who here has actually used a hi-lift as a winch
JK Newbie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Concrete Jungle, NYC
several times. A couple notes:
a) use a high quality, high test chain. the common application here is a Grade 70, 3/8" link, 20-foot length chain. Expect to pay around $100. Buy your own chain new and pay real money for it. Do NOT RELY on a second hand chain. Your safety is not worth a few bucks!! A sturdy canvas bag or a five gallon bucket that's been chopped in half height-wise work great for storage. Be sure to spray it down after using it and let it air dry then seal it back up in it's case.
b) Get a Jack-mate. These have a slot built into the end of them designed to fit and secure a 3/8's chain link. After making a pull, it's very easy to just shorten up the chain by threading it back through the slot to the next link. Having to re-rig a bolt on the end will add the proverbial "day" to "forever" for this task.
c) Use a tree-strap and anchor off just as you would a regular winch. Don't wrap a cable or another chain around your anchor point.
d) Rig the jack nearest the anchor point, not the vehicle. This is important for your safety. Do not risk the rig bouncing free a few feet while you're kneeling down giving the handle all your worth! Attach the base of the jack to the anchor point, and point the jack-mate toward the vehicle, allowing you to work the chain as efficiently as possible.
e) Repeated experiments to use synthetic line have not been successful. you can go there if you want. I'm here to say after years of trying it's not worth the hassle, no matter how fancy the knots are. The synthetics do not "stretch" per se, but the do get longer some how with tension. On a regular 48" Hi-lift, once you get enough tension on the line to pull, you might have 1/4 of the run left on the jack. As the line gets tension its diameter decreases, which lengthens the rope. It's not "stretch" technically. I elaborate on this because it always incites rebuttals and arm-chair arguments
f) This is highly strenuous work, and is SLOW. Have reasonable expectations about what you'll be able to do with this setup. You are not going to hand-winch a 4k lb vehicle out of the rocks or bottomless mud. This method of recovery works best for a light high-center or for when you can almost get yourself clear with throttle but not quite.
g) It is dangerous work: as the chain gets tension on the line and the jack is stretched out, the handle is a veritable weapon. keep your face clear of the handle's path at all times. If you can have a helper steady the base of the jack behind you to keep it still that will be a big help. If you're pulling like hell and for some reason the handle decides to pop back a notch, or if you don't make it and it slips, remember there's a lot of force there that can take you out. Lost eyes and cracked skulls are not that uncommon. This applies to jacking as well.
h) Don't expect to get very far. This is good if the recovery distance is under 10 feet. Longer than that and expect several hours and lots of breathers. Drink LOTS of water.
i) You did remember to bring reserve water, didn't you? To hell with a couple water bottles - either have a 20L jerry can of fresh, potable water, or just get a 2.5 gallon from the grocery store to have if you get caught in a fix and need to work for a few hours. Water and a quick snack (I always carry a few power bars in the dash) are mandatory items in your recovery kit. Do not leave home without them!
Having a manually operated winch is great as a backup. There are two alternatives you should know about.
1) Black-Rat cable winch. This is similar to a come-along but is way more sturdy. It operates by grasping a steel cable through a track in the device. After each pull, it slides along the length of cable and grabs a new stretch for the pull. These are strudy and field proven the world over.
2) The Wyeth-Scott More Power Puller. This is the best designed and constructed hand-winch on the market in my opinion. I've used one of these babies on several occasions and am always impressed. They are rugged and built to last. The company is great to deal with and everything is made in the USA.
http://www.wyeth-scott.com/
Hopefully this gives the reader some practical advice about the safe usage of a hi-lift as a winch. A hi-lift is a great accessory and can be useful for many jobs. It simply demands respect and careful attention during use. Using one of these alternate winches as a manual recovery device saves a lot in terms of setup and is more practical for the job.
Be careful out there.
cheers
-ike
a) use a high quality, high test chain. the common application here is a Grade 70, 3/8" link, 20-foot length chain. Expect to pay around $100. Buy your own chain new and pay real money for it. Do NOT RELY on a second hand chain. Your safety is not worth a few bucks!! A sturdy canvas bag or a five gallon bucket that's been chopped in half height-wise work great for storage. Be sure to spray it down after using it and let it air dry then seal it back up in it's case.
b) Get a Jack-mate. These have a slot built into the end of them designed to fit and secure a 3/8's chain link. After making a pull, it's very easy to just shorten up the chain by threading it back through the slot to the next link. Having to re-rig a bolt on the end will add the proverbial "day" to "forever" for this task.
c) Use a tree-strap and anchor off just as you would a regular winch. Don't wrap a cable or another chain around your anchor point.
d) Rig the jack nearest the anchor point, not the vehicle. This is important for your safety. Do not risk the rig bouncing free a few feet while you're kneeling down giving the handle all your worth! Attach the base of the jack to the anchor point, and point the jack-mate toward the vehicle, allowing you to work the chain as efficiently as possible.
e) Repeated experiments to use synthetic line have not been successful. you can go there if you want. I'm here to say after years of trying it's not worth the hassle, no matter how fancy the knots are. The synthetics do not "stretch" per se, but the do get longer some how with tension. On a regular 48" Hi-lift, once you get enough tension on the line to pull, you might have 1/4 of the run left on the jack. As the line gets tension its diameter decreases, which lengthens the rope. It's not "stretch" technically. I elaborate on this because it always incites rebuttals and arm-chair arguments
f) This is highly strenuous work, and is SLOW. Have reasonable expectations about what you'll be able to do with this setup. You are not going to hand-winch a 4k lb vehicle out of the rocks or bottomless mud. This method of recovery works best for a light high-center or for when you can almost get yourself clear with throttle but not quite.
