So after researching issues with my lift, I decided to join the family here on the JK Forum. I realize there are numerous posts with the same issue, so I’ll try and make it simple….

2015 JK Rubicon Unlimited
Added: RC 4” lift & Steering Stabilizer
Replaced upper/lower ball joints,(upper offset @ .5),
drag link, tie rod ends & adjustable lower control arms. New Venom Power 35’s on my 20” wheels, all the way around. The best alignment guy in NE Georgia puts my castor @ 5 degrees, tow, etc on point.(can’t remember exact numbers, but well within spec).
Chalk tested-PSI currently at 26 psi all around.

Guys…this gorgeous rig drives like absolute garbage! She’ll jerk you around the road like a red-headed ex-girlfriend! Hit a bump and she corrects it spot on; I expect that lingo. But while driving, speed irrelevant, she’ll jerk the wheel out of your hand just to make sure you’re still there. It feels incredibly dangerous.
Yes, I’m a noob….I just want her to drive decent. No wobble whatsoever when you head down the road. Doesn’t feel like “body-roll” to me.
My shop mechanic feels like the lift itself is bad.
RC is sending me a new kit.
Any ideas? I realize this is a repeated post but I’ve really tried to narrow it down here.
I’ll be glad to keep this post updated. I have photos on photos of the upgrades; I’ll try and keep them fresh.
Thanks in advance!

 

I could write a dissertation but I'm tired and feeling less than 100% so I'll sum it up in 2 words.......Drop Pitman. It's a terrible way to go on a wrangler. The dual stabilizer isn't the issue, but most of us would advise against it. That is simply not a solution to firming up the steering IMO.

 

So your suggestion is returning to factory arm?
or is the “drag link flip” the solution?
I’ve seen both suggestions; I dont fully understand the later.

 

Ideally you keep frame-side mounts as high as possible and you raise the axle-side. When you lower the frame-side it starts affecting your roll center and that is when you start feeling the things you currently are. That is really why MOST of these issues revolved around that damn RC lift cuz they are notorious for using a drop pitman. A drop pitman is pretty common to see on lifted pickups and that is also where RC is popular or commonly pushed by local stores. Unfortunately it doesn't translate well to the wrangler platform. Given the lift height, you definitely benefit from a "high-steer kit", but the preferred thing is to flip the drag link to the top side of the knuckle and keep the frame side with the factory pitman arm. That does require you to have a new DL that can be mounted in that orientation. The TB should be raised at the axle-side as well so that the TB and DL remain parallel. I cannot tell from pictures above if the axle-side is raised or if the frame-side TB mount is lowered. I think your axle-side is raised.

In regard to my SS comment, you really just don't want a powerful SS there. In fact, you really shouldn't NEED anything. When the jeep has a problem (loose bolt, bad joint, etc) it has an uncanny way of signaling there's an issue that you should be looking at and addressing. Ignore these signals and the problems only compound. The issue with having a strong SS, or a dual SS, is that they are just masking anything your jeep is trying to relay to you. It's always better to know something is wrong as soon as it is than to keep on driving and not be aware. These things don't tend to remedy themselves .

 

With a 4" lift and non adjustable control arms how was your alignment guy able to squeeze 5 degrees of caster ? also, one picture (might be the angle of the shot) shows the front lower control arm to be close to contacting the upper portion of the control arm mount as the vehicle sits on the ground, not good.. The sway bar angles look very severe, those cannot be extended length sway bar links. If it were mine I would raise the rear trac bar to the upper most hole on the axle side bracket to provide a flatter trac bar and better roll center. Why would RC send a new 4" lift? what are they thinking is wrong with the old one ? seems to me will be same issues...

 

One last thing.....that front DS won't last long at that height. Budget for a new DS. The boot by the TC will rip and spew grease, the CV joint will then dry out and start clickin'. The angle is just too steep and that is what happens. Watch for sign of that.....a line of grease on the underside of the tub right above the joint. That is the queue to speed up purchase of a replacement.

 

XJ I believe the CAs on the front are adjustable but the caster looks weird by just looking at the angle of the pinion flange. Could be too much +. I agree with you on the bracket at the diff end looks like it will bind on almost any droop. Also the OP is at risk of sway bar flip on the rear with axle droop. Need longer links or lower the sway bar with brackets. It might be me but why does that FE picture show one wheel to the left and one pointing to the right? Also the OP should check for diff centered front and rear. But agree with all that the drop PA needs to go and at 4" he probably needs a DL flip system and new adjustable TB with axle side raise bracket. Oh the problems with lifting coil spring vehicles. It was so easy with leafs.

 

I am pretty sure those pictures in which you guys think the sway bar links are way too short is cuz the jeep is up in the air on a lift. Could be wrong, but that is how I see it.

***NM, dumb comment. I see the kinda lift it's on and the axle is not drooped. How could those links be so short? Seems absurd.