any write ups out there for changing out the rear brake pads?
any write up for changing out the front brake pads?

i ask about the rear cause i was in a deep mudhole (stuck) and after i got out my brakes were sqeeling bad and after some time (5min) it went away but when the vehicles moving and i go into a slow turn like a parking lot in first gear i hear some weird lite scratching /rubbing coming from the rear driver wheel and i took off the tire and there was a rock wedged in there which i got out but the noise is still there just a lil lighter. i tried pulling off the caliper but changed my mind, i figure better wait till i get some instructions....

 

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
3. Drain small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with a clean suction gun.
4. Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by prying the caliper over.
5. Remove brake hose banjo bolt (3) and discard gasket washers.
6. Remove the caliper slide pins (2).
7. Remove caliper from the adapter.
8. Remove the brake pads.

 

It's just like changing the brake pads on any other disc brake vehicle. Just make sure you have the right pads and some grease and cleaner, and follow the above instructions. The only thing I'd say in addition is the part about draining the brake fluid...you don't always need to do that. Nothing a C clamp can't handle...but that's just me.

 

The only reason that is in there is because it is straight out of the service manual, I never even noticed it. I got one better than a C-clamp that was the best 25 I ever spent (I also do a lot of side work, I wasn't always the po po)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

 

Those are instructions on how to competely remove the caliper like if you were going to replace it also.

I would guess to do the pads it's nothing more than remove the 2 bolts, pull the caliper, change pads, and stick it back together.

If you pull the banjo bolt you'll have to bleed the brake system.


From the manual. . .

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Compress the caliper.
4. Remove the caliper (I.E. pull the 2 slide pins.)
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper assembly.
5. Support and hang the caliper.
6. Remove the inboard brake pad (3) from the caliper adapter (1).
7. Remove the outboard brake pad (4) from the caliper adapter (1).

 

You are right, sorry was on the wrong page right area.

 

Added photos for Hip2u77's post

 

Shoup's 2nd picture showed the caliper piston tools from harbor freight, I've got a set just like it. Many post-88 vehicle's caliper pistons cannot be retracted without turning the piston at the same time pressure is applied to the piston. You can do it without the tool, apply light pressure with a ''C'' clamp and at the same time turning the piston with water pump pliers- be damned careful not to snag the rubber dust boot around the piston. You are better off spending the $20.00 for the tool....as the piston compresses the ''C'' clamp will loosen, just tighten the clamp again and keep going till the piston is flush with the caliper face. remember the anti-sqeak compound, sometimes new pads don't come with it. If the rotors are unscored I would not turn them, as thin as these rotors are now turning them makes them likely to warp the first time your hot rotors hit a puddle, causing an irritating ''pulse'' in your brake pedal.

 

man i'm a cheap buzzard and luv working on my own vehicles. i used a c clamp all along. after seeing this, for $25 i'm sold! thanks for posting this!

 

While you're there you might pick up the roll pin kit also. Both times I've used the kit on rear calipers the roll pin got loose and fell out. Without the pin you can push, but not turn the piston.

(The end opposite the T-handle is held by the roll pin)