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Detailed Questions re Lifting 2008 JK 2-Door

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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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Default Detailed Questions re Lifting 2008 JK 2-Door

Hi,

This is my first post to this forum. This looks like a great place for sharing information. What really strikes me after reading a few hundred posts is the tone of everyone posting. There hasn't been a single negative post! And the wealth of information is incredible.

Making the decision to buy the new Rubicon was sure a lot easier than deciding on which lift kit (and height to install). There's a lot of great advice on this forum, so I thought I'd ask for some advice. I have read something about each of my questions in various threads on this forum; but, nothing that really has everything all together. Too bad there isn't some sort of a spreadsheet with all of the different options and recommendations. Has that ever been done for topics such as this one?

I'll apologize in advance for the length of this post. I just want to include as much information as possible, and ask all the questions I can think of before submitting this post. I hope it's not overkill. I know there is a lot of experience on this board, so I'm hoping that there are opinions on a lot of the questions.

If it would be better to post each question in an individual post, I would be happy to do that, too. Since everything kind of ties together I was trying to keep it all in one post... but, I don't want to post something that no one feels comfortable replying to. I realize that many of the questions have been answered on other threads, although I haven't found answers to the questions that are letting me narrow down the lift options.

The following are the specifics that will go into the selection of a lift kit (and other required parts):

1. Tire Size: Initially stock 32s - upgrading to 35s within a short time (or possibly upgrading to 33s depending on answers to some of my other questions).

2. Lift Height: 3" to 4" (Although 2" Coil Kit also being Considered)

3. Installation: DIY (Prefer No Welded Components)

4. Drive Conditions: Trails, Rocks/Slickrock (Moab), Highway, and City (It's tough to say what the mix of conditions will actually be long term.)

5. Additional Add-Ons to Consider (i.e. Weight): Winch and Heavier Front and Rear Bumpers (In other words, I want to make sure the springs are capable of the added weight.)

6. Other: 1.) Stable / Safe Road (Highway/City) Driving. 2.) Reliable Components (Long Life). 3.) Great Engineering (Complete Package for Installation with Few Surprises). 4.) No Interference with ESP or Other Jeep Systems.

Questions:

1. Drive Shaft Replacement: Once a decision is made to replace the driveshafts, should both the front and the rear be replaced at the same time, or is one more critical than the other? (Who are the respected manufacturers?) (This is a topic that gets ignored by a lot of reviewers and manufacturers, yet there are Jeep enthusiasts who have a very strong opinion that whenever the Jeep is lifted, the drive shafts should be replaced.) Is the general opinion that driveshafts should be replaced regardless of the lift height (2", 3" or 4")?

2. Tire Size Considerations: I had decided to go with 35" BF Goodrich MT; but, from what I have read, it may be a good idea to be more conservative (such as 33" primarily for weight reduction). Although I'll lose something in clearance, the reduced weight of the tires won't stress the driveline as much. Would I be making a mistake by going with 35 inch tires when I consider the life of the Jeep?

3. Adjustable Control Arms: Should adjustable control arms for the front and the rear be installed along with the lift kit for a 3"/4" lift? Or, is the front (or rear) more critical? If the lift kit doesn't include adjustable control arms should I not consider that kit? (If I went with a 2" coil kit from ARB OME, should I consider other suspension components to replace at the same time?)

4. Shock Absorber Type: Twin Tube? Monotube? (Are the higher pressures of the monotube shocks a problem?) Which type is better for crawling? Which is better for highway? Is there a preferred manufacturer? (I understand that lift kit manufacturers provide shocks (or options for them) with their systems, and that they should be matched to the springs for that system.)

5. Brake Line Extensions: For the kits that include relocation brackets only, will there be enough travel? Or, should brake lines be extended to be on the safe side?

6. Body Lift: Should lifting the body (maybe 1") be considered? Or, is it best to stay away from body lift for the JK?

7. Jeep Warranty: Is there any kind of unwritten rule about how much modification can be done to the suspension (i.e. lift) or driveline (i.e. driveshaft replacement) before the warranty is voided? Typically, will a modified suspension or driveline void the warranty on the engine / transmission / differential? (I have read quite a bit about this topic on the forum, and I think I am pretty clear with what has been written.)

8. Lift Kit Manufacturers: 1.) Teraflex. 2.) Black Diamond (3"). 3.) Superlift (4"). 4. Rubicon Express. 5. ARB OME. 6. Nth Degree (Is there a 2-door kit?) 7. Fabtech I have read a lot of good things about Teraflex, Black Diamond and OME in particular. Is there any other manufacturer worth considering? (I know this may be a preference as much as a recommendation.)

