I am getting ready to paint and Linex my JK.
Vehicle: JK Rubi unlimited - Currently 100% stock...:(
Since I will have it completely apart anyways.......It has crossed my mind to maybe go for a full build and throw the following parts on as well:

Parts for Conversion:

1. Paint: Hot Rod Flatz Olive Brown(paint purchased) $800
2. Line-x $600
3. Rubicon Express 4.5 LA Kit w/ shocks & 1350 DS $4500
4. Woods Evap Relocation kit $Purchased
5. AEV Hemi swap kit - premium $5250
6. Hemi 6.1 Liter $7500
7. Auto Transmission – 545rfe $3000
8. Miscellaneous Expenses $1000
____________
$22650

I would be completing the build myself.

Going through SLC for the AEV kit, 6.1 and tranny.

The only issue that I foresee is the cost of the hemi add ons: ac compressor, PS....not sure if I can get all that for the 1000?...all the stuff that doesn't come on a crate motor. I would like to go with a crate motor since it has a warranty.

 

Thinking of sticking with the stock Rims with spidertrax spacers and jumping up to 37's.

 

This would be the second stage of the build:

1. OBA: Viair Ultra Duty Onboard Air System
2. Window Light Brackets
3. Additional Lights
4. Or-fab tire/can carrier
5. Winch
6. Optima Deep Cycle Battery
7. MyGig RER navigation unit (MyGig Lockpick & Mic kit)
8. Insulate hardtop
9. Or-fab Winch Bumper

 

If you want to go alittle cheaper on the lift go with the teraflex 4" lift. Thatll save you 1k and its just as good.

 

budget in a kick ass high resolution camera.... cause I want to see a lot of pics!!!

 

Here are my thougths. Others may disagree, but these are my opinions.

1. Why the RE Long Arm kit? What are you trying to gain with long arms? Ride? Handling? Articulation? I don't think you will gain any of those. I did an AEV conversion with a 5.7L and also bought the AEV 4.5" premium lift kit. I am running 37s and I love this lift. I have no issues stuffing the 37s. The ride, handling and articulation are great. I had originally ordered a long arm kit from another manufacturer, but after a test ride with the suspension engineer from AEV, I immediately cancelled my long arm kit and ordered the AEV kit. And it was a lot less money. Ok, some people complain about the cam bolts. So get adjustable lower arms if that is your thing. So far the cam bolts are a non-event for me. BTW, the "other manfacturer's" own ramp scores showed no gain in articulation with long arms. I cannot imagine the handling being better than AEV's. Yes, the springs are firm, but its a Jeep, not a Lexus.

Also if you go long arm, you will have trouble getting skid plates to bolt up - or so I have read from others on line with hemis and long arms. Something to think about. I am running the rock hard skids front to back and only had to do some reasonable amount of fabricating to get the engine skid to work.

2. No disrespect to SLC, but have you shopped your local Jeep dealer? Get in with whoever runs the parts department and negotiate. You would be surprised the amount of mark up that they have in parts. I used an internet dealer to get my local dealer to price match on parts. And even if you buy the motor and trans from SLC, you will still be making several trips to your local dealer - so spend some time negotiating a "preferred customer" discount rate. That will save you some $$$. I would try to buy the motor and trans from your local dealer. That will help you with pricing on the rest too. I know my local dealer has some very agressive pricing on "crate" motors and trans. (I put crate in quotes because some of these motors are not really true crate motors. They are "swing" motors - excess motors from the assembly line. Make sure of the warranty - it may be different.)

3. My other suggestion is to not rule out a used motor and trans. If you have any concerns over costs (and you will outspend just about any budget you put together), at least think about a good used driveline. They can cost a lot less and if you find one with low miles, there is not a lot of risk. I bought mine with a 100 day warranty - just to be sure it would fire up and run. Which it did just fine. I went used and have no regrets. I found a driveline that was in a local wreck, I did a carfax and was able to have the servicing dealer pull the complete maintenance history on the driveline. It takes time to find, but it can save some serious money. And you can drive it like you stole it from day one - no break in period!

4. Either way you go, you can find a complete list of everything you MAY need included in the AEV instructions. If you have any questions on the BOM, PM mea and I will try to help answer any questions.

5. I have not looked at AEV's instructions since I did mine, but they are about 85% complete. Some things are just plain not included. I came up with a different (better) way to set up the trans cooler. Again, I would be glad to help out in any way I can. I have photos of my complete build.

6. Do a body off install if you can. Much easier!

7. I am running the stock driveshaft in the rear. Again, many people will argue that is a weak point. Maybe so. I bought a spare for $100, so how bad can a broken DS be? IF you do go AEV 4.5" and go aftermarket DS, then you will need to buy adjustable rear control arms to set the pinion angle. With the factory shaft, there is no need to do that.

8. As for doing it yourself - the satisfaction from it is the best part!

 

I'm not sure this will save you $1000 but he/she is right about both of them being good kits...