Homemade roof rack - advise needed
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 12
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From: Texas
Homemade roof rack - advise needed
Hey Yall,
I've been working on a roof rack for my wife's 08 Sahara Unlimited, nothing special, just want more room for the dogs on trips.
You will probably see the resemblence of my rack to another manufactured rack (sorry MBRP), but I added a little of my own flair. I wanted a smaller tube size and somewhat low profile so I went with 1" SCH40 pipe(1 3/8" O.D.) bent on a cheap Harbor Freight pipe "kinker". So far I only have about $75 in materials, and I'm hoping to keep the total under $150 with paint.
I'm looking for ideas on what material I should use for the "floor" of the rack. I have a 4'x8' sheet of expanded steel, but the rack is 53 1/2" wide, and I think it would be hard to keep it from rusting. I am considering using some 1/8" or3/16" x 2" wide aluminum strips spaced about 1" apart, bolted to 1"x1" angle crossmembers, but I'm not sold on this idea yet. Any ideas/suggestions will be much appreciated.
It's not finished yet, but here's some pics I just took.
I've been working on a roof rack for my wife's 08 Sahara Unlimited, nothing special, just want more room for the dogs on trips.
You will probably see the resemblence of my rack to another manufactured rack (sorry MBRP), but I added a little of my own flair. I wanted a smaller tube size and somewhat low profile so I went with 1" SCH40 pipe(1 3/8" O.D.) bent on a cheap Harbor Freight pipe "kinker". So far I only have about $75 in materials, and I'm hoping to keep the total under $150 with paint.
I'm looking for ideas on what material I should use for the "floor" of the rack. I have a 4'x8' sheet of expanded steel, but the rack is 53 1/2" wide, and I think it would be hard to keep it from rusting. I am considering using some 1/8" or3/16" x 2" wide aluminum strips spaced about 1" apart, bolted to 1"x1" angle crossmembers, but I'm not sold on this idea yet. Any ideas/suggestions will be much appreciated.
It's not finished yet, but here's some pics I just took.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: usa
I am not sure what to tell you to use for a bottom on it. If you are going to do any kind of removable basket, then you don't need a lot non the bottom. If this is all the rack will be, then I think that a small open grid would be good.
I think that it looks GREAT so far! I like the lower clearance that you have made it.
I think that it looks GREAT so far! I like the lower clearance that you have made it.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Texas
The pipe's wall thickness is about .14 so I figure with some gussets it will hold at least a couple hundred pounds over the front, and much more in the back.
It won't have a removable basket; I have some 3/4" SCH40(1" O.D.) pipe with matching beveled ends that will be the upper "rails" about 3" above the lower side rails in the pics. The front and rear upper rails will be removable so I can carry long stuff like lumber, pipe, and fishing poles
.
One of the requirements of the floor of the rack is to be solid enough to walk on and set up lawn chairs on.....for tailgating and stuff. So the holes in the floor must be pretty small, but I don't want a solid floor (like plywood).
Also I was hoping someone could suggest a good, tough primer/sealer to use before paint. I considered using some type of bedliner instead of paint, but knowing me, I will be welding jack and shovel mounts and who knows what else on later, so it will be easier to grind off and touch up paint. Semi-flat black will be the color so the rack will match the bumpers and rock sliders that are in the planning stage.
It won't have a removable basket; I have some 3/4" SCH40(1" O.D.) pipe with matching beveled ends that will be the upper "rails" about 3" above the lower side rails in the pics. The front and rear upper rails will be removable so I can carry long stuff like lumber, pipe, and fishing poles
.One of the requirements of the floor of the rack is to be solid enough to walk on and set up lawn chairs on.....for tailgating and stuff. So the holes in the floor must be pretty small, but I don't want a solid floor (like plywood).
Also I was hoping someone could suggest a good, tough primer/sealer to use before paint. I considered using some type of bedliner instead of paint, but knowing me, I will be welding jack and shovel mounts and who knows what else on later, so it will be easier to grind off and touch up paint. Semi-flat black will be the color so the rack will match the bumpers and rock sliders that are in the planning stage.
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Excellent fab work!
I have not used it yet, but have bought some "Chassis Saver" for some work I'm doing. It is supposedly better than POR-15 and gives a smoother finish then bedliner.....google it and see what you think (if you want a barrier coating).
Also, I own the MBRP front bumper.....asked them for some touch up paint and they recommended a Rustoleum that matches their coatings. They are sending me some, so I don't know the color name/number just yet. Should have it next week, or you can contact Steve (MBRP TECH 1) here on the forum and ask him....if that is the look you are going for.
I have not used it yet, but have bought some "Chassis Saver" for some work I'm doing. It is supposedly better than POR-15 and gives a smoother finish then bedliner.....google it and see what you think (if you want a barrier coating).
Also, I own the MBRP front bumper.....asked them for some touch up paint and they recommended a Rustoleum that matches their coatings. They are sending me some, so I don't know the color name/number just yet. Should have it next week, or you can contact Steve (MBRP TECH 1) here on the forum and ask him....if that is the look you are going for.
Last edited by JeepDawg; Aug 16, 2009 at 05:03 PM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 0
From: Oxnard, CA
If you are planning on a couple people on top then I'd suggest thicker steel on the inside, at least 1/4" and minimum of 1/2" bolts. 5/8" would be better in case you stand up and start cheering and stuff.
Aluminum bracing would never carry active people load without running a pipe down the center. If you ran a center pipe then bolted some aluminum angle brackets between the outside and ctr pipe you should be good to go. Then put your extruded metal screen on top for a finished surface. Cut some plywood and finish it to put it on top for trips to the race track or whatever.
Take the pic of the Jeep and your wife, repost it to the Jeep wives section.
Aluminum bracing would never carry active people load without running a pipe down the center. If you ran a center pipe then bolted some aluminum angle brackets between the outside and ctr pipe you should be good to go. Then put your extruded metal screen on top for a finished surface. Cut some plywood and finish it to put it on top for trips to the race track or whatever.
Take the pic of the Jeep and your wife, repost it to the Jeep wives section.
