Recommended mods for 37" tires with beadlock wheels?
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JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,152
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From: Aguada, PR
Recommended mods for 37" tires with beadlock wheels?
I'm planning stage III and one of my concerns is the weight of 37" tires on Beadlock wheels. Also part of stage III is a 6.1 hemi
My JK is a auto Rubicon 2dr.
For the reasons stated above I think I should upgrade my axels, but I can't make up my mind how
1. Swap out the rear axel for a Dana 60 with ARB locker and upgrade the shafts in the front.
2. Swap out the rear and front axels for a Dana 44(nonrubicon) so I can use 35 spline shafts with ARB locker.
3. Just upgrade to chromoly shafts front and rear.
I don't trust the factory lockers with the setup I plan to do which is why I'm considering swaping axels so I can use the ARB lockers, but it is alot more $$$
Also with the Rubicon axels I can't go no higher than 32 spline I think
Suggestions
My JK is a auto Rubicon 2dr.For the reasons stated above I think I should upgrade my axels, but I can't make up my mind how
1. Swap out the rear axel for a Dana 60 with ARB locker and upgrade the shafts in the front.
2. Swap out the rear and front axels for a Dana 44(nonrubicon) so I can use 35 spline shafts with ARB locker.
3. Just upgrade to chromoly shafts front and rear.
I don't trust the factory lockers with the setup I plan to do which is why I'm considering swaping axels so I can use the ARB lockers, but it is alot more $$$
Also with the Rubicon axels I can't go no higher than 32 spline I thinkSuggestions
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 1
From: Aguada, PR
With a Hemi and a 2 dr, do the 60s (assuming you can allocate $18k-$20k for the Hemi swap, you can also afford 60s).
I am not an engineer, but or my 2 dr Rubi, with my front axle sleeved and gusseted, with chromoly shafts, and the rear with chromoly shafts, and 5.13 gears with 37s, I believe I am in good shape with the stock engine.
On a related note, at Easter Jeep Safari, I had a good conversation with Tom Woods (driveshaft manufacturer) about 1310 vs 1350 driveshafts. He commented that when a rig is geared very low (i.e. 5.13s or more with a 4.1 transfer case ratio), things break less frequently. The force is less abrupt, with less shock to the drivetrain, and results in fewer breaks.
Going with what Tom said, if you ran 5.38s, a 4.1 transfer case, chromoly shafts, sleeved and gusseted in the front, the stock axles and lockers might survive a Hemi in a 2dr on 37s--especially if you are only running locked in 4 Lo at low speeds. However, if you run 4.11s with the Hemi, you will break more frequently. I am thinking that if you run 5.38s and the 4.1 Rubi transfer case, a 2dr on 37s may not need a Hemi.
It really depends on the kind of wheeling you do.
I am not an engineer, but or my 2 dr Rubi, with my front axle sleeved and gusseted, with chromoly shafts, and the rear with chromoly shafts, and 5.13 gears with 37s, I believe I am in good shape with the stock engine.
On a related note, at Easter Jeep Safari, I had a good conversation with Tom Woods (driveshaft manufacturer) about 1310 vs 1350 driveshafts. He commented that when a rig is geared very low (i.e. 5.13s or more with a 4.1 transfer case ratio), things break less frequently. The force is less abrupt, with less shock to the drivetrain, and results in fewer breaks.
Going with what Tom said, if you ran 5.38s, a 4.1 transfer case, chromoly shafts, sleeved and gusseted in the front, the stock axles and lockers might survive a Hemi in a 2dr on 37s--especially if you are only running locked in 4 Lo at low speeds. However, if you run 4.11s with the Hemi, you will break more frequently. I am thinking that if you run 5.38s and the 4.1 Rubi transfer case, a 2dr on 37s may not need a Hemi.
It really depends on the kind of wheeling you do.
Where I live is mainly mud and very irregular terrain. The hills can be slippery which usually needs some throttle. Can't go slow because you lose traction and can slip backwards.
I'm hoping to avoid dana 60s for now because of the costs. Maybe Dana 60 in the rear and reinforce the front.
I'm also under the impression that if my JK is too heavy it might get bogged down in the mud and get stuck.
Thanks for your input so far
Any more suggestions?
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 1
From: Aguada, PR
The swap will be this summer
My concern is not the Hemi, its the axels after all is said and done.
JK Junkie
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,262
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
Usually in mud you are spinning your tires at a high rate of speed to keep them clear and keep yourself moving forward. I am not sure that the stock 44 would be able to take it. If you choose to stick with the stock 44 in the front I would at the very minimum sleeve and gusset it, and add some longfields.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 1
From: Aguada, PR
x2
Usually in mud you are spinning your tires at a high rate of speed to keep them clear and keep yourself moving forward. I am not sure that the stock 44 would be able to take it. If you choose to stick with the stock 44 in the front I would at the very minimum sleeve and gusset it, and add some longfields.
Usually in mud you are spinning your tires at a high rate of speed to keep them clear and keep yourself moving forward. I am not sure that the stock 44 would be able to take it. If you choose to stick with the stock 44 in the front I would at the very minimum sleeve and gusset it, and add some longfields.
What are Longfields?
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JK Junkie
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, Iowa