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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
Based on yesterday's post I think I might want to lower my JKU from a 6" to a 4" lift. Hoping someone can help me determine the parts that I need.
I recently installed a new adjustable top mount front track bar, drag link relocation bracket, adjustable drag link, tie rods and ends.
my current sway links are not adjustable. Not sure if my upper and lower control arms are adjustable. The 6" lift was done by the prior owner about 50k miles ago.
I know I will need new coils, bump stop extensions and shocks.
Will i need new control arms for dropping from a 6" to a 4"lift? New rear track bar? Sway bar links? Anything else you can think of that i might need? Thanks
I recently installed a new adjustable top mount front track bar, drag link relocation bracket, adjustable drag link, tie rods and ends.
my current sway links are not adjustable. Not sure if my upper and lower control arms are adjustable. The 6" lift was done by the prior owner about 50k miles ago.
.
Since you don't have a nice picture of the front end, can you confirm that you flipped your drag link to the top of the knuckle in the process of adding that relocation bracket (ie, you did a drag link flip/high steer kit).
Your front control arms appear to be short/mid adjustable arms (you can see the jam nut on the lowers and the side shot shows they are definitely not long arms). You could work around current components and swap springs and shocks as suggested in the other thread, or you can scrap everything and go with a full new kit as also suggested in the other thread. Don't focus on the stated lift height of the springs so much. Though the link Dirtman posted before is for 3.5", those MC springs are likely to put you higher. I wouldn't use more than a 3.5" spring myself. Anything you currently have that is adjustable would continue to work....control arms, track bar, drag link, etc.....if you wanted to continue working around them. You should really have adjustable sway bar links to make sure your sway bar is properly positioned. I have to think that at 6" you already have a raised TB bracket in the rear and an adjustable TB back there as well.
Since you don't have a nice picture of the front end, can you confirm that you flipped your drag link to the top of the knuckle in the process of adding that relocation bracket (ie, you did a drag link flip/high steer kit).
Your front control arms appear to be short/mid adjustable arms (you can see the jam nut on the lowers and the side shot shows they are definitely not long arms). You could work around current components and swap springs and shocks as suggested in the other thread, or you can scrap everything and go with a full new kit as also suggested in the other thread. Don't focus on the stated lift height of the springs so much. Though the link Dirtman posted before is for 3.5", those MC springs are likely to put you higher. I wouldn't use more than a 3.5" spring myself. Anything you currently have that is adjustable would continue to work....control arms, track bar, drag link, etc.....if you wanted to continue working around them. You should really have adjustable sway bar links to make sure your sway bar is properly positioned. I have to think that at 6" you already have a raised TB bracket in the rear and an adjustable TB back there as well.
Thanks for your detailed reply. You are correct that I did a drag link flip and it is now on the top of the knuckle. The drag link and track bar are at the same angle due to the bracket. Sounds like I should definitely get the adjustable sway bar links.
Do you think with a 3.5-4" lift the short/mid control arms will work well or should they be long arms? Also, sorry for the beginner questions, but why would the 3.5 coil likely put me higher? I just want to make sure I have enough clearance for 37" tires before I order the parts that I will need. The Q&A on this forum stated the a 4" lift is recommended for 37s, but this is all new to me. Thanks
Thanks for your detailed reply. You are correct that I did a drag link flip and it is now on the top of the knuckle. The drag link and track bar are at the same angle due to the bracket. Sounds like I should definitely get the adjustable sway bar links.
Do you think with a 3.5-4" lift the short/mid control arms will work well or should they be long arms? Also, sorry for the beginner questions, but why would the 3.5 coil likely put me higher? I just want to make sure I have enough clearance for 37" tires before I order the parts that I will need. The Q&A on this forum stated the a 4" lift is recommended for 37s, but this is all new to me. Thanks
There are many variables that differ from jeep to jeep depending on weight of mods. Some springs/lifts, like the Metalcloaks previously suggested, are rated for fully armored rigs. Based on your narrow/light fenders, plastic rear bumper and mid-width front, your jeep would likely see more than 3.5" of lift with those springs. This is a pretty common thing. Given you have flat fenders, 3.5" lift will be plenty to run 37s. I believe that Q&A you reference is likely suggesting 4" if sticking with factory flares. I've run 3.5" springs with my 37s for years and it's plenty.
I'm not going to tell you to buy an entire new lift or build around your current components, that is up to you. Mid-arms are fine though for 3.5" lift. That 6" lift you currently have really should be a long arm setup. Take a second and just think about the angles at which your front control arms are running -
That is a crude sketch but you'll get the idea. That green line is closer to what a lower control arm is on a stock vehicle....pretty flat. The blue would be a long arm which would help keep the angle as flat as possible with that much lift. The red is your current control arm. So sure, those adjustable arms are able to help set caster on that factory axle best they can, but the angles they are setting are far from optimal, and if you don't think that is having any impact on your ride then you need to think about it more. Coming down a few inches in height is going to ease that angle a bit. They'll still be at a sharper angle than with a long arm set up, but they will still be fine. Many of us run 3.5" lifts on adjustable short/mid arms.
Don't think that just deciding to slap a long arm kit on there is going to solve all your issues. As TheDirtman can expand on, there aren't any perfect long arm kits on the market....they all have their own issues.
There are many variables that differ from jeep to jeep depending on weight of mods. Some springs/lifts, like the Metalcloaks previously suggested, are rated for fully armored rigs. Based on your narrow/light fenders, plastic rear bumper and mid-width front, your jeep would likely see more than 3.5" of lift with those springs. This is a pretty common thing. Given you have flat fenders, 3.5" lift will be plenty to run 37s. I believe that Q&A you reference is likely suggesting 4" if sticking with factory flares. I've run 3.5" springs with my 37s for years and it's plenty.
I'm not going to tell you to buy an entire new lift or build around your current components, that is up to you. Mid-arms are fine though for 3.5" lift. That 6" lift you currently have really should be a long arm setup. Take a second and just think about the angles at which your front control arms are running -
That is a crude sketch but you'll get the idea. That green line is closer to what a lower control arm is on a stock vehicle....pretty flat. The blue would be a long arm which would help keep the angle as flat as possible with that much lift. The red is your current control arm. So sure, those adjustable arms are able to help set caster on that factory axle best they can, but the angles they are setting are far from optimal, and if you don't think that is having any impact on your ride then you need to think about it more. Coming down a few inches in height is going to ease that angle a bit. They'll still be at a sharper angle than with a long arm set up, but they will still be fine. Many of us run 3.5" lifts on adjustable short/mid arms.
Don't think that just deciding to slap a long arm kit on there is going to solve all your issues. As TheDirtman can expand on, there aren't any perfect long arm kits on the market....they all have their own issues.
Thanks for the detailed reply about the control arms. That definitely makes sense. Also, thanks for go over the springs question. Sounds like I'll be just fine running 3.5. I did just add an aftermarket rear bumper and soundskins to my interior (under 200 lbs total) but I don't have any additional mods that should add additional weight.