If you've made it this far in this post... Thanks. Any information you can share will really be appreciated. If there's anything that I've failed to ask, I'd be interested in hearing that input, too.

Thanks

Jeff
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff09
Hi,

1. Tire Size: Initially stock 32s - upgrading to 35s within a short time (or possibly upgrading to 33s depending on answers to some of my other questions).

Don't do it twice. Get the 35's unless you decide on the 2" lift

2. Lift Height: 3" to 4" (Although 2" Coil Kit also being Considered)

3. Installation: DIY (Prefer No Welded Components)

Teraflex flex arm kit

4. Drive Conditions: Trails, Rocks/Slickrock (Moab), Highway, and City (It's tough to say what the mix of conditions will actually be long term.)

The Mall is treacherous..be careful... j/k

5. Additional Add-Ons to Consider (i.e. Weight): Winch and Heavier Front and Rear Bumpers (In other words, I want to make sure the springs are capable of the added weight.)

Expect it to settle. The cheaper kits will settle more, the better brands will settle to their true/ advertised heights. IMO

6. Other: 1.) Stable / Safe Road (Highway/City) Driving. 2.) Reliable Components (Long Life). 3.) Great Engineering (Complete Package for Installation with Few Surprises). 4.) No Interference with ESP or Other Jeep Systems.

Teraflex, well engineered and great customer service. ESP = make sure to bring your steering wheel to center immediately. Or you will freak when esp kicks in constantly, since it feels like the Jeep is ready to fall apart.

Questions:

1. Drive Shaft Replacement: Once a decision is made to replace the driveshafts, should both the front and the rear be replaced at the same time, or is one more critical than the other? (Who are the respected manufacturers?) (This is a topic that gets ignored by a lot of reviewers and manufacturers, yet there are Jeep enthusiasts who have a very strong opinion that whenever the Jeep is lifted, the drive shafts should be replaced.) Is the general opinion that driveshafts should be replaced regardless of the lift height (2", 3" or 4")?

Do as needed. Lots of write ups here- up to 3" you don't need it right away anyway.

2. Tire Size Considerations: I had decided to go with 35" BF Goodrich MT; but, from what I have read, it may be a good idea to be more conservative (such as 33" primarily for weight reduction). Although I'll lose something in clearance, the reduced weight of the tires won't stress the driveline as much. Would I be making a mistake by going with 35 inch tires when I consider the life of the Jeep?

I've run 37's on my 2 door for the last 15k miles, mild off-roading so far, no issues. It really comes down to how you drive.. go 35's with no regrets

3. Adjustable Control Arms: Should adjustable control arms for the front and the rear be installed along with the lift kit for a 3"/4" lift? Or, is the front (or rear) more critical? If the lift kit doesn't include adjustable control arms should I not consider that kit? (If I went with a 2" coil kit from ARB OME, should I consider other suspension components to replace at the same time?)

3-4" IMO do adjustable control arms.

4. Shock Absorber Type: Twin Tube? Monotube? (Are the higher pressures of the monotube shocks a problem?) Which type is better for crawling? Which is better for highway? Is there a preferred manufacturer? (I understand that lift kit manufacturers provide shocks (or options for them) with their systems, and that they should be matched to the springs for that system.)

True, get the ones matched by the mfgr. Bilstein does a great shock from what I read, if you have to go that route.

5. Brake Line Extensions: For the kits that include relocation brackets only, will there be enough travel? Or, should brake lines be extended to be on the safe side?

TF provides extended break lines when required.

6. Body Lift: Should lifting the body (maybe 1") be considered? Or, is it best to stay away from body lift for the JK?

Body lifts on the JK are simple and easy. But you wont need it to clear 35's with 3" of lift

7. Jeep Warranty: Is there any kind of unwritten rule about how much modification can be done to the suspension (i.e. lift) or driveline (i.e. driveshaft replacement) before the warranty is voided? Typically, will a modified suspension or driveline void the warranty on the engine / transmission / differential? (I have read quite a bit about this topic on the forum, and I think I am pretty clear with what has been written.)

Dealer specific. If you replace it--Jeep doesn't warranty it.

8. Lift Kit Manufacturers: 1.) Teraflex. 2.) Black Diamond (3"). 3.) Superlift (4"). 4. Rubicon Express. 5. ARB OME. 6. Nth Degree (Is there a 2-door kit?) 7. Fabtech I have read a lot of good things about Teraflex, Black Diamond and OME in particular. Is there any other manufacturer worth considering? (I know this may be a preference as much as a recommendation.)

