Locker and gear instal
OK...I have a 2dr x with a 30 in the front and 44 in the rear. I am regearing as soon as my tax check gets here. Going with 4.56's as I have the 6 speed so I should be fine. Now for the question...
I can't afford to put lockers in both front and rear....so is one better than the other? Does the size of gearing affect the ability to use a locker in the smaller D30? What are your feelings on the Aussie lockers? I like how they are somewhat automatic.
I can't afford to put lockers in both front and rear....so is one better than the other? Does the size of gearing affect the ability to use a locker in the smaller D30? What are your feelings on the Aussie lockers? I like how they are somewhat automatic.
Having probs with my auto- locker in frt, it's putting stress on the TF case chain, even in 2wd. You can here the chain racheting at 30mph and up. Getting it taken out next week. Go with a selectable locker frt or rear and save yourself some headaches . My steering is twice as hard, I think it's locked all the time now. Don't no what the hell happened, did fine for a day, then f'd up.
I love my Aussie in the front, and I did amazing things with only the Aussie and the limited slip in the rear. Mine has worked perfect for two years and dozens of serious off road adventures. There are other Auto Lockers that are quieter and smoother, just do your homework. Don't be afraid of an auto locker in the front.
I am a practical, realistic kind of guy. My recomendation, and I learned this from some TJ guys and it worked great for me, is that if you are doing things one step at a time and you are on limited funds, put an auto locker in the front first. You can do the work yourself and they are cheap, and they work awesome. They handle a little different, but learn what they do and know what you are getting into.
I just put a selectable in the rear and am going out for the first time completely locked front and rear. An auto locker in the rear is not the best option for a daily driver. They act weird when torque is applied, and I had one in the rear of my TJ and hated it.
If money is not object, then yes, go with selectable front and rear. The nice things about an Aussie, is you can buy and install one for less that $250, and if you want to get a selectable later, you can pull it out and sell it for $100 to $150 so your not out much.
You will hear people slam auto lockers for one reason or another. I love mine, and I know other guys who love theirs. They can handle some hard core stuff too. I have seen the same auto locker break more than one axle and the locker is still going strong. I don't know how they handle in snow, but they guys I know have had them in the snow with no problems. You just need to know how to drive them.
I am a practical, realistic kind of guy. My recomendation, and I learned this from some TJ guys and it worked great for me, is that if you are doing things one step at a time and you are on limited funds, put an auto locker in the front first. You can do the work yourself and they are cheap, and they work awesome. They handle a little different, but learn what they do and know what you are getting into.
I just put a selectable in the rear and am going out for the first time completely locked front and rear. An auto locker in the rear is not the best option for a daily driver. They act weird when torque is applied, and I had one in the rear of my TJ and hated it.
If money is not object, then yes, go with selectable front and rear. The nice things about an Aussie, is you can buy and install one for less that $250, and if you want to get a selectable later, you can pull it out and sell it for $100 to $150 so your not out much.
You will hear people slam auto lockers for one reason or another. I love mine, and I know other guys who love theirs. They can handle some hard core stuff too. I have seen the same auto locker break more than one axle and the locker is still going strong. I don't know how they handle in snow, but they guys I know have had them in the snow with no problems. You just need to know how to drive them.
You did not mention what gears you have now.
I just went to 35 inch KM2s from 33 inch KMs. I have the 4.10 gears and the 6 speed, and was very pleased with the gearing and the 35s. I thought I was going to need to re-gear, but now I am going to save my money for something else.
I just went to 35 inch KM2s from 33 inch KMs. I have the 4.10 gears and the 6 speed, and was very pleased with the gearing and the 35s. I thought I was going to need to re-gear, but now I am going to save my money for something else.
IMO, save a few more bucks and get both lockers at the same time since you're going to be regearing. There is no point in gearing, then tearing it all apart again to install the new locker. Paying for the installation twice.
Plus, I'm a bit biased on doing it the first time and getting it over with. I'm either going with ARB front and rear or Detroit in the rear and ARB in the front. I personally don't trust auto lockers/Aussie, etc.
Plus, I'm a bit biased on doing it the first time and getting it over with. I'm either going with ARB front and rear or Detroit in the rear and ARB in the front. I personally don't trust auto lockers/Aussie, etc.
IMO, save a few more bucks and get both lockers at the same time since you're going to be regearing. There is no point in gearing, then tearing it all apart again to install the new locker. Paying for the installation twice.
Plus, I'm a bit biased on doing it the first time and getting it over with. I'm either going with ARB front and rear or Detroit in the rear and ARB in the front. I personally don't trust auto lockers/Aussie, etc.
Plus, I'm a bit biased on doing it the first time and getting it over with. I'm either going with ARB front and rear or Detroit in the rear and ARB in the front. I personally don't trust auto lockers/Aussie, etc.
Give the guy good advice not uneducated opinions that are not based on anything factual at all. I would never tell anyone not to get an ARB because I saw some fail. Besides, what do you think a Detroit is? Yup! its an AUTOLOCKER!!!!
Soemtimes, in a case like me, I either do things one step at a time or it would not get done. In a perfect world with unlimited funds your way works great, but not all of us have those options.
GRRRRR......
I'd love to keep my auto locker in the frt if it wasn't f'ing up my TC. Don't know what's wrong, guess I'll find out next week. Sucks being without my JK for so long, it's gotta be set-up wrong or something.
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ive talked to the guys at aussie and they said the ticking or wind up noise is normal, especially in turns. when turning its just the outside wheel being forced to spin faster than the inside one. idk if thats the brand you have but im pretty sure they all work using the same basic principle. check out aussie's site, its very helpful/informative
Last edited by XJ Kid 89; Apr 24, 2009 at 09:56 PM.
ive talked to the guys at aussie and they said the ticking or wind up noise is normal, especially in turns. when turning its just the outside wheel being forced to spin faster than the inside one. idk if thats the brand you have but im pretty sure they all work using the same basic principle. check out aussie's site, its very helpful/informative
unless you put your Aussie in the last day or two the one your using was not approved to be installed in the new D30. Aussie just released the approved locker a couple of days ago. Yeah I know people have been putting them in all along and will tell you just use different thrust washers and it will work fine. Well if it were that simple Aussie would not have taken this long to come out with the one for the new D30. So I guess the people using them know more than the Aussie Engineer's. I think not. Here is there part #XD13227 for the front diff.
Last edited by Rhino64; Apr 25, 2009 at 04:07 AM.


