Hi folks, im back.

Im working on rubi-fying my sport and i got a d44 front housing sitting in my garage. I also have a moto truss and barnes sleeves and gussetts. My next purchases for it are eaton elocker and RCV axles. I will also need gears, knuckles and ball joints.

Current plan is to run 38s, but i have seen people run 40s on similar setups and given that I have a 2 door that could be an option as well. I have considered tons, but its not really an option right now due to my suspension budget and limited garage space.

Where I need input - few things, im paranoid of fucking up the sleeve install, is there anything to watch out for? Like making sure its not sticking out anywhere? Or are they just a perfect length match and if you line them up there is no issue?

Another question- there are alot of RCV axles and frankly im not sure which one to buy. Im assuming its the 35 spline for d44 but they have a few options. Im assuming I just match the 35 spline RCV with d44 eaton elocker and it will fit? Currently planning on MC baller joints. Not sure on knuckles (if i need to get high lift or not)

Current rear axle plans are to get chromo shafts and either a ruby locker takeoff or throw another eaton in there, which will take a bit longer to afford, and truss it. It may need sleeves as well. Not sure if it would be worth trying to source a takeoff read rubi 44, but ive seen a few pop up on marketplace and that may be an option.

Would love any guidance or input. Thanks!

 

May I inquire what the housing cost you? I did this myself years ago and I'm really conflicted with my commentary about the whole thing.

Suggestion - Chop off those factory lower control arm mounts and weld on good brackets. Chop off the factory shock mounts and install good brackets and outboard them as much as possible. The issue doing that is gussets will get in the way so you can only outboard them a little and might still benefit from outboarding brackets depending on your lift and articulation. Doing this will never be easier than it is right now with the housing on a bench.

I wouldn't not put a factory rubi axle in the rear. First, those lockers in the rear ain't great, and when they fail you're going to have a rude awakening about your replacement options with that and your 32-spline shafts. You're better off building a non-rubi rear axle with a good 35-spline locker and shafts.

Have you spoken to the folks at RCV? I think I'd want to call them and say "I have a JK Rubicon front axle, I'm putting in XXXXX 35-spline front locker, and need to know which shafts to order". I see they have a couple non-factory carrier alternatives, one of which specifically looks like it's for an ARB locker. I think the real tricky part is modified lengths for non-factory carriers. I couldn't say that an Eaton e-locker is going to need the same modified length or not. I'd think they should be able to tell you though. You might call them before making some decision about front locker. I can tell you it's damn nice having RCVs up front out on technical trails!

I can't help with sleeve install. I've never had great opinions about those. I have very mixed opinions about trusses.

 

The housing ran me $300. Was being replaced for a crate axle. I think? Its a good deal.

Good call on updating the mounts. I did not consider that.

And 35 spline everything makes sense. Though it would be a longer stretch. But that is ok.

I'm also having trouble finding Eaton Elocker for D44 Rubicon that's 35 Spline. Looks like there are 35 splines for JL housing, but I don't see one for JK housing. Is it the same locker? I found Auburn selectable elocker for D44 with 35 spline, but not eaton.

 

I used the Barnes sleeves on my dana 30 (waste of time, maybe - I think it cheap insurance) installation very straight forward, hardest part making sure tube was clean. Sleeve Installed flush to the C's. Plug welded in a few spots. Gusseted the C's also.

 

It has been a LOOOOONNNNGGGG time since I looked at complete axles and prices. I just went to Northridge to build out what an assembled DT PR44 unlimited runs these days. Holy effing canole (just showing the gears there cuz that is the last option to select on the build) -



That doesn't even include the $500+ Reid knuckles. I can't believe that PR44 is $8k+ these days. Maybe i need to sell my axles and revert back to stock!!! Could be time to cash out of this game. I am into my PR44 unlimited front with spyntec free-spin hub conversion, full float rear PR60, and 5 ATX Chamber Pro II beadlocks married to these axles for $5500. I can't afford this game anymore should something ever happen .

 

Yup. Fusion is priced similar. Thats why im building hahahah

 

Back in the day I spelled out what it cost me to build a rubi axle with pretty much doing all the labor vs. paying for an aftermarket. At that time the difference was not all that great and at the end of the day the 4.2 degrees caster in the factory axle would always be something to work around. The extra money to get additional caster in addition to really thick tubes was marginal at the end of the day. Those days have certainly changed now though. Really crazy what things cost now.

Well, if I were doing it again I'd seriously outboard those shock mounts. You'll be limited with the space due to the gussets on the bottom of the C, but what you might do is get those gussets on and evaluate options.....even if that maybe means notching and using part of the gusset to weld to. IDK, just thinking out loud really. Maybe it was just me and my setup. I ran long travel shocks for max articulation. I had outboard brackets on the factory shock mounts which flipped the orientation of how the shock mounted. I had to run those brackets otherwise the shock would rub the frame rail. Issue was then that at max droop, I ended up twisting that dang factory shock mount. That lead to me chopping them off an installing 1/4" brackets. Anyhow.....that is kinda a long story that might not even be relevant to your situation, but it's certainly something to contemplate before the welder gets cranked up. I had a rough road along my build and if anyone can learn from my mistakes or mishaps then more power to em. I should have been running limiting straps obviously.

 

FYI - I just bought

Reinforced Front Axle Housing for 2016 Jeep Wrangler

item # 79944942847701680

to replace a Ultimate Dana 44 I had in my 2016 JK. I'm very impressed w/ the size. It's like a Dana 60 - 3" tube and the C Knuckles are huge. I'll post some pics w/ the exact sizes- the website I bought from didn't have good specs. I couldn't find anything about this axle from A1 but this is much nicer than my UD Dana44 (I bent the tubing on that one so replacing w/ this one). To be fair, I haven't finished this yet - I'll provide an update once I have the 5.13's installed and the RCV axles.

 

That looks like a very interesting axle housing there. The brackets look pretty beefy. From a housing perspective, much better than building a rubi44, though the downside would be additional cost/labor to install the carrier and re-shim the pinion and carrier as necessary. Not a big deal for some but an additional cost for others.

Surprising that they don't have many details on their site about that axle. Simple things like thickness of brackets, having raised TB bracket options, degree of caster built in, etc.