MetalCloak 2.5 on a rubicon, sway bar and other questions
Hello folks.
Planning to go with a metalcloak 2.5 lift for a 2016 2 door rubicon.
Metalcloak said the 4.75 BS procomps I'm using will not be adequate and could damage the sidewall on the sway bar links. They said I can not run them on the inboard side.
I was able to locate a couple threads on this, but only one that seems relevant. It seemed he was running the JKS links on a rubicon but the thread ended before I was 100% sure it would work.
What are my options?
Can I run JKS quick disconnects instead and just manually disconnect them, and move the sway bar links out of the way?
-If so, what model would you suggest for the rubicon w/ 2.5? I see some that disconnect both the top and the bottom.
I can certainly replace the wheels and tires and give them to my wife. That would likely be the easiest option.
I don’t want to run spacers, I used to on the TJ for years and they were fine but I don’t want to use them again.
I don’t want to use the drop brackets for the sway bar.
Thoughts?
Planning to go with a metalcloak 2.5 lift for a 2016 2 door rubicon.
Metalcloak said the 4.75 BS procomps I'm using will not be adequate and could damage the sidewall on the sway bar links. They said I can not run them on the inboard side.
I was able to locate a couple threads on this, but only one that seems relevant. It seemed he was running the JKS links on a rubicon but the thread ended before I was 100% sure it would work.
What are my options?
Can I run JKS quick disconnects instead and just manually disconnect them, and move the sway bar links out of the way?
-If so, what model would you suggest for the rubicon w/ 2.5? I see some that disconnect both the top and the bottom.
I can certainly replace the wheels and tires and give them to my wife. That would likely be the easiest option.
I don’t want to run spacers, I used to on the TJ for years and they were fine but I don’t want to use them again.
I don’t want to use the drop brackets for the sway bar.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Zoidberg; Mar 22, 2022 at 07:43 AM.
I’m shooting for 4.5 BS/-12mm offset. I doubt I’ll be going to 37’s any time soon so I’m not considering 3.5-4 backspacing at the moment, and looking for 4.25-4.5.
Then I was looking at wheels that come with a rock guard, as I like the look and the perceived lip and rim protection. I was researching which rock guard wheels actually strengthen the rim of the wheel, as it seems many say a lot of them don’t. I haven’t trashed a wheel off-road yet but I’ve definitely gouged them before, and since I run aluminum wheels, I liked the idea of the rock guard just as an extra layer of protection.
I then stumbled across Dirty Life DT-2’s and really was liking them, a bead lock that can be run in a conventional mount, or you can get a bead lock ring and convert them to a bead lock (comes with a plastic rock guard) which actually seemed perfect, as it gives me the ability to run them as bead locks, or not. Obviously that would be a hassle to break the bead and switch it, and it would be easier to just get another set to run as bead locks.
Mopar also makes a simialr set, but the bolts are exposed and the back spacing is almost 5 for the ones I saw.
However the dirty life and mopar bead lock “capable” wheels, and other bead locks I looked at are 36-45 pounds.
my procomps, and the Mickey thompsons are 24 or so.
In the search for a lighter wheel I was at method’s bead grip wheels, but they didn’t have a 4.5 backspacing 17x9, they did have a 4.5 16x8. But I don’t want to deal with that. However they were 17 19 pounds supposedly (I’m bad with precise recollection haha)
So I will likely go with the Mickey Thompson, as they are 4.53 backspacing, which metalclaok said will clear and the .03 doesn’t matter (I’d have been shocked if they said it would be an issue)
I usually prefer bland, and fairly boring wheels. Not really into super intricate ones.
Last edited by Zoidberg; Mar 23, 2022 at 02:07 PM.