g) It is dangerous work: as the chain gets tension on the line and the jack is stretched out, the handle is a veritable weapon. keep your face clear of the handle's path at all times. If you can have a helper steady the base of the jack behind you to keep it still that will be a big help. If you're pulling like hell and for some reason the handle decides to pop back a notch, or if you don't make it and it slips, remember there's a lot of force there that can take you out. Lost eyes and cracked skulls are not that uncommon. This applies to jacking as well.
h) Don't expect to get very far. This is good if the recovery distance is under 10 feet. Longer than that and expect several hours and lots of breathers. Drink LOTS of water.
i) You did remember to bring reserve water, didn't you? To hell with a couple water bottles - either have a 20L jerry can of fresh, potable water, or just get a 2.5 gallon from the grocery store to have if you get caught in a fix and need to work for a few hours. Water and a quick snack (I always carry a few power bars in the dash) are mandatory items in your recovery kit. Do not leave home without them!
Having a manually operated winch is great as a backup. There are two alternatives you should know about.
1) Black-Rat cable winch. This is similar to a come-along but is way more sturdy. It operates by grasping a steel cable through a track in the device. After each pull, it slides along the length of cable and grabs a new stretch for the pull. These are strudy and field proven the world over.
2) The Wyeth-Scott More Power Puller. This is the best designed and constructed hand-winch on the market in my opinion. I've used one of these babies on several occasions and am always impressed. They are rugged and built to last. The company is great to deal with and everything is made in the USA.
http://www.wyeth-scott.com/
Hopefully this gives the reader some practical advice about the safe usage of a hi-lift as a winch. A hi-lift is a great accessory and can be useful for many jobs. It simply demands respect and careful attention during use. Using one of these alternate winches as a manual recovery device saves a lot in terms of setup and is more practical for the job.
Be careful out there.
cheers
-ike
Last edited by HappyCurmudgeon; Jul 9, 2008 at 09:40 AM. Reason: removed hyperlink
JK Freak
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
From: Brownsboro TX
Ike, nice write up! I have never used a hi lift, but have used a come along to pull out a 1 ton crew cab diesel ford, and I know that you have actually pulled stuff out this way because of your reference to water and snacks and several hours!
It took about 3 hours to get it out, those "lockers" in the front of fords are really lockers, but there is a throw out mechanism that releases the locker if the torque bias is too much, giving you an open front diff and lsd rear. That was our problem, the right side of the truck was sunk, the left side was on solid ground, so frustrating, but neither the lsd or the "locker" (wink wink,) could pull the truck. It was one of the most strenous things I have ever done, and the next week he bought a 12k warn winch.
Nice to have one as a backup, but as soon as you have the money, you will want a winch!
(Unless you are Seryoga, that dude seems to be pretty baller!)
It took about 3 hours to get it out, those "lockers" in the front of fords are really lockers, but there is a throw out mechanism that releases the locker if the torque bias is too much, giving you an open front diff and lsd rear. That was our problem, the right side of the truck was sunk, the left side was on solid ground, so frustrating, but neither the lsd or the "locker" (wink wink,) could pull the truck. It was one of the most strenous things I have ever done, and the next week he bought a 12k warn winch.
Nice to have one as a backup, but as soon as you have the money, you will want a winch!
(Unless you are Seryoga, that dude seems to be pretty baller!)
JK Newbie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Concrete Jungle, NYC
Ahhh mud! 
The key to mud is a front locker or LSD and lots of throttle 
an old pic of my rangie in the muck. The feller in a TJ with a locked rear and open front, 4" lift, and 33x12.50's got stuck about 3/4 of the way through. It was nasty stuff. This is an example of some muck you would NOT want to attempt a hi-lift recovery. Of the 4 vehicles that passed through that spot I was the only one to make it through and was also the last. To make things simple, I pre-rigged a recovery point up front and ran the line back to the cab - that way if i got stuck i could throw a lead-line out to someone out of the pit, and they could run it up to a winch cable. Can make the difference between 1 hour or 3 if there are alot of vehicles moving their way through or over an obstacle.
The key to mud is a front locker or LSD and lots of throttle an old pic of my rangie in the muck. The feller in a TJ with a locked rear and open front, 4" lift, and 33x12.50's got stuck about 3/4 of the way through. It was nasty stuff. This is an example of some muck you would NOT want to attempt a hi-lift recovery. Of the 4 vehicles that passed through that spot I was the only one to make it through and was also the last. To make things simple, I pre-rigged a recovery point up front and ran the line back to the cab - that way if i got stuck i could throw a lead-line out to someone out of the pit, and they could run it up to a winch cable. Can make the difference between 1 hour or 3 if there are alot of vehicles moving their way through or over an obstacle.
Trending Topics
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
From: Philly, PA
lol, thanks, i just like to push my X into deep/nasty stuff to see what it can and can't do.
Last edited by Seryoga; Jul 9, 2008 at 05:53 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Montana
I am planning on buying a winch at the end of the summer but until then I use my highlift and the highlift winch kit. It works great with chain tensioner which allows you to cycle through the whole length of the winch multiple times.
JK Freak
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
From: Brownsboro TX
That would make it a whole lot easier so you don't have to waste all the pulls pulling slack out every time you reset...