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2010 JKU 6 speed manual keeps “blowing out” clutch slave cylinders

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Old Dec 31, 2021 | 06:12 PM
  #1  
Kodiak Ruby's Avatar
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From: Kodiak Ak
Default 2010 JKU 6 speed manual keeps “blowing out” clutch slave cylinders

Hey fist post here! I sure hope others have experienced this. My 2010 Ruby has 50k miles on her. It’s been shifting fine No TOB noise etc. I went to push in the clutch and felt a pop then no pressure.
Fluid dripping from the bellhousing. I have changed the slave cylinder 2 times and the clutch master cylinder once and it still blew a new slave cyl. I have found only 1 thread on this forum with exactly the same issue but changing the master fixed his, not mine. I don’t really see how it fixed his, It seems to me the master can only push a specific amount of fluid which moves the slave arm the prescribed distance to actuate the clutch. Therefore the only thing that could allow the arm to overextend would be a bent clutch fork, bad TOB or worn clutch? But I had no symptoms of any of these. It just worked great then didn’t. I sure hope someone has seen this before. I sure don’t want to drop the trans I’m too old for that! Please help before I shell out the big $$$ to have someone do it. Thanks

Last edited by Kodiak Ruby; Dec 31, 2021 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 09:42 AM
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HI and I think, unfortunately, you are on the correct diagnostic path when you suspect something is mechanically wrong in the clutch mechanisms. I do not recall reading another post on your slave cylinder failures. Dropping the trans is IMO a 1/2 day job with a lift.. me personally would not attempt on jack stands; it could be done but at my point in life I'd find away to pay a good shop. Good Luck and keep the forum updated on the resolution.
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Old Jul 7, 2022 | 10:28 AM
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From: BotkIns Ohio
Default Clutch slave, oil from bell housing

We had the same problem (oil running out of bell housing [bh]) from replacing slave cylinder for clutch [sc] the first instillation! So perplexing! We finally called the sc mfg and the guy was very helpful and knowledgeable.
1-I removed the plastic guard thinking it was part of the sc shipping package (to keep the ram short), nope, it was to be left on (this was not in the directions).
2-Any deviation of the ram being perfectly straight pre to post instillation pretty much ruins the gasket (we tore it apart to find out if he was right and yup- it’s a simple “squeegee” like seal and seeing how I tilted the ram installing it , the seal had a tiny imperfection allowing fluid to pass through the sc cylinder into the bh , which meant the sc was junk) ugh.
3- Any over extension of the ram allows the brake fluid to flow past the seal (and run out of the big), which he said might come from a bad throw-out bearing/ clutch problem or not fitting the ball in the socket correctly.
3-One is not to bleed the sc like brakes (build pressure and crack bleeder). It has to be: 1 pump/bleed/pump/bleed etc
So all-in-all it was a simple job turned in to a learning experience…. a frustrating one at that.
We also had problems with the sc fluid line hook- up but I think we didn’t install that little rubber gasket correctly. It’s not symmetrical and there was no direction on which way it was to be installed.
I’m no mechanic although I’ve done my share of tinkering, and with my 2007 JK having 107k miles on it, I’m just taking it in so they can check out the throw bearing/clutch instead of aggravating myself more. I tried, I didn’t fail, I just decided to let experience guide my decision to take it in.
jknewbie- did you resolve your problem? How?

Last edited by Yahble; Jul 7, 2022 at 10:50 AM.
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