3.21 gear and 35inch tires
07-24-2017, 04:13 AM
#31
JK Jedi
I just bought a used 2008 jk. Ithe has 265/75/16 tires, I'm not sure what that equates to in inches? This jeep is a dog! Like the other guy said, I have to downshift on any type of highway incline. I don't know what rear gearing the Jeep has? I assume it is stock by the way it drives...slooow.
It's going to be 99% on road, at least until I find somewhere to ride offroad in Western N.C..
Any thoughts what gearing I might have now and should go to if I go with 33" tires?
Thanks
It's going to be 99% on road, at least until I find somewhere to ride offroad in Western N.C..
Any thoughts what gearing I might have now and should go to if I go with 33" tires?
Thanks
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...3&d=1333921001
Is a 33" tire what you really want? If you're going to regear, now is the time to decide if 33 will be the ultimate max tire, or if you really want to go to 35s. It's not going to change the cost of regearing, but it might change which gearing you choose. Keep in mind that those charts are based off ACTUAL tire measurements and whatever you inflate them to, and not what is stamped on the sidewall.
I don't have a 3.8L myself, but it seems that engine is a lot less sensitive to higher revving rpm's than the 3.6L is.
07-25-2017, 02:39 AM
#32
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Thanks Resharp001
Thanks Resharp001 for your reply!
I will check the link out that you sent me. I have the manual 6speed transmission. Its been raised 2" but not "lifted".
It seems that you are suggesting that I may want to consider going with a larger tire than a 33"? That is just what I was thinking since I will be driving on the road most of the time. I was mainly considering cost (tire price, gas mileage, lift kit) as opposed to looks and ground clearance.
Ideally, I'd like to jack it up 4" and put 37" tires on it, but alas, I'm just a poor working stiff who is paying for two college educations. This is my new baby, but she ain't going to get to go to college! The tires will have to wait until these wear out. The gearing is almost a necessity, just so the Jeep can get out of its own way!
Why would they make this thing so underpowered?
I will check the link out that you sent me. I have the manual 6speed transmission. Its been raised 2" but not "lifted".
It seems that you are suggesting that I may want to consider going with a larger tire than a 33"? That is just what I was thinking since I will be driving on the road most of the time. I was mainly considering cost (tire price, gas mileage, lift kit) as opposed to looks and ground clearance.
Ideally, I'd like to jack it up 4" and put 37" tires on it, but alas, I'm just a poor working stiff who is paying for two college educations. This is my new baby, but she ain't going to get to go to college! The tires will have to wait until these wear out. The gearing is almost a necessity, just so the Jeep can get out of its own way!
Why would they make this thing so underpowered?
your current tire is under 32". You likely have 3.21 stock gearing....slight possibility 3.73s in there, but based on your description, likely 3.21. You don't mention if you have an auto or manual, but here's a link to the 3.8L gear charts -
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...3&d=1333921001
Is a 33" tire what you really want? If you're going to regear, now is the time to decide if 33 will be the ultimate max tire, or if you really want to go to 35s. It's not going to change the cost of regearing, but it might change which gearing you choose. Keep in mind that those charts are based off ACTUAL tire measurements and whatever you inflate them to, and not what is stamped on the sidewall.
I don't have a 3.8L myself, but it seems that engine is a lot less sensitive to higher revving rpm's than the 3.6L is.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...3&d=1333921001
Is a 33" tire what you really want? If you're going to regear, now is the time to decide if 33 will be the ultimate max tire, or if you really want to go to 35s. It's not going to change the cost of regearing, but it might change which gearing you choose. Keep in mind that those charts are based off ACTUAL tire measurements and whatever you inflate them to, and not what is stamped on the sidewall.
I don't have a 3.8L myself, but it seems that engine is a lot less sensitive to higher revving rpm's than the 3.6L is.
07-25-2017, 05:28 AM
#33
JK Jedi
Thanks Resharp001 for your reply!
I will check the link out that you sent me. I have the manual 6speed transmission. Its been raised 2" but not "lifted".
It seems that you are suggesting that I may want to consider going with a larger tire than a 33"? That is just what I was thinking since I will be driving on the road most of the time. I was mainly considering cost (tire price, gas mileage, lift kit) as opposed to looks and ground clearance.
Ideally, I'd like to jack it up 4" and put 37" tires on it, but alas, I'm just a poor working stiff who is paying for two college educations. This is my new baby, but she ain't going to get to go to college! The tires will have to wait until these wear out. The gearing is almost a necessity, just so the Jeep can get out of its own way!
I will check the link out that you sent me. I have the manual 6speed transmission. Its been raised 2" but not "lifted".
It seems that you are suggesting that I may want to consider going with a larger tire than a 33"? That is just what I was thinking since I will be driving on the road most of the time. I was mainly considering cost (tire price, gas mileage, lift kit) as opposed to looks and ground clearance.
