housings and not axle shafts. If you can swing a D60 and you're only replacing parts for your end goal, I'd go that route with your preferred locker and gearing; however, it would be preferable with a higher gear ratio than what came on your Sahara, so you would need to regear the front axle too and you would need new wheels since the bolt pattern would be different. If your rear end only needs a rebuild, it will be cheaper to do the regear and locker at the same time instead of two steps, but you'll need to gear the front too. Technically, you could pull the front driveshaft and regear the front at a later time if you don't need the 4WD immediately.

 

You don't need a rear D60 to go play with 35s, unless you are just looking to blow more than double on a rear axle assembly. Putting the build cost into your current D44 would look somewhat like this - rear selectable locker $1k, rear regear $750 +/-, near rear chromoly axle shafts to match new locker splines $500. So, for $2250 you roll out with a rebuilt rear axle that is probably perfect for your use. A rear D60 gonna run $5k +/-. Either direction you'll be paying another $750 +/- to regear the front.

If you're really talking about investing a bit in the jeep and were thinking about a full float rear 60, THEN maybe that makes more sense to move away from a semi-float axle, but most folks don't go that far. Those rear 60s weigh a heckalot too.....gonna slow that 3.8L down even more so keep that in mind.

One thing to keep in mind are driveshaft upgrades, specifically in the rear. Rear aftermarket driveshafts are going to swap that pinion flange for a yoke. It is best to just do that when you regear so in the future you just don't have to ever worry about removing that pinion nut to get a yoke installed. In the front you can get a DS that bolts up to your pinion flange so it's not as big of a deal unless you just want to swap to a yoke. That front DS won't last too long on a 3.5" lift if it's still factory after all these years.

If you're in a pinch and not ready to commit money to all the changes, just pay to get the rear gears replaced and roll on. Yes it would be a little cash in the trash in the long run, but that beats overextending yourself financially sometimes if you're not prepared for all the related build changes yet.

 

You are planning too much lift for 35's. At that height you are going to have to replace most of the suspension and steering. 35" tires will have actual heights of 33.5"-34.8" so I would start out by picking the tire you want to run. If you are going to take the jeep off road look for the rare C rated tire and avaoid E rated tires.Your factory 44's are fine for up to a 35" tire like they were designed for. A regear should also include a larer 35 spline locker and new 35 spline shafts to remove the weak link from the 44. This all has to be done at the same time. Moving to a full float 60 would be pretty bullet proof with 35's and if you have the coin go that route. Typically around $5k and you will have a different bolt pattern on the rear than factory. With a 60 you also need a shorter driveshaft. You can get flanged driveshafts but the JK crowd just buys what is available instead of finding the best route to go for them. You can also look for some Rubicon take off's as many of them already have been re-geared and upgraded and you can get a used set in the $2-4k range. Cheaper than a reagear and locker install.For your listed mods I would budget $10-12K

 

Thanks again for your help months ago with this. I put the following together to send to the shop to get an estimate. How does this sound? I don't want to miss anything, but I also don't want to get sold stuff I don't need either.

• Front and rear re-gear (4.88)
• Front & rear selectable locker
• Front (?) and Rear chromoly axle shafts
• Front & rear aftermarket driveshafts, swap pinion flange for a yoke

 

flanges are strong than yokes.

 

I a way, wouldn’t this be good to have instead? I’d rather replace a busted flange that a busted transfer case or diff gear.

The flange will act as a fuse in a way.

 

I would rather have a $20 u-joint in the drive shaft be the fuse vs a $65 yoke.

 

Fair enough 👍