PSC Ram Axle side mount question
Has anyone used the Metalcloak Drag Link Flip Bracket for the axle side mount for a PSC hydro ram? If not, would it be a feasible idea? I have not yet done the drag link flip kit and do not have a ram yet, but am trying to make logical choices for the future to try and save me from re-doing a lot of work. I am still waiting for my 37's to be delivered and am holding off on doing the drag link flip till after I have driven it around for a while with them on. Right now at 3.5" with the MC Gamechanger kit I am not getting any bump steer.
https://metalcloak.com/drag-link-fli...-wrangler.html
https://metalcloak.com/drag-link-fli...-wrangler.html
As long as your drag link and track bar are parallel to each other, you won’t get bump steer much at 3.5” lift. You’ll get more flex steer than anything. As for the MC bracket, I wouldn’t do that. Their setup is intended for a steering stabilizer and is not strong enough for a hydro ram. You could save the hassle and get an artec raised track bar mount and weld tabs onto that for the hydro ram. That’s what I did on mine. I did use the MC bushing for the steering flip though.
That is about the answer I expected so I'm not surprised. Not a big deal. Once I get my 37's on I'll see where things stand and what I need to do regarding the drag link flip and raising the track bar. I can't see the change in tire size making a big difference in the track bar and drag link getting out of parallel with each other so I'm definitely going to hold off on installing the MC kit that I have until then.
I just had it regeared from 3.73 to 5.13, "c"'s gusseted, the Adams 1350 f&r drive shafts installed and the Rare Parts ball joints installed while I was out of town. Just made sense to have all of that done at once. Next on the list when I go out of town again is the PSC Big Bore XDII steering box.
I just had it regeared from 3.73 to 5.13, "c"'s gusseted, the Adams 1350 f&r drive shafts installed and the Rare Parts ball joints installed while I was out of town. Just made sense to have all of that done at once. Next on the list when I go out of town again is the PSC Big Bore XDII steering box.
When you get ready to add hydro just weld on a nice 1/4" TB bracket (raised if you're flipping) and then weld the tabs for the hydro right to that. You're moving past the territory of bolt-on brackets IMO.
I'm really kinda hoping I don't need the DL flip. I'd like to not have to add 3" of bump stop to the right side if I don't have to.
. See how this fun starts to add up.I saw a pretty big difference with a DL flip on my 3.5" build. It's pretty hard to argue with flattening out those angles, but it's not the absolute end of the world if you don't.
Well, that is when you go notching your frame rail for clearance instead like sv_dude did in one of his threads
. See how this fun starts to add up.
I saw a pretty big difference with a DL flip on my 3.5" build. It's pretty hard to argue with flattening out those angles, but it's not the absolute end of the world if you don't.
. See how this fun starts to add up.I saw a pretty big difference with a DL flip on my 3.5" build. It's pretty hard to argue with flattening out those angles, but it's not the absolute end of the world if you don't.
Also, unless you play with shock mounting and shock size, you’ll probably max the limits of your shocks pretty quickly.
I’d love to get more travel by fabbing shock mounts to add taller shocks but then I’m opening a whole new can of worms with cutting plastic in the engine bay, ordering new springs that allow more droop, getting new limit straps, possibly ordering new hose to extend the steering ram lines, abs lines, brake lines, etc…








