Seizer

Changed my front axle seals. I won't get into that fricking nightmare of time I had. I broke the right sensor off completely flush into the hub bearing unit. Only thought I had was to drill it and try and easy out the sucker. Or should I just get a new hub? Also now that's it throwing ABS, ESP, and BAS on the dash display will I need to hook up a scan tool to clear it? Thanks for your thoughts.

karls10jk

Some people have had luck using a pilot hole and then a wood screw to extract the remnants. I haven't run into it yet. Best of luck.

resharp001

That is the kind of crap that is so frustrating, and turns what should be a simple couple hour job in to a royal PITA. I'd think drilling and an easy out should work. I'd sure give it a lot of effort before considering a full bearing replacement.

Dare I ask how that happened? Just get a little careless trying to remove it?

You might try this method as well.....similar but using some heat to set the screw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvjYoK_lo5g Also looks like some drill hole, and just use a piece of wire with drop of epoxy on the end to set it in the sensor....let cure, pull out.

larry0071

Your being from texas, you likely don't know the pain of us in the snow belt regions of the country... But this is fairly common where the salt and other de-ice chemicals corrode the material around the plastic sensor and squeeze/trap it into the bearing assembly. When you try to get it out or to at least spin, the plastic simply shears and your screwed. Then you are left with a smoking turd to deal with. You may as well go ahead and do all you can do to remove the seized part of the sensor, because option B is to replace the hub assembly if you fail or if you screw it up.

When you replace the sensor, use waterproof marine grade grease on the sides of the sensor to at least give yourself a fighting chance next time.

resharp001

What a pain. The heat is a real beating in the summer here, but yes, so happy to not have to deal with rust and stuff like this.

Seizer

I was surprised too. Left side popped right out with the same technique I used on the RH side. Worked a small pick under the bolt flange, moved to very small standard screw driver. I kept wiggling lightly by hand and snap.

Couple of hours job. Yeah I wish. All I read and watched on changing those seals, I figured oh I can do this fairly quickly. Not in 2-3 hours time since this is my first attempt. FFS it took me 12 hours. Tie rod end joint would not stop spinning. So I cut the nut, well now I need a new tie rod end. ABS breaks ugh!! Screw it for now I'll get the job done. Had such a hard time pulling the carrier out, that took way too long. Seal removal! Easy peasy! Seal install FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU UUUUUUU! I made the threaded rod tool, but the damn thing would not install the seals square. So a trip to Advance for the 36mm socket. Hitting it with a broom stick.........nope... Anyways neighbor helped me finally get the new seals in. God I hope they don't leak cause I had to knock em out several times cause they were not going in square. I haven't even changed the tie rod end yet. I have to work late so maybe this weekend I can get that fixed.
I took your advice Resharp about just changing them instead of working on used axle.


This. It came from the rust belt of Pittsburgh, PA. It happened to actually eat away the driver side floor pan that a fab shop is going to be cutting it out and welding in a new piece in a few weeks. My pitman arm....yeesh let's say I hope I don't have to touch that, but overall the corrosion on the vehicle isn't too terrible.


Thanks for the advice on getting the ABS sensor out. Will I need to hook a scan tool up to the vehicle to clear out the dash board messaging? Or can I do the battery negative cable for 20 minutes?

resharp001

This little baby right here makes quick work of those seals -

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-YT-SA-0.../dp/B0078U9NNU

Typically the socket with super long extension through the axle tube works well enough....but typically a 2-person job that way as one taps and the other holds it aligned properly.

Sorry it didn't go smoothly. There was no way for you to hold the TR stud to keep it from spinning? There should have been some method to hold the stud...usually with an allen wrench in the top of the stud, or a flat notch to hold with a wrench as you turn the nut with another. I've pulled carriers on D30s and Rubi 44's with no issues. never seems to be much resistance coming out. Maybe you just got the one that was gonna be difficult.

I thought you ended up finding a built D30 after all and were going to work on that? Did you just get tired of the leak?

resharp001

Not to highjack the thread, but looks like I'm running to Florissant Aug 23 - 27. I'll probably run Eagle Rock and Saran Wrap trails there in Colorado Springs if you cared to join.....since not far away.

Seizer

Oh wow nice tool. $100 bucks though? Hmm, $100 maybe worth my sanity! If I change seals again I probably will buy that.

I tried my best with the Allen wrench, too loose did not have the exact size wrench. I jammed my pickle fork in hoping to wedge no luck. Jacked the ball joint end, pry bar the hell out of it and no luck. That's when I just cut it. At least the new Moog replacement has a zerk fitting.

I am working on that axle slowly. Yes I just got tired of the leak. It got worse after we hit Georgia, Mosquito, and Weston passes. I'm almost wondering if by chance, since the previous owner didn't wheel, that the axle maybe slightly bent. I did not notice any new metal or flaking paint near diff housing. The old seals did have small tears in the rubber and it also looked like they were not fully seated into the axle housing. Time will tell.

Yep I am game Resharp. I'll send you a PM. Saran Wrap you think I can handle that stock?



No idea on the scan tool to clear the Christmas tree on the dash?

resharp001

I bought that tool once to help change in my garage. It was the first time I had pulled rubi locker out and I wanted to make the job as smooth as possible so I ponied up for that. When done with it, sold it to the next guy for a small loss which I just chalked up as a rental. Heck, Autozone might even have a press in their rental program. Second time was during regear and just used extensions and tap method through the tube.

Those tears could just be someone being a little careless reinstalling axle shafts in the past, and nicking the seal along the way. That's pretty common. Could just be normal wear and tear. Will presume you greased the splines and shaft where the seal would hit prior to re-inserting right?

I've actually never run Saran Wrap....I typically just go run Eagle Rock real quick while in the area but figured if you wanted to shoot down I'd be willing to run a couple more. I don't believe Saran Wrap is very aggressive though. Eagle Rock might be interesting for stock, but I can't imagine any issues. Worst case is I give you a little pull up something. I'll look in to a few more trails there in the Cheyenne Mountain area as well. Will PM you back.