I bought a used 2012 Jeep with an unknown lift on it. Rode like crap as it had no geometry correction, or so I thought. Cheap (non dual rate) springs and pro comp shocks, but looks to have an adjustable front track bar (Teraflex maybe?)

Anywho - bought a 3.5" Metalcloak Gamechanger kit. Rear sway bar to my surprise is a Rubicon express 3 position? https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/rubico.../R-BKTG-RE1700

Which hole should I use for "stock" sway bar position for the Metalcloak rear end links?

Thanks!

 

You can use either hole you want. The holes closest to the bar will essentially make the sway bar stiffer, further from the bar will make the sway bar softer. It just changes the leverage for the sway bar. I’d probably use the rear holes so the sway bar has more leverage to make the sway bar softer in a sense. Hopefully my translation here makes sense.

 

Agree, I'd use the hole closest to the end if possible. If you moved your rear axle back with adjustable arms, you may or may not have this option at the moment (links might be running at a forward angle vs up and down). Also, looks like that sway bar is 22mm vs. factory of 20mm, so a smidge more rigid already. Think about articulation while offroading as well. The more inboard from the end of the arm you mount the links the more you're going to start eating into some of your travel.

 

Thanks guys - I found the manufacturer install sheet and they recommend installing so that it sits roughly parallel to the ground at ride height. We'll see when I drop this thing.

 

That is adjusted by the length of the links, not the hood used for the sway bar. Be sure you check the upper and lower limits of suspension travel to be sure your links are really the right height. The bar being parallel may or may not be the right spot.

 

You might snap a couple pictures too. One thing to pay attention to when installing rear sway bar links is to watch your clearance with the hard brake lines that run along the frame rail. Sometimes bolts hanging in towards the frame can grab that hardline and bend it into a nice "V" (tire is stuffed up in wheel well and when it comes back down the bolt snags the hardline). I use big/thick zip ties (cheap at Walmart) to hold that hardline snug to the frame rail for just another smidge of clearance as I learned this lesson the hard way back in the day.