Everyone said I would tear up my driveshaft on skid plate. Well, shortly after I put the 3" teraflex lift on my 4-door unlimited, my driveshaft got torn up on the side of the transmission.

So now I need a new, lower-profile driveshaft. Does anyone have any experience with cjtatton on Ebay? (Tattons Driveshafts)?

Also, its pretty close to the side of the transmission. What will keep an aftermarket driveshaft from getting torn up like the stock shaft? Smaller diameter? That doesn't give me much confidence.

Thanks!

 

I've heard people having balancing issues with tattons.

For the price just go with a set of Coast drivelines. The after market shafts are smaller in diameter and wont hit the skid.

 

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ghlight=tatton

 

Hi Iblowstuffup,

I recently purchased the Tatton driveshafts (front and rear). They are both sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.

Based upon what I read there are several good options. Woods, Reel, Coast and several others, in addition to Tatton, have good things said about them (and some not so good).

One of my criteria for this mod was buying the shafts direct. I spoke with Cutris Tatton, a rep at Woods, and if I remember correctly a rep at Reel. I wanted to be comfortable with the company I purchased from.

From a price perspective, I think Tatton, Reel, Woods, and Coast are relatively close. (The pricing on E-Bay for Tatton does not list the JK shafts... you will need to call Tatton for the price of the fronts and rears.) I purchased shafts with new yokes... the shafts were not a direct OEM replacement.

Regarding the balancing issues referenced here, I can't speak to that point (at least not yet). There was one post recently which stated that there were balancing issues with Tatton; however, when I requested details, there was no response. This may be a very good question to ask whoever it is that you buy your driveshafts from. Tatton states that their shafts are balanced to the equivalent of 100 mph. Based upon the conversations I have had with Cutris, I believe he would make things right if there was a problem; but, that is just my opinion. Regardless of whose shafts are purchased, that is one of the big reasons I would prefer to buy direct.

As I said earlier, I believe there are a lot of good options. Tatton just happens to the be the one that I chose. I will post my opinion of their performance once they are installed.

Good Luck

Jeff

 

Find a local reputable driveline shop and take your jeep to them. It will be cheaper, warrented, and you will not have to do the labor. Mine cost $350 installed.

 

yea my front drive shaft is f''d up but the rear is fine got a 3' lift. going to order a woods most likely.

 

On a side note referring to aftermarket driveshafts, please remember to lube em often as you can. from experience i can tell you if you overlook lubing them the potential for damage to other parts under your jk is high....i had a tom woods rear driveshaft installed in october of 08 and was aware of the zerk fittings but never greased them and started hearing a clanking noise upon takeoff and after i changed gears and a serious vibration would occur in 3rd and 4th gear and when my mechanic showed me the two u-joints and the damage which occured i was like "HOLY SHIT" they replaced it with two spicer units and they told me to lube it at the very least every oil change and after every water crossing so lucky for me the DS did not explode while in transit as it could have been much worse.

 

Hi roguejk,

That's a great thing to mention.

I just began putting a preventative maintence list together to make sure nothing gets overlooked. Between the grease fittings on the control arms and those on the driveshafts, it may be worth investing in a great gun to hook up to the compressor. (I don't want to risk having these missed should I get a little lazy and have the oil changed by someone else.)

Thanks

Jeff

 

well the zerk fittings that are visible and easy to get to on the aftermarket driveshafts are not a problem, but my mechanic informed me that there are whats called needle fittings or reverse zerks that are inside the u-joints that require you to remove one side of your driveshaft and have a needle fitting for your grease gun, he said its the only way to reach it, so i'll be giving it a shot since im gonna grease my DS's more frequently and since he said bring it by it should only take 45 minutes to do both DS's, "NOT!!!! I'LL LEARN THIS ONE FOR SURE and i'll take pics and post em when i do. we should all be changing our own motor oil, diff oils and lubing aftermarket suspension parts as well as doing some well thought of mods that users to this web site so kindly share with us because we really need to know our JK's so that in the event of a problem on the trail we can hopefully be familiar enough with our rides to handle it ourselves.

 

And if you don't get a aftermarket front driveshaft for awhile, like i did, your trans pan will start leaking....I couldn't have that, so I did use Tatton's to install my new shaft, which they are local to me and then took my JK to the dealership and they installed a new pan....no more leaks and no driveline issue's for almost two years!