Ideally, I'd like to jack it up 4" and put 37" tires on it, but alas, I'm just a poor working stiff who is paying for two college educations. This is my new baby, but she ain't going to get to go to college! The tires will have to wait until these wear out. The gearing is almost a necessity, just so the Jeep can get out of its own way!
Also, if 37s are in your plan, don’t feel like you need to go 4” high. Higher doesn’t mean better. You don’t need that much lift to fit 37s, and the higher you go the more complicated the build gets. With the factory axle having 6* caster built in, you start walking a tight rope between running proper caster and having driveline issues with your driveshaft. Just something to really ponder and read up on. I wouldn’t get caught up in the actual number of the lift. I’d submit to you that a quality dual rated spring will net you more actual lift than a lower end spring for a taller lift (ie. a 3.5" RK or Metalcloak spring compared to a 4" Pro Comp or Rubicon Express). A 3.5” lift is a pretty aggressive stance for most people. At that height you’re already getting in to replacing driveshafts on top of suspension and steering components. 37’s is a big jump, so build it properly along the way. There won’t be anything cheap about it.
One last thing....I don't see where you are located, but depending on market, you might have a lot of pre-owned tire options available out on Craigslist or FB that could be more budget friendly. Nothing wrong with a used tire option if it fits your budget and build.
07-26-2017, 04:02 AM
#34
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Thanks again resharp001
Thanks again Resharp001!
You seem to know your stuff!! I'm thankful that you are willing to take time to help me. You have given me some important things to think about. Right now I am thinking 33", but hopefully I will meet some folks and go off-road one day. I may then want to go "bigger" in tire size?
If I'm going to regear, I might as well be optimistic and plan for that. I wonder how much it would cost to have a shop do the work?
OR
I know I just bought the Jeep, but I wonder if I will ever be happy with the lack of power?
Perhaps I should consider trading it for a JKU with the 3.6 Penstar motor?
I live in Western part of the Piedmont of North Carolina (Hickory).
You seem to know your stuff!! I'm thankful that you are willing to take time to help me. You have given me some important things to think about. Right now I am thinking 33", but hopefully I will meet some folks and go off-road one day. I may then want to go "bigger" in tire size?
If I'm going to regear, I might as well be optimistic and plan for that. I wonder how much it would cost to have a shop do the work?
OR
I know I just bought the Jeep, but I wonder if I will ever be happy with the lack of power?
Perhaps I should consider trading it for a JKU with the 3.6 Penstar motor?
I live in Western part of the Piedmont of North Carolina (Hickory).
I was just suggesting that if you’re going to spend the money to regear, be honest with yourself about where you’ll end up tire wise. Regearing is one of those things that is best done once. If you gear for 33’s, and then decide to throw 37s on, you might end up in the same boat that you’re in now. It would stink to have to regear again later on. Considering you’re raised 2” already, you could fit 35s under there if you wanted. If you really think you’re going to 37s at some point, I’d probably do a 35, regear appropriately with something that would be suitable for both 35s and 37s when you make that jump. It’s obviously not the most fuel efficient thing to do though. There's nothing wrong with 33's if that is what you like/want....I was just thinking about it from a gearing perspective with a longer term view.
Also, if 37s are in your plan, don’t feel like you need to go 4” high. Higher doesn’t mean better. You don’t need that much lift to fit 37s, and the higher you go the more complicated the build gets. With the factory axle having 6* caster built in, you start walking a tight rope between running proper caster and having driveline issues with your driveshaft. Just something to really ponder and read up on. I wouldn’t get caught up in the actual number of the lift. I’d submit to you that a quality dual rated spring will net you more actual lift than a lower end spring for a taller lift (ie. a 3.5" RK or Metalcloak spring compared to a 4" Pro Comp or Rubicon Express). A 3.5” lift is a pretty aggressive stance for most people. At that height you’re already getting in to replacing driveshafts on top of suspension and steering components. 37’s is a big jump, so build it properly along the way. There won’t be anything cheap about it.
One last thing....I don't see where you are located, but depending on market, you might have a lot of pre-owned tire options available out on Craigslist or FB that could be more budget friendly. Nothing wrong with a used tire option if it fits your budget and build.
Also, if 37s are in your plan, don’t feel like you need to go 4” high. Higher doesn’t mean better. You don’t need that much lift to fit 37s, and the higher you go the more complicated the build gets. With the factory axle having 6* caster built in, you start walking a tight rope between running proper caster and having driveline issues with your driveshaft. Just something to really ponder and read up on. I wouldn’t get caught up in the actual number of the lift. I’d submit to you that a quality dual rated spring will net you more actual lift than a lower end spring for a taller lift (ie. a 3.5" RK or Metalcloak spring compared to a 4" Pro Comp or Rubicon Express). A 3.5” lift is a pretty aggressive stance for most people. At that height you’re already getting in to replacing driveshafts on top of suspension and steering components. 37’s is a big jump, so build it properly along the way. There won’t be anything cheap about it.
One last thing....I don't see where you are located, but depending on market, you might have a lot of pre-owned tire options available out on Craigslist or FB that could be more budget friendly. Nothing wrong with a used tire option if it fits your budget and build.
