Got my Teraflex alum sliders today.
I ordered the Teraflex alum sliders friday and got them Wednesday night. I hope to put them on this weekend. My first imperssion was.....wow......this is nice stuff. Pretty solid feeling and nice and clean. I was amazed that they are curved, as in not just a straight bend prouduct. They should look pretty sharp once installed.
Mind you, I'm not a rock crawler (I do rocky trails), and if I was, I most likely would go with steel ones. But I was looking for protection, step and something to hide the ugly seam. I believe they will do that. Worst case is that if I do wreck them, it would be probably take several years, and it would be cheaper to replace them as opposed to doing body repairs. They will definately protect the body well.
Bottom line ...I think they will look great, less weight, clean side look, great looking design.....of course I have not installed them yet....looks like a pain.



Mind you, I'm not a rock crawler (I do rocky trails), and if I was, I most likely would go with steel ones. But I was looking for protection, step and something to hide the ugly seam. I believe they will do that. Worst case is that if I do wreck them, it would be probably take several years, and it would be cheaper to replace them as opposed to doing body repairs. They will definately protect the body well.
Bottom line ...I think they will look great, less weight, clean side look, great looking design.....of course I have not installed them yet....looks like a pain.




I like the idea of making them as lite as possible but really do wonder about the strength. I would like to see more options in alluminum to keep things lite. My JK is becoming a heavy PIG (Steel bumpers x2, lift, winch----PowerPlant, rock rails, etc etc.....)
Oh and...
Oh and...
I ordered the Teraflex alum sliders friday and got them Wednesday night. I hope to put them on this weekend. My first imperssion was.....wow......this is nice stuff. Pretty solid feeling and nice and clean. I was amazed that they are curved, as in not just a straight bend prouduct. They should look pretty sharp once installed.
Mind you, I'm not a rock crawler (I do rocky trails), and if I was, I most likely would go with steel ones. But I was looking for protection, step and something to hide the ugly seam. I believe they will do that. Worst case is that if I do wreck them, it would be probably take several years, and it would be cheaper to replace them as opposed to doing body repairs. They will definately protect the body well.
Bottom line ...I think they will look great, less weight, clean side look, great looking design.....of course I have not installed them yet....looks like a pain.




Mind you, I'm not a rock crawler (I do rocky trails), and if I was, I most likely would go with steel ones. But I was looking for protection, step and something to hide the ugly seam. I believe they will do that. Worst case is that if I do wreck them, it would be probably take several years, and it would be cheaper to replace them as opposed to doing body repairs. They will definately protect the body well.
Bottom line ...I think they will look great, less weight, clean side look, great looking design.....of course I have not installed them yet....looks like a pain.





Hey CLACKEY get back to sniffing paint!
As for rock Crawling with these.... I have seen these in use first hand! They hold up nicely on the rocks! The design is smooth so they will not get caught on the rocks they will slide! And they are a lot thicker than what meets the eye.
Second they will work nicely in the rain and slush when the angled underside deflects all that away from the sides of your JK. Which also means no more chipped door hinges! And last but not least they give you a nice step to climb in with for both the 2 door and all four doors on the Unlimited! Thats SWEET!
These will be on my JK in the near future!
Second they will work nicely in the rain and slush when the angled underside deflects all that away from the sides of your JK. Which also means no more chipped door hinges! And last but not least they give you a nice step to climb in with for both the 2 door and all four doors on the Unlimited! Thats SWEET!
These will be on my JK in the near future!
Last edited by whpony96; Aug 28, 2008 at 09:41 AM.
I just love my Teraflex sliders.

Many thanks to nmjk, I followed his additional directions (Teraflex should include them with the sliders) for the slider install and it went without a hitch.
If anyone is interested here they are from his June 2007 post.
If you combine the Teraflex and nmjk's instructions, and basically follow them to the letter like I did, it'll be a piece of cake.
I did have to file the inside of a couple of the bolt holes a mm or so to get them to line up with the serts but that's no problem at all.
I spent some time lining up the sliders exactly before marking the sert locations, and I also used a little engine paint on the drilled metal after the holes were drilled.
"OK, no guarantees, but I thought the factory instructions were missing a bit.
1. The Tera flex name goes to the front. This allows some seams to clear underneath.
2. Have some help or use a hydraulic lift (that is what the picture shows) to hold the rail in place while the side holes are marked.
3. The tape suggestion that they make is ok, but I did not use any. Take a small center punch or a scribe and make a small indention in the very center of the mark.
4. Start the hole with a very small drill bit, I would suggest a 1/16". Once you have that drilled, use the size they recommend.
5. Use the sert tool to install the serts. Hold the sleeve with a boxed end wrench and use an impact wrench set on low speed and with no more air than 65-70psi. Oil the sert tool with your favorite lube. WD40, motor oil whatever. These serts will start to slightly deform the sheetmetal around them once they are good and tight. If you don't get them tight enough, they could spin when you try to tighten the stainless button head bolts.
6. If you don't oil the sert tool it won't last for 14 holes.
7. If you use a wrench or socket instead of impact, it will work, but is much harder. The impact also keeps it straight.
8. It is not clear in their instructions as to where the lock washers go. The picture I saw of one installed had them on the side bolts. I chose not to put them there for looks. If you agree, you might want to use lock tight on the side bolts.
9. You will need a long drill bit to get through from the bottom, don't try drilling from top and bottom, go buy the longer drill bit.
10. Remove the plastc molding clips (PITA) that hold the molding in so that you can get to the place where you will drill through.
11. Drill holes. Install bolts. Put back molding."
Many thanks to nmjk, I followed his additional directions (Teraflex should include them with the sliders) for the slider install and it went without a hitch.
If anyone is interested here they are from his June 2007 post.
If you combine the Teraflex and nmjk's instructions, and basically follow them to the letter like I did, it'll be a piece of cake.
I did have to file the inside of a couple of the bolt holes a mm or so to get them to line up with the serts but that's no problem at all.
I spent some time lining up the sliders exactly before marking the sert locations, and I also used a little engine paint on the drilled metal after the holes were drilled.
"OK, no guarantees, but I thought the factory instructions were missing a bit.
1. The Tera flex name goes to the front. This allows some seams to clear underneath.
2. Have some help or use a hydraulic lift (that is what the picture shows) to hold the rail in place while the side holes are marked.
3. The tape suggestion that they make is ok, but I did not use any. Take a small center punch or a scribe and make a small indention in the very center of the mark.
4. Start the hole with a very small drill bit, I would suggest a 1/16". Once you have that drilled, use the size they recommend.
5. Use the sert tool to install the serts. Hold the sleeve with a boxed end wrench and use an impact wrench set on low speed and with no more air than 65-70psi. Oil the sert tool with your favorite lube. WD40, motor oil whatever. These serts will start to slightly deform the sheetmetal around them once they are good and tight. If you don't get them tight enough, they could spin when you try to tighten the stainless button head bolts.
6. If you don't oil the sert tool it won't last for 14 holes.
7. If you use a wrench or socket instead of impact, it will work, but is much harder. The impact also keeps it straight.
8. It is not clear in their instructions as to where the lock washers go. The picture I saw of one installed had them on the side bolts. I chose not to put them there for looks. If you agree, you might want to use lock tight on the side bolts.
9. You will need a long drill bit to get through from the bottom, don't try drilling from top and bottom, go buy the longer drill bit.
10. Remove the plastc molding clips (PITA) that hold the molding in so that you can get to the place where you will drill through.
11. Drill holes. Install bolts. Put back molding."
Last edited by edwin907; Aug 28, 2008 at 08:02 PM.



I said I like the use of alluminum.......Keep it lite