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!? 911 electrical help ?! HELP PLEASE

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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 02:02 PM
  #11  
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Well that makes sense. But wouldn't a code show up for that? Am I to replace the battery on a whim? Optima yellow top?

What if... I drop almost $300 on a battery but the issue comes back?


Update... went to advance auto and they ran a system test. Here are the results. I am told all are fine but battery cold cranker amps are 136 ish above what its rated for. It was recommended I remove the alternator and bring it in for a bench test.

Thoughts???


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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 02:19 PM
  #12  
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No, since your battery tested good I'd look elsewhere. Not sure about that testing above spec. Little bit more hassle to pull alternator than battery, but probably a good check to run.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Arctic Blue
Can the battery be tested while hooked up? What should the norm be for an OEM battery after 2 years?



Haven't had the headlight thing...just slight flickering which apparently is normal...



Although a dying battery after two years seems ridiculous, considering my track record with jeep it would not surprise me.



I will have to do this qhen I have mt next stretch of days off. Can't it be tested while on the jeep?

The two codes popped up were high voltage codes...how could this be so if the battery was in fact dying out?

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so you added a power distribution system with part of it under the hood, and you cut a wire from the factory wire loom? And now your having electrical problems...

I can see how the dealer might be apprehensive...

matthew
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthewd5
....so you added a power distribution system with part of it under the hood.....
Rugged ridge a-pillar switch pod is nothing more than a remolded factory a-pillar with switch cutouts. Nothing under the hood.

The esp kill switch is something a ton of people have done and taken it into the dealership without issue (since the system resets when you turn the key off).
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 04:15 PM
  #15  
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Karl thankd.

And Mark, even if it takes me a few hours, I'd rather pull the alternator and have it checked out to be good than to waste time or money elseware only to later realize it was the altenator.

Is it possible a fuse or relay rattled loose with the washboard roads here??

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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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You won't rattle a fuse or relay out of place. It's more probable that you'd break the element inside before it came out of the socket.

Coming and going- it's sounding more like a battery issue. It's tough to make a 100% diagnosis over the internet though.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 04:27 PM
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Tought to make that diagnosis in person too. But if I buy a battery and it still persits then im severely lost. Lol

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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 04:38 PM
  #18  
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If it's the battery then you will have solved the issue, but- putting a new battery in with a weak alternator will work for a little while as though it's fixed then you'll be back in the same boat.

Maybe having everything bench tested is a good way to see what's what.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 05:25 PM
  #19  
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If I bench test the alternator and its fine, then its safer to assume its the battery.

Advanced auto tech said pull the battery to see if there's any bulging.

Also, if the cells were going bad inside the battery that it would create more cold cranking amps.
Should I pull the battery and alternator to take them both in for a bench test??

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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 06:03 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by karls
Rugged ridge a-pillar switch pod is nothing more than a remolded factory a-pillar with switch cutouts. Nothing under the hood.

The esp kill switch is something a ton of people have done and taken it into the dealership without issue (since the system resets when you turn the key off).
I thought it was the pod system with the box under the hood...

matthew
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