2011- JKU Sahara 3.8 manual
Ok, the information all says that there is supposed to be a switch that slides onto the clutch pedal shaft just inside the firewall.

problem is, there does not seem to be one in my Jeep!
The Jeep will not start without the clutch depressed so is there a different setup on some Jeeps ?
Had a car once that was later in the year production model and for some reason the hole in the center of the clutch plate was a different diameter. Now THAT caused some issues until some old guy, a customer at the part store mentioned that I might want to check that out !
So is this the same scenario. "oh yeah, they all have it, except yours's that was made on a Tuesday "
Any input would be appreciated.
Already put in new battery and replaced engine block ground as the strap was in pieces.

 

This is from the parts manual for my 2007. And a clutch master cylinder I need to install (mine is squeaking up a storm) ...

 

Thank you very much. Solved the issue of the "missing" clutch lock out switch.
Because I could not find the lock out switch, I pursued trouble shooting that I could handle, just as well.
Process of elimination led me to have the battery more seriously tested than just a volt meter across the terminals. Turns out that for some weird reason, the battery would read 12.6 volts charge but had NO amperage reserve. So it would just about turn over the starter first attempt, but not enough to start her up, then just click on the second or third BUT bizarrely still show over 12 volts on multimeter.
Anyway, new battery and 4 weeks of aggravation have evaporated.
Now I have good battery, replaced engine block ground while I was at it and you solved my switch location issue
Live and learn

 

turns out after all my hypothesising that she needed a new battery.
Battery was very sneaky and malicious, it test 12.3 or more volts on various multimeters so I ruled it out to start with.
Frustrated, I eventually ended up at dealership and as a standard "customer complains of electrical issues" they performed a serious battery test that involved hooking up the battery to a tester that cycled through various scenarios over 24 hours.
Turned out that the battery would hold over 12 volts but hardly any amp reserve. Cursory checks showed over 12 volts, you assume battery is good NOT always true.
They did not have a beefier battery in stock so I put my own yellow top Optima in and have had no problems since
Took a long time to figure out but got there in the end
moral of the story, never trust the battery !