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4 door removal

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Old May 6, 2009 | 12:27 AM
  #21  
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From: Milton, Ontario
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Try using something with a blunt end, like a long driver bit extension. Stick it into the bottom of the hinge, where you removed the torx nut, and tap with a hammer to help break apart the pin from the hinges. Do it carefully so you dont damage the threads on the pin. When you are trying to remove the door, put one arm through the window and grab ahold of the armrest. Your other hand should be grabbing onto the bottom of the door, right below the hinges. Pull up while moving the door back and forth.

The first time is a real pain, the doors will come off way easier after this.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #22  
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I would avoid banging on the doors with a hammer at all. If the door is swinging open, it is probably more of a technique problem. You have been wriggling the door back and forth like others suggested right? I remember the first time I tried to take off my doors on my TJ, back in college. I wasn't huge, but a solid 200# muscular at 5'10, and I was yanking those things up so freaking hard I was personally pretty sure I was going to tip the fucker over before they came out. Good 6" travel at least by the sill. Yanked and yanked and ended up more winded than an average workout. Finally I decided to use brains instead of brawn and pulled up while moving them back and forth through their full range of motion. Still absurdly difficult, but then doable. After that first time it was easy. My JK was joke easy. I took off the front two a few weeks ago and pulled up as hard as I could while swinging the driver door open thinking it was going to be like the TJ, just about lost my balance it flew out of there so much faster than I was expecting. LOL. Good luck on getting them out of there.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 02:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rickyj
I would avoid banging on the doors with a hammer at all.


What I suggested was a tap on the end of the door pin. This was suggested by my dealership, and it worked very well for the my fronts (they were not budging). After one tap on each pin, the doors lifted out with ease.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 02:54 AM
  #24  
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You did remove the Torx bolts from all 8 hinges - Right?
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by KJJK


What I suggested was a tap on the end of the door pin. This was suggested by my dealership, and it worked very well for the my fronts (they were not budging). After one tap on each pin, the doors lifted out with ease.


If a hammer is what it takes, that is what it takes. Hell, if you really want the doors off and it ends up you have to get new hinges or something you are going to be willing to do that also. Seems to me like a last resort though. If the door is physically opening and closing, obviously the pins aren't rusted in. The pins also went IN at the factory, so it isn't an issue with taper or something else that is actually physically preventing the doors from being removed.

Again, it is more likely a technique problem. Lift up on the door closer to where the pins are and rotate the door through its full motion. THEN try the hammer.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 07:20 AM
  #26  
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I bedlined the very bottom edge of my doors--just taped off the vertical sides so only the very bottom edge was visible. Now I have scratch-proof "paint" so I can set doors on whatever I want without worry of chipping. Truth of it is... you can't even tell that there's bedliner on the bottom when the doors are mounted. Kind of a nice little cheap easy way to not have to worry about where I put my doors--especially when there's no room in the garage!
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:13 AM
  #27  
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I had the same problem last spring when I tried taking my doors off for the first time that season. I had them on and off many times in summer 2007, so I was very frustrated spring 2008 when they seemed to be frozen onto the hinges! Also when I removed the door bolts I never put them back on.

I eventually got them off by spraying a lot of WD-40 on the hinges and working the door back and forth many, many times. It probably took me an hour before they finally broke loose. Shows the importance of using a good grease between removals and maybe an extra heavy coat before winter time (I'm in Michigan).

I have not tried to remove the doors yet this year but I think it's gonna be easier. I never used any grease going from 2007-2008 but went with a heavy coat before this last winter. I learned my lesson! Good luck!!!
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Old May 8, 2009 | 05:39 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by roketman
Take out your rear floor mats or you're going to be buying new ones (the wind will suck them out). I set them on the garage floor and put the doors on them.



Haha, I noticed mine flapping in the wind while on the freeway! Almost had them fly away.


Originally Posted by Cedo Nulli
You'll notice that you can't shut the stereo off when you park and get out, because there is no door to cut the stereo off. It's funny when people run up to you and go, YOU LEFT YOUR STEREO ON!

It goes off after about a minute or so.


Ya, the funny looks are great! For some reason I always remote start the jeep then unlock the doors. Without the doors on, I'd forget to unlock it. So, when I'd jump in an turn the key, the security system would kill the engine and I look like a big ol'dork out there. haha
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Old May 8, 2009 | 05:51 AM
  #29  
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definitely be sure to put your windows down!
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Old May 8, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #30  
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From: ENGLEWOOD, COLORADO
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still aren't budging....

tons of wd40, nothing.....took it to the dealership, they coulnd tfigure it out, handed me a bottle fo their favorite penetrating oil....nothing.

just broke a rubber mallet in half hitting the hinges....nothing still.

It defies physics. They swing just fine, a little tighter than others but they cant be frozen in there if they swing right?

Blow dryer maybe????
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