Rednroll

Ok, I got the metal tab bent out of the way but the broken bolt is a tad too long to lift the manifold off because they're threaded in on an angle.

So what's the best way to get a broken bolt out?

resharp001

This sounds like something that would happen to me....and it's this kinda stuff that really sets you back. The obvious drilling and using an easy out isn't an option on that bolt?

Rednroll

That's where I'm currently at. I took a break to cool off a bit and think of some options to try. I'm thinking of some options but they all come with some potential problems.

Option 1: Drill into center of bolt with a smaller drill bit, then see if I have any reverse taps to thread in and hope I can break the bolt loose, where I can back that bolt out. I'm not sure if I have any easy outs but will check. The problem here is that the fuel rail causes interference with my drill, where I need a small drill bit, but one that's also long enough so the chuck of my drill doesn't interfere with the fuel rail which is kind of an unlikely scenario. It's like I need some type of drill bit extension to clear that fuel rail.

Option 2: Take a larger diameter drill bit and start drilling down the bolt until the bolt is ground down enough that the manifold will clear it. I actually started doing this but was afraid the sides of the bit were going to start chewing on the walls of the manifold mounting hole. Then I've got to be worried about not scratching any of the mating surface of the manifold on what is left of the bolt when lifting it out, but leaving enough of that bolt where I can get a vise grip on it to back it out of the engine block.

Option 3: I can lift the manifold up enough, so there is about a 1/4" gap between the mating surfaces of the manifold and the block, where I can see the bolt within that 1/4in gap. I can try to use some type of hack saw to reach between that gap to cut thorough that bolt. Again here, I have to be concerned with damaging the mating surfaces with the saw, as well as leaving myself enough bolt to be able to get a vise grip on it to get it out of the block and there isn't much clearance to get a saw blade in there due to the thermostat housing being right there.


Going to start with option 1. Time to go see if I have a reverse tap or easy out in any of my tap and die sets.


I'm really scratching my head and wondering, "How the hell did that bolt ever get broken in the 1st place?" Did this happen at the factory where a worker broke the bolt when they were originally torquing down the manifold? These bolts are only supposed to be torqued down to 200 in-lbs, so that seems very unlikely and it seems unlikely I could get 139K miles on the engine before a coolant leak problem happened. Did the bolt get corroded, weakened and snapped when I hit a bump driving?

Although this really sucks, I guess I can look at the bright side. If this would have happened with any of the other manifold bolts, pulling the engine would likely be my only option since they're buried down inside of the manifold.


This is me on this repair right about now.

Rednroll

After evaluating what tools I currently have available, I'm now leaning towards option 3.

Here's what that situation looks like.


Here's the 1/4" gap I have to work with, where you can see the bolt inbetween there.


Then thinking about trying to cut through that bolt like this, and hope I still have enough bolt left on the block side to be able to get a vise grip on it to get it out, where I guess at that point, if I don't then I could always fall back to option 1 and go pick up a set of easy outs.



I might go with a hand hack saw as well. Probably safer to help prevent damage to the manifold. This just sucks!!!

Rednroll

Well half way home on this manifold bolt situation!!!

Apparently, I just needed the right tool for the job. I had to break out the San Quinton skill set and make me a shank to cut that bolt.

The right tool shown with the piece of bolt that was keeping me from removing the manifold


Now getting the rest of the bolt out of the block will have to wait until tomorrow. I want to go to bed on a happy note and the way my luck is going, I'm hoping tomorrow will be a better day. Sprayed it down with some WD-40 and will say my prayers that it will come out once I lock the vise grips on that nub of bolt. I also found where the top part of that broken bolt was hanging out once I got the manifold off. It's sitting right there behind that electrical connector.

Mark Doiron

Wow, what a hassle. When I was replacing my driver side exhaust manifold there was a broken bolt--that last one to the rear--that was very difficult to reach. But not quite as difficult as what you're experiencing. A right-angle drill and short bits along with an Easy-out and it came right out. Good for you that you got it done, and hope that the rest of the job goes smoothly.

Seizer

Oh man that broken bolt sure does stink. Rednroll did you not disconnect the injectors like that fellow did in the youtube video you posted? I am just curious for someday when I may have to do this job myself.

I am glad you had success with your prison shank. For the life of me I cannot remember where you get one, but I was thinking field surgeon bone saw. It's like a garrote but I think the steel wire is imbedded with either carborundum or some kind of diamond grit. Easily slip it around the bolt and work it back forth. Moot point now. Hope you are successful with the easy out. Lowes used to sell a tool called a Gra-Bit for removing broken bolts and screws. It worked pretty darn well, but it was short. You might have to find 6" or 12" drill bits though if you don't have access to an angle drill.

Rednroll

Fortunately, there was still enough bolt sticking out of the block that I was able to get the rest of it using a pair of vise grips.

I went to a dealership to pick up a replacement bolt. They didn't have any in stock, and then I had to drive 1.5 hours round trip to the closest dealership that did have it in stock. All that for a $2.00 bolt.

I didn't have to take off the fuel injector connections. The large connector he shows disconnecting, is the other end of all the individual fuel injector wire connections on the manifold side. So alls you have to do is disconnect that large connector and that entire wire harness comes out with the manifold assembly.

I'm currently cleaning up the engine and all the mating surfaces of where that lower manifold gasket goes, then I'm going to replace some wire looms that look like they've gotten destroyed by heat....then it's time to put it all back together.

karls10jk

Aside from the broken bolt and trip to get a new one, doesn't seem like it's taking you long to knock this one out. Is there any special lubricant for those studs to stay seated in the block?

Seizer

Yuck 1.5 drive for a bolt, but at least you got it. If you're not chomping at the bit to get it back together, I recommend using this stuff for wire protection.

https://www.brownaircraft.com/category-s/92.htm

This stuff takes heat very well. We use it often near hot aircraft engine bleed air lines. Those temps get pretty high and this stuff holds up. Just a future thought if you need to repair wire protection.