I'm considering buying an older (07-10ish) JK for a project/3rd vehicle. I'm aware of the issues with the 3.8 and have driven/know people who own jeeps with both the 3.8 and 3.6. My question is if you were in the same position, what would you do? First and easiest choice is to buy a used one ready to go with ~150K miles, second is to buy one with >200k miles and plan to swap the engine (most likely reman/rebuilt long block 3.8 or something), or possibly buy something with minor damage from copart and fix it. Mechanical skills and tool/equipment is not an issue, I've been building rigs and offroading for years. The goal is to get the best value and avoid inflated prices of the newer stuff. The older jk's haven't really changed in price much.

 

I think I would opt to something from copart and go that route. I think you're going to get a better value that way and then there are all sorts of options on how you rebuild body/axles/suspension.

 

I like the 3.8L, 170K on mine and it's great. I'd look for one that's only had one or two owners, looks like it's had regular oil changes, maybe kept in a garage, and generally been taken care of. >200K miles will keep the price lower, but I'd keep the engine rather than replace -- especially if it sounds like mostly highway miles. Another plus that would lower the price is something significant is broke with an otherwise taken care of jeep, take your scanner with you...

I've had some pretty bad luck picking fixer-upper cars when I was young, but one lesson learned was to trust my instincts about whether it was a nightmare of abuse and dodgy repairs, or was a decent buy that just needed a repair or two.

 

I have had no problems with the 3.8 or my wife's 3.6. I have never used Copart.

 

There is nothing wrong with the 3.8. I would rather have it over the 3.6 with all the issues that motor has had. That being said the automatic transmission was the real reason the 3.8 got so much hate. If swapping motors I would go LS or Cummins 2.8 crate. Considering the latter on my 07. You will be shocked at what a wrecked jeep brings at auctions. You are better off to just find a good used jeep. Electrical issues are rampant in jeeps and the older they are, the more they have. I hate the canbus. By far the cheapest route is to buy one already built as you get killed on aftermarket parts. Figure about .10 on the dollar for returns on mods. Hard part is find a built jeep that is done right. So many people build for the look and use a bunch of bolt on crap that they can save on labor. I jsut had a customer come in with a rubicon he just bought with a 4" rubicon express lift that rode like crap. Front driveshaft was shot from the angle, steering box was leaking, camb bolts used for caster correction, cheap steel wheels with wrong back spacing, E rated tires, badland winch that he just broke the line on, light thin sliders that bolted to the body mounts that you can flex by hand and get them to contact the body. The rear bump stop pad on the axle hit the bolt on the frame side track bar and the rear sway bar link had hit and kinked the factory hard brake line because they used cheap extensions. I installed a drag link flip high steer kit, new 3.5" metal cloak coils and shocks, new lower axle control arm mounts, newe front driveshaft, trimmed the rear bump pad, fixed the brake line. that bill was just over $3k. He already installed new ball joints, had new MOOG tie rod and drag link at a shop in Cali after having death wobble. He got a good deal on a decent looking jeep but already has about $6k fixing stuff on the jeep. It adds up quick. If buying a jeep with 150,000-200,000 miles plan on replacing the entire suspension, drivelines, steering, axle seals, unit bearings, and ball joints. Figure all that cost as well and you might just be better off buying a new/newer jeep.

 

I'm finding a decent amount of Jeeps in my area with ~140K-150K for $13K-$15K and am looking strongly at this option. Most of them really look pretty good/clean and are basically stock or maybe have a different front bumper or some wheels. Pretty much planning on replacing/upgrading all that stuff you mentioned that I highlighted, no big deal. Maybe even putting a PR44 in up front if I get the right Jeep deal. Again I do all my own work and this won't be my primary DD. Does this sound like a reasonable approach and are those prices sensible?

 

Those prices are pretty typical. I would go for a 6 speed and avoid the auto as the performance really sucks. I would not waste the money on a PR44. Once you decide what you want the build to be then get the proper axle for that application. What are your build plans?

 

First person I've ever heard say a PR44 would be a waste of money. Most likely only be running 35s then maybe 37s once I get everything else to support them. This is not going to be a crazy build on 40s and tons. Like you said, proper axle for application, I think most people would agree a PR44 (or g2 or whatever) is perfect for up to 37s. Was also heavily leaning to auto as my wife will need to be able to drive this, although I'm sure she could drive a manual. But also my experience has lead me to believe that autos are much friendlier on obstacles and rocks for the most part. I thought the jk manuals were weak?

 

The jeep 6 speed manual is a good transmission. You just don't see many of them. As far as on the trail, proper gearing is key. The dana 44 was built to handle 35" tires, the PR44 is still a dana 44. Perfect for up to 37's? Sorry no. Running 37's is hit and miss on a 44. Depends on what you do with it. Running 37's on a factory width axle is also a bad decision to make, more stress on everything and you still have the weak factory brakes. Buy a PR44 build it and add a big brake kit and you will be in dana 60 range and have a weak point in the ring and pinion. For 37's I would run the fusion 4x4 hybrid 44/60 package if you are on a budget in a 68-70" width range. Much better axle combo but with the drawback of factory unit bearing/brakes and a rear semi float. If budget is not an issue just go right to tons. $25-30 would be a good budget for 37" on tons. The hybrid axles will save you around $7k over true 60's. Otherwise just buy a rubicon and 35's, 4.88 gears, with a good 2.5" lift and you will be in it for $10-$15 on parts depending on what you choose.

 

Well I looked at a few local jks today and was surprised at how rusty they were. I thought they handled salt and rust better. Not sure what to do now. I guess try to find a southern one somehow?