D44 housing...what else?
You will be able to re-use the 32sp outer shafts also. You will need to buy the 30sp inner shafts.
Unless you can find a smoking deal on a used rubi locker, expect to dump about $1200 on that alone. Plus the wiring/switches for it.
A better option would be to get a 35sp ARB locker and new 35sp shafts. It will bit a few hundred more than a new factory locker (maybe the same as a factory locker and inner shafts?), but will be a much, much better use of the money.
And if you haven't already, look into outer sleeves and gussets also. (inner sleeves will interfere with the 35sp shafts, if you choose to go that route)
Unless you can find a smoking deal on a used rubi locker, expect to dump about $1200 on that alone. Plus the wiring/switches for it.
A better option would be to get a 35sp ARB locker and new 35sp shafts. It will bit a few hundred more than a new factory locker (maybe the same as a factory locker and inner shafts?), but will be a much, much better use of the money.
And if you haven't already, look into outer sleeves and gussets also. (inner sleeves will interfere with the 35sp shafts, if you choose to go that route)
Great deal. IF!!! you can verify that it is in good shape, and IF your installer doesn't break it trying to get it in. A lot of them are being replaced because they stop working, and a lot more are being damaged by installers that don't really know what they are doing.
There are a lot of threads on the install issues, with some things to watch out for. Do yourself a favor and read through a few of them, and maybe even print some of it and take it to your installer. I never really paid a lot of attention to those threads, but the inner wiring and the plunger position are two of the normal gotcha's.
As far as I know, they are not rebuildable, and a new 'front' replacement is around $1200
There are a lot of threads on the install issues, with some things to watch out for. Do yourself a favor and read through a few of them, and maybe even print some of it and take it to your installer. I never really paid a lot of attention to those threads, but the inner wiring and the plunger position are two of the normal gotcha's.
As far as I know, they are not rebuildable, and a new 'front' replacement is around $1200
Great thread. How's the build going? How much $$ is invested so far? I'm wondering if it will be a great deal cheaper than a ProRock 44? Sure hope it is. If nothing else than for your sake.
Ok, so I recently "beefed up" my D44 front end on my Rubicon and the whole thing ran me about $7k. I did everything I could think of with the exception of not buying a PR44. I did C gussetts, EVO 44 magnum inner sleeves, RCV axles, Currie tie rod, PSC full hydro assist with oil cooler, 5.13 gears, Reid Knuckles, Dynatrac ball joints, TF drag link/HD frame brace, TF monster track bar, and with a new axle end HD track bar bracket, I'm running a stellar high steer setup. Take into account I already had a rubicon so lockers were on there. This price is IMO about as good as it gets so if you factor in the additional stuff, well, you can do the math. Good luck
The axle was probably in the $2500 range and I had it done by an offroad shop, that would be inner sleeves, c gussets and axles (hardware and labor). I'm not including the gearing but that in itself ran about $1200.
There are 2 parts of a front axle shaft, connected by a u-joint at the knuckle assembly. The inner part for the Rubicon 44 is 30 spline, and the outer part (that connects to the wheel bearing) is a 32 spline for both the 44 and the 30. If i remember correctly the 30 inner shaft is a different diameter and a 27 spline shaft.
There are 2 parts of a front axle shaft, connected by a u-joint at the knuckle assembly. The inner part for the Rubicon 44 is 30 spline, and the outer part (that connects to the wheel bearing) is a 32 spline for both the 44 and the 30. If i remember correctly the 30 inner shaft is a different diameter and a 27 spline shaft.
Cost so far: $350 for housing,
$150 for axle shafts (I just found on craigslist)



