Should I go 35s or 37s on my JK rubi axles?
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
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From: TX
Should I go 35s or 37s on my JK rubi axles?
OK, so, here's my question; I own an '04 WJ which I've wheeled for a couple of years on a 2.75" lift and 32s. Last winter, I snapped a rear shaft (D44 aluminum rear end with an Aussie lunchbox locker) and decided it was time to move on with a better drivetrain.
At the time, the JK rubi 44s could be still had for cheap, so I decided to go that route with the intention of running 35s after going to a 6" LA lift; yes, fenders will be cut
.
The past couple of months, I've been working on the axles to get them ready to mount under my dubjay; now the front is done (did the EVO gussets/skids and sleeves, as well as a RK truss) with the exception of gears. The rear will be trussed and eventually, will chromolly both F and R.
The WJ is obviously a heavy Jeep, but I'm sure not incredibly more than a 4 door JK (I may be wrong there though
); so for those of you (particularly 4 door owners) who have run 35s and then moved to 37s, did you find yourselves breaking down at the trail all the time?
I know that's a very generic question, but just trying to gauge some concepts that my help me decide whether I ought to stick to 35s or go all the way and get 37s and "be done with it"
FWIW, I think the KM2s do run a little smaller then other MTs
.
Thanks in advance.
______
David.
At the time, the JK rubi 44s could be still had for cheap, so I decided to go that route with the intention of running 35s after going to a 6" LA lift; yes, fenders will be cut
.The past couple of months, I've been working on the axles to get them ready to mount under my dubjay; now the front is done (did the EVO gussets/skids and sleeves, as well as a RK truss) with the exception of gears. The rear will be trussed and eventually, will chromolly both F and R.
The WJ is obviously a heavy Jeep, but I'm sure not incredibly more than a 4 door JK (I may be wrong there though
); so for those of you (particularly 4 door owners) who have run 35s and then moved to 37s, did you find yourselves breaking down at the trail all the time?I know that's a very generic question, but just trying to gauge some concepts that my help me decide whether I ought to stick to 35s or go all the way and get 37s and "be done with it"
FWIW, I think the KM2s do run a little smaller then other MTs
.Thanks in advance.
______
David.
JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,168
Likes: 1
From: texarkana,tx
lmao.... thats a first. As soon as I type it, you are gonna type it too. If you want 37's dont go 35's... you will be sorry, and then either regret your decision wondering if it would have held up, or you will lose your ass buying 37s and selling the 35s. Just wheel smart, you'll be fine.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,942
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From: Tampa, Florida
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 901
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From: West Jordan, UT & Prescott, AZ
I had 32" tires & a 4" long arm on my WJ. I was running the turdy-five rear, and 30 front, stock shafts.
Long story short, go with the 37"s, my 30/35 combo never blew up. I know I was lucky.
If you have the 4.7L you might run a greater chance of breakage vs. the 3.8 that is in the JK.
Your WJ will be a monster on 37"'s - just do it!
Long story short, go with the 37"s, my 30/35 combo never blew up.
I know I was lucky.If you have the 4.7L you might run a greater chance of breakage vs. the 3.8 that is in the JK.
Your WJ will be a monster on 37"'s - just do it!