If you've made it this far in this post... Thanks. Any information you can share will really be appreciated. If there's anything that I've failed to ask, I'd be interested in hearing that input, too.

Thanks

Jeff
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 04:30 AM
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Default Tambil68... Thanks

Hi Tambil68,

Thanks for the detailed answers to my questions.

Teraflex seems to be a well respected brand. Dan Mick in Moab was the first to recommend Teraflex. I also see the resident Teraflex board expert post quite often. It gets a little more confusing when I read good reviews about ARB Old Man Emu, Black Diamond, and Superlift...

I know there's know perfect solution; but, I don't want to purchase a kit and then read something that makes me wish I would have done something different right away. It follows your suggestion about the tires, and what others have said about doing it right the first time.... I am a big believer in that philosophy.

Thanks again for your input.

Jeff
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:53 AM
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This would be my opinion....now according to my wife it ain't worth much, but I'll throw it out there anyhow.

Get the new OME HD kit from Northridge, has all the goodies (trac bars, brake lines bump stops etc) it will handle the extra weight of the bumpers and winch with no problem. The nice thing about his kit is you will still have a great ride and road manners. Big plus, no driveline issues to worry about. Should you decide you want to go to 35's it is an easy fix with a 1" bodylift for $100....and you still maintain the driveability for highway use.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 06:46 AM
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Default BaltChief... Thanks

Hi BaltChief,

Thanks for your input.

Good highway manners is definitely a high priority. That's one of the great things I've heard about OME.

Question... I thought I had read somewhere that with the 2" lift, 35s wouldn't be a problem. It sounds like I should plan on the 1" body lift if I would go that route. Is the body lift a requirement, or just a bit of a safety factor? Also, based on your post, it sounds like the drive shafts shouldn't be a consideration with the 2" lift.

(Off topic... Does your username have something to do with fire protection or fire service?)

Thanks

Jeff
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 07:13 AM
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There is no question, the new OME kit from Northridge is the way to go! This LINK will take you to what you get and contact info for Dave. You will not need a body lift with this kit.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff09
Hi BaltChief,

Thanks for your input.

Good highway manners is definitely a high priority. That's one of the great things I've heard about OME.

Question... I thought I had read somewhere that with the 2" lift, 35s wouldn't be a problem. It sounds like I should plan on the 1" body lift if I would go that route. Is the body lift a requirement, or just a bit of a safety factor? Also, based on your post, it sounds like the drive shafts shouldn't be a consideration with the 2" lift.

(Off topic... Does your username have something to do with fire protection or fire service?)

Thanks

Jeff
I think with the new kit you won't need the BL....ask Dave to be sure

...as for the name....I live in Baltimore and am a KC Chiefs fan (not that I would admit it this year)....
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Jeff,

I believe there are a few things you might have forgetten.
Going to 35's You might want to regear, manual 4.88's, Auto 5.13's. Espically if your adding anywhere near the weight i have in my RubyDoo.
Engine skidplate should almost be manditory if your going to be doing off-roading with Your Rubicon.
Tires; unless you plan on staying with 10.50" wide tire, you will need eather a 1.5 spacer for the stock rims or rims with less offset. Stockers are 6.25 backspace.
I would also extreamly highly suggest of going to www.4xfix.com and get the steering stablizer relocation kit and also the Evap can relocation kit. Brent is a local here on the site and gives us deals for his wares.
Please also very highly consider talking to Dave @ www.northridge4x4.com about all your lifts and other stuff, he has been on top of the JK revelotion from day one.

BTW my 2dr has 3" lift and 35's rides really good and still is kind-of mostly stockish.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 08:06 AM
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Default jkkat... Thanks

Hi jkkat,

Thanks for your suggestions.

I'm glad you mentioned the gearing. That's another topic for which there are a lot of differing opinions. I have read some posts which state that 35s are fine with the 4.10; but, there are other posts which suggest that it would be a good idea to regear. (That adds another set of options, and more money.)

I also failed to mention the wheels. My intent is to purchase new along with the tires. (Is 4.75" backspacing the correct amount? That seems to be the concensus.)

Dave with Northridge has quite a fan club here. I'll definitely give him a call once I decide what I want to buy. (I was wondering for a while if this was a Northridge forum, or if Northridge pays a finders fee. Other than for those reasons, I suppose he must provide great service.)

I'll look into your other suggestions, too... I'll just need to prioritize how I can optimize my rather limited resources. Some things will have to wait, I suppose.

Thanks again.

Jeff
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 08:19 AM
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Jeff the 6 speed and 35's work ok. The auto and 35's is not good from what i understand. with eather the OD gear is useless unless going down hill with 50mph tail wind.
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