Anyone replace a 3.8 intake manifold gasket? Tips?
12-20-2014, 07:53 AM
#11
JK Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Juneau, Alaska
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I didn't touch the gas tank, the fuel lines in engine compartment was the only ones I disconnected. They were a little bit of a pain to remove. Will need a fuel line tool set, the angled ones will work best. These were the toughest part for me.
05-01-2017, 11:50 AM
#12
JK Newbie
Releasing fuel pressure
I always remove the fuel pump relay and start the engine, let it run until it stalls. This will remove any fuel pressure in the line and make it easier to disconnect.
Last edited by kbsvo2go; 05-01-2017 at 11:51 AM. Reason: left out words
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OnBelay (04-21-2019)
01-27-2019, 12:42 PM
#13
I’m in process of doing this one and want to point out “Danger Will Robinson” potential when removing the old lower intake manifold gasket. There are small rectangular plates on either end of the gasket that help seal the ends. They are each secured by one 10mm hex bolt. When you remove the bolts those plates will be loose on the gasket. You should remove each one before pulling off the gasket. They can fall down open cavities directly into the engine and either become lodged in the works, or take up residence in the oil pan. If so you’ll have to remove the oil pan and retrieve the bloody thing. Don’t ask how I know this, just don’t! ;-)
01-28-2019, 10:49 PM
#14
Super Moderator
Click the link below to download the step-by-step guide along with tools used that I created when replacing my LIM gasket.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ca...B7GlrREBtdtitO
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ca...B7GlrREBtdtitO
04-21-2019, 09:01 AM
#16
JK Freak
I’m in process of doing this one and want to point out “Danger Will Robinson” potential when removing the old lower intake manifold gasket. There are small rectangular plates on either end of the gasket that help seal the ends. They are each secured by one 10mm hex bolt. When you remove the bolts those plates will be loose on the gasket. You should remove each one before pulling off the gasket. They can fall down open cavities directly into the engine and either become lodged in the works, or take up residence in the oil pan. If so you’ll have to remove the oil pan and retrieve the bloody thing. Don’t ask how I know this, just don’t! ;-)
Click the link below to download the step-by-step guide along with tools used that I created when replacing my LIM gasket.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ca...B7GlrREBtdtitO
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ca...B7GlrREBtdtitO
04-22-2019, 12:25 AM
#17
Super Moderator
Great tip, thanks!
Saw this exact comment on a YouTube video; I wonder if it was you. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you so much! We are going to attempt this ourselves in a few weeks and will use your write-up as a guide. Part of me wonders whether or not it is more prudent to just buy a new 3.8 and throw that in. The 3.8 crate engine is so cheap and it might be an extra 10 (?) hours. Who knows.
Saw this exact comment on a YouTube video; I wonder if it was you. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you so much! We are going to attempt this ourselves in a few weeks and will use your write-up as a guide. Part of me wonders whether or not it is more prudent to just buy a new 3.8 and throw that in. The 3.8 crate engine is so cheap and it might be an extra 10 (?) hours. Who knows.
For the fuel line removal tool, I just went to HF and got this set which worked fine.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piec...set-96834.html
04-23-2019, 04:01 AM
#18
This fix is going to be a lot less involved than a total long block replacement. Parts are relatively inexpensive, even if you use OEM items. The OEM replacemnt lower intake manifold gasket I received was slightly different than what came off. The pressed indentations around the ports had been eliminated, and there were flexible sealing pads under each end of the valley. The metal clamping plates were securely fastened. About 2,000 miles later it is sealed up tight.
I did this along with a timing chain set and passenger side exhaust manifold replacement. Time consuming but had it gone to the local dealer, which is one step above a high school auto shop, it would have cost over $2,000. The JK has the lifetime powertrain warranty but I woulnd't let those clowns touch anything like this.
I did this along with a timing chain set and passenger side exhaust manifold replacement. Time consuming but had it gone to the local dealer, which is one step above a high school auto shop, it would have cost over $2,000. The JK has the lifetime powertrain warranty but I woulnd't let those clowns touch anything like this.
