Rock Hard Sport Cage Tips
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,640
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From: Dallas, Texas, United States
I didn't want to just rehash all the aspects of installing the cage. I have a few pics that I'll post later, but for now, I just wanted to say that installing the full RH cage for my unlimited was little to no hassle at all. It helps that my friend has every kind of kewl tool known to man. And I read every thread I could about how others have installed their cages. It took us about 3-4 hours taking it easy.
Here are my tips.
Read the instructions well. Have the tools you need ready to go. You don't have to have help, but it does make it easier.
I would use the tap to clear any powder coat or paint form all of the threaded parts of the cage before starting. It's an easy way to make the entire thing go smoothly.
Use some sort of lube (we had graphite, and needed only a very little dab) on each bolt for the clamps.
When drilling the door jamb for the mounting plates, don't blast thru with the 7/16's drill right from the start. Go with a smaller bit, and even an intermediate bit after that, prior to the 7/16 bit. It's just easier to control the hole, and it is much neater.
We tightened the bolts where the vertical plate attaches to the windshield so we'd have it in the correct position when marking the holes to be drilled. You DO have to take off the cage piece to drill the holes because you'll damage the threads if you don't. But once we went to actually install the vertical piece, we snugged the bolts and it helped get the door plate bolts started easier.
Hand tightening the 6 bolts on each of the C Clamps is a bit of a pain, but we had power tools for this. Also, I think it helps to tighten opposing bolts instead of all on top and then all on bottom. Tighten the top left, then the bottom right, then top right, then bottom left, then middle top, middle bottom. You'll have to go back thru this sequence over and over as it snugs up the clamp. We also went back and rechecked all the bolts once the entire thing was installed.
The plastic tarp thing helps keep the jeep clean with the drilling, but it also gets in the way.
Have some Krylon in the color you need to touch up any dings you might get in your paint or finish.
This is a good kit. I hope this helps.
Pics later, so don't even,.... Oh go ahead.
Here are my tips.
Read the instructions well. Have the tools you need ready to go. You don't have to have help, but it does make it easier.
I would use the tap to clear any powder coat or paint form all of the threaded parts of the cage before starting. It's an easy way to make the entire thing go smoothly.
Use some sort of lube (we had graphite, and needed only a very little dab) on each bolt for the clamps.
When drilling the door jamb for the mounting plates, don't blast thru with the 7/16's drill right from the start. Go with a smaller bit, and even an intermediate bit after that, prior to the 7/16 bit. It's just easier to control the hole, and it is much neater.
We tightened the bolts where the vertical plate attaches to the windshield so we'd have it in the correct position when marking the holes to be drilled. You DO have to take off the cage piece to drill the holes because you'll damage the threads if you don't. But once we went to actually install the vertical piece, we snugged the bolts and it helped get the door plate bolts started easier.
Hand tightening the 6 bolts on each of the C Clamps is a bit of a pain, but we had power tools for this. Also, I think it helps to tighten opposing bolts instead of all on top and then all on bottom. Tighten the top left, then the bottom right, then top right, then bottom left, then middle top, middle bottom. You'll have to go back thru this sequence over and over as it snugs up the clamp. We also went back and rechecked all the bolts once the entire thing was installed.
The plastic tarp thing helps keep the jeep clean with the drilling, but it also gets in the way.
Have some Krylon in the color you need to touch up any dings you might get in your paint or finish.
This is a good kit. I hope this helps.
Pics later, so don't even,.... Oh go ahead.
Last edited by mmcan; Feb 7, 2009 at 12:14 PM.
MMCAN, has it pretty right, especially about the starter drill size, if you get your drill CAUGHT, on one of the "pinch welds", it'll throw it WAY OFFI also used a dremel tool to make sure the "button head bolts would engage cleanly, that way the side structure only had to be installed twice

JIMBO
Well, I wasn't going to put anything there, but my wife said "that grip helps me get in, but I wish it was easier to grab"VERY NICE Jimbo!
I put in the sPod instead of drilling all the switches into the center cross member. But I'm scheming about what to do with all that mounting space.
I like the way you put the extra grab handles on the front to cross member. My son is already climbing on that part of the cage in anticipation of gittin it of road.
I put in the sPod instead of drilling all the switches into the center cross member. But I'm scheming about what to do with all that mounting space.
I like the way you put the extra grab handles on the front to cross member. My son is already climbing on that part of the cage in anticipation of gittin it of road.
The switch's are part of a MOROSO racing switch panel, that I mounted to a plastic box, that I can open up, to add/modify the wiring or remove switch's, I cut a 1" access hole, in the ctr part of the cage for wiring entry
I think you know, that with all that room up there, why encumber/clutter the little dashboard area !!!
Cheers

JIMBO
In Vallejo, just 15 miles South of NAPA and about 60 miles NE of San FranciscoState Hiwy I 80, cuts right thru the middle, so it's 45 min to SF-2 hrs to the top of the Sierras, which is where I spend most of my off-road time , in the Sierras, not SF !!!




