Best for Plowing, Rubicon or Saharah?
#1
JK Newbie
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Best for Plowing, Rubicon or Saharah?
Looking for a 2011-2013 4 Door. I Will eventually put a plow on it. I've owned Land Cruisers for over 35 years. Run them till they rust out, but the new ones are pricey. My problem is people tell me to stick with the cheaper Jeep model and modify it versus the more expensive Rubicon. But they are all big pick up truck owners and not familiar with the wrangler. Lockers are great for our Adirondack snows and I will install if not on the vehicle I find.
Are the stock lockers on the Rubicon suffucient or after-market better?
What gear ratios and front axle are better for plowing snow?
I'd appreciate any advice from someone that knows the JK ??
Thanks.
Are the stock lockers on the Rubicon suffucient or after-market better?
What gear ratios and front axle are better for plowing snow?
I'd appreciate any advice from someone that knows the JK ??
Thanks.
#2
JK Super Freak
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Well if you are comparing factory to factory. I'd figure the Rubicon would be better for plowing. You have a lower geared ring and pinion and transfer case as well as lockers front and rear. Hands down that would beat a factory Sahara in traction and pushing power for snow.
#3
JK Super Freak
The factory lockers on the Rubi work the same as any locker.
The lower gearing will help. Lockers will help. Better stock tires will help but you'll probably swap those out anyway
I always laugh when people give advice to buy base model and build. Putting aside the argument of whether or not you can build an X into a Rubi for less that the xtra cost of a rubi, I would ask do you have $10k to spend today vs. financing over the next 3,4 or 5 years?
Buying the Rubi costs more. But most people finance their jeeps. If you want everything the Rubi has, you need cash on hand to spend on upgrading an X or use a charge card which has a higher interest most likely.
I say get the Rubi as it should be better for plowing and the mods you do will not have to begin with expensive axle work like gearing and lockers.
And out of curiosity, what plow are you getting?
The lower gearing will help. Lockers will help. Better stock tires will help but you'll probably swap those out anyway
I always laugh when people give advice to buy base model and build. Putting aside the argument of whether or not you can build an X into a Rubi for less that the xtra cost of a rubi, I would ask do you have $10k to spend today vs. financing over the next 3,4 or 5 years?
Buying the Rubi costs more. But most people finance their jeeps. If you want everything the Rubi has, you need cash on hand to spend on upgrading an X or use a charge card which has a higher interest most likely.
I say get the Rubi as it should be better for plowing and the mods you do will not have to begin with expensive axle work like gearing and lockers.
And out of curiosity, what plow are you getting?
#4
JK Super Freak
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Rubicon hands down. It has front and rear locking Dana 44 axles (just in case) and a lower ratio transfer case. Be sure you get the 4.10 gears and I'd shoot for the 2012-2013, the 2011's still have the old 3.8 engines.
You will want to upgrade the front axle with EVO gussets and sleeves. Throw in some high quality stronger ball joints, Synergy or Alloy USA will hook you up there. Last I'd add some new springs up front to handle the weight of the plow, plus it'll level out the rake.
The new engines put out a lot of heat too, and your plow will block a lot of the fresh cold air coming to it. An electric fan upgrade or an AEV heat reduction hood might be another worthwhile addition.
You will want to upgrade the front axle with EVO gussets and sleeves. Throw in some high quality stronger ball joints, Synergy or Alloy USA will hook you up there. Last I'd add some new springs up front to handle the weight of the plow, plus it'll level out the rake.
The new engines put out a lot of heat too, and your plow will block a lot of the fresh cold air coming to it. An electric fan upgrade or an AEV heat reduction hood might be another worthwhile addition.
Last edited by Tripletsi; 10-16-2012 at 06:57 AM.
#5
Would a locker really be better than limited slip in snow? I would think you would be pushing a tire around locked instead of getting better traction. I'm no expert as I've never driven locked in snow but I'm interested.
#7
JK Newbie
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Thanks for the quick replies. Sounds like you all like the Rubicon.
The lockers will be a big help when the plow gets hung up, on ice, and when the snow piles up under the frame. Just lock the diffs to get un-stuck.
(I'll still keep my '71 FJ40 for back up).
Now I just need to find a good deal on one.
Teachderf.
The lockers will be a big help when the plow gets hung up, on ice, and when the snow piles up under the frame. Just lock the diffs to get un-stuck.
(I'll still keep my '71 FJ40 for back up).
Now I just need to find a good deal on one.
Teachderf.
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#9
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[HR][/HR]limited slip diff only transfers X% of torque from one wheel to another. if there is no contact under one wheel (i.e. on ice or slippery snow), there is no torque there and thus no torque to be transferred = the vehicle will get stuck. whereas in case of lockers, both wheels will get same amount of torgue no matter what, so they will turn even on ice and the vehicle is more likely not to get stuck...