Hey all,

I want to keep this as short as possible and I apologize if some of these topics have been touched on already in previous threads. FYI I have a 15' JKU Sahara with a roof top tent as my only significant added weight.

Basically I was told by another mechanic that there are some issues with my lift kit and also my tire selection. I have a metalcloak 2.5" dual rate lift kit and 35" KO2's.

In the pictures you can see my coil is fully depressed in the top zone, and this is the same on all coils. I understand how the dual rate coil works but I'm not sure if mine are not operating properly. The guy said that the coils should be replaced and he would've recommended a linear coil instead. I've only had the kit installed for about a year and a half. I just want to know what I'm talking about when I go back to the guy to talk about possible getting warranty on the coils.(I'm going there Wednesday to get a sway bar issue fixed lol)

The second thing is in regards to the tires I have. He seemed surprised that I got load range E tires, and he recommended LRC tires instead. I run my tires at like 26 psi and apparently that is way too low for the E tires I have. Do I need to run these tires at a higher psi? Are LRC tires a better choice?

He also commented on the metalcloak sway bar end links and how they appear to be too long. I'm just concerned that I have issues with this lift kit I paid good money for and also to have installed.

Any help is always appreciated!
Thanks

 

That is the way the coils are designed. When you flex the suspension, a tire drops down, and those stacked coils start separating. That means you can run longer shocks without the coils unseating. Stacked at ride height is totally as intended.

They have a bunch of info attached to the pages for the coils on their website, it might be worth a few minutes to browse it for a better understanding.
https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-c...ils-front.html

E rate tires are a bit stiff for a JK, but lots of folks run them. Do a chalk test and experiment a bit to get a better idea of what psi YOU should be running. Don't base it off of what psi anyone else runs.

You want the swaybar to be level to the ground, or angled slightly up - so the end connected to the link is higher, not lower! Swaybars angled down is bad, especially when you are running long travel shocks and coils designed for that extra downtravel!

(to help explain that - when the axle droops lower, it pulls the links and the swaybar down. With longer shocks (you have rocksports, correct?), links that are too short can actually allow the swaybar to flip around backwards --> then the weight of the jeep lands on top of it and starts bending things. There are plenty of pics floating around of links that were turned into pretzels due to this - even on a lift at the shop, not just offroad!! The moral of that story is that you do not want the swaybar angled down.


Personally, i would find a new shop long before I got rid of your current lift...


And, just in case the 'short-link' concept needed more reinforcement, a visual of a flipped swaybar I found on google images

 

nthinuf is on target. I would not put much weight in what that guy is telling you. That is how the coils are supposed to be. E-rated tires are going to have a stiffer sidewall but many people run them. Now, if you're complaining about your ride being harsh that would be the first thing to consider and moving down to a C rated tire, but in general there is nothing "wrong" with you running them. The front links do look a little long but we've not seen them connected (even in the last thread due to your issues), but the sway bar should be angled up just a touch as mentioned above. If the swaybar is typically angled like in that picture above, that is high. Kinda surprised those MC links are that long.

 

Yup, I knew right off when you titled your post JK “U” man it’s those extra two doors that throw it all out of wack, to even it out you gotta get rid of the back doors or fill it up with kids
😁

 

Well the thought of kids at 24 years old just don't sit right with me haha....so I guess I gotta start looking into selling for a 2dr.

 

I was randomly going through some Metalcloak instructions today looking for something and I noticed this page and immediately thought of this thread -



A couple thoughts. First, I think almost every one of us would say the links in that picture are too long and the sway bar is too high. Obvioulsy too high is better than too low, but still. That looks almost exactly as your picture (the links look to be adjusted as short as possible). I don't see how they could have intended that, but I guess that is what THEY deem acceptable. It just seems very strange to me. Second, in the "G/H" picture showing the link disconnected and "stored", I don't ever raise my sway bar like that. I did back when I first started and I found it to be a great way to stab my tire when it was stuffed in the wheel well. Granted, I have JKS links that leave a post there on the sway bar but still, my point is having the sway bar up like that causes a clearance issue in general. I've always left my sway bar in a flat/neutral position ever since.