07-26-2017, 04:20 AM
#35
JK Jedi
It varies across the states, but typically you'd be looking ~$1500 +/- $250 to have a shop regear. That includes parts and labor. If you're just going with 33s, regearing will probably make you a lot happier than you currently are. It won't be like adding 100HP or anything, but it will make a big difference. I'd just do that and go have fun with it. The 3.6L is better, but not perfect. Typically get in to regearing with the 3.6L around 35" tires.
07-27-2017, 02:48 AM
#36
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2017
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Many thanks!
Many thanks again resharp001!
People like You are what makes these forums Great!
One day maybe I'll learn enough to Give Back to the Jeep community.
If your ever in my neck of the woods please look me up. I may have found some awesome places to go 4-wheeling by then.
People like You are what makes these forums Great!
One day maybe I'll learn enough to Give Back to the Jeep community.
If your ever in my neck of the woods please look me up. I may have found some awesome places to go 4-wheeling by then.
I was just suggesting that if you’re going to spend the money to regear, be honest with yourself about where you’ll end up tire wise. Regearing is one of those things that is best done once. If you gear for 33’s, and then decide to throw 37s on, you might end up in the same boat that you’re in now. It would stink to have to regear again later on. Considering you’re raised 2” already, you could fit 35s under there if you wanted. If you really think you’re going to 37s at some point, I’d probably do a 35, regear appropriately with something that would be suitable for both 35s and 37s when you make that jump. It’s obviously not the most fuel efficient thing to do though. There's nothing wrong with 33's if that is what you like/want....I was just thinking about it from a gearing perspective with a longer term view.
Also, if 37s are in your plan, don’t feel like you need to go 4” high. Higher doesn’t mean better. You don’t need that much lift to fit 37s, and the higher you go the more complicated the build gets. With the factory axle having 6* caster built in, you start walking a tight rope between running proper caster and having driveline issues with your driveshaft. Just something to really ponder and read up on. I wouldn’t get caught up in the actual number of the lift. I’d submit to you that a quality dual rated spring will net you more actual lift than a lower end spring for a taller lift (ie. a 3.5" RK or Metalcloak spring compared to a 4" Pro Comp or Rubicon Express). A 3.5” lift is a pretty aggressive stance for most people. At that height you’re already getting in to replacing driveshafts on top of suspension and steering components. 37’s is a big jump, so build it properly along the way. There won’t be anything cheap about it.
One last thing....I don't see where you are located, but depending on market, you might have a lot of pre-owned tire options available out on Craigslist or FB that could be more budget friendly. Nothing wrong with a used tire option if it fits your budget and build.
Also, if 37s are in your plan, don’t feel like you need to go 4” high. Higher doesn’t mean better. You don’t need that much lift to fit 37s, and the higher you go the more complicated the build gets. With the factory axle having 6* caster built in, you start walking a tight rope between running proper caster and having driveline issues with your driveshaft. Just something to really ponder and read up on. I wouldn’t get caught up in the actual number of the lift. I’d submit to you that a quality dual rated spring will net you more actual lift than a lower end spring for a taller lift (ie. a 3.5" RK or Metalcloak spring compared to a 4" Pro Comp or Rubicon Express). A 3.5” lift is a pretty aggressive stance for most people. At that height you’re already getting in to replacing driveshafts on top of suspension and steering components. 37’s is a big jump, so build it properly along the way. There won’t be anything cheap about it.
One last thing....I don't see where you are located, but depending on market, you might have a lot of pre-owned tire options available out on Craigslist or FB that could be more budget friendly. Nothing wrong with a used tire option if it fits your budget and build.
It varies across the states, but typically you'd be looking ~$1500 +/- $250 to have a shop regear. That includes parts and labor. If you're just going with 33s, regearing will probably make you a lot happier than you currently are. It won't be like adding 100HP or anything, but it will make a big difference. I'd just do that and go have fun with it. The 3.6L is better, but not perfect. Typically get in to regearing with the 3.6L around 35" tires.
07-28-2017, 05:47 AM
#37
I just bought a used 2008 jk. Ithe has 265/75/16 tires, I'm not sure what that equates to in inches? This jeep is a dog! Like the other guy said, I have to downshift on any type of highway incline. I don't know what rear gearing the Jeep has? I assume it is stock by the way it drives...slooow.
It's going to be 99% on road, at least until I find somewhere to ride offroad in Western N.C..
Any thoughts what gearing I might have now and should go to if I go with 33" tires?
Thanks
It's going to be 99% on road, at least until I find somewhere to ride offroad in Western N.C..
Any thoughts what gearing I might have now and should go to if I go with 33" tires?
Thanks
It's come pretty useful to my trying to figure out my plan for wheels and tires going forward. Your 265/75-16 tires are 31.6 inches tall unmounted. My 275/65-18s are 32.1" tall unmounted. Sitting on the ground, though, they measure 31.5".