resharp001

If those TB bushings were that bad, that was indeed enough to do it. That's essentially like having a loose bolt as the bushing is letting the bar move way too much. I can't tell if you've inspected the bracket thoroughly. Make sure the hole in the frame side bracket is not wallowed out at all.....inspect both the front and rear of that bracket. Also, make sure that you torque that new TB down to 125 ft lbs both axle and frame side. Considering your use, the skyjacker should suffice as a budget friendly replacement as long as it can be set to the stock length.

varack

The brackets on both the drivers and axle side look to be ok with very little to no wallowing.

Since I'm putting new hardware in I'm going to use a washer as well as a little extra reinforcement as it looks like the stock bolt head made a nice impression into the metal.

Last question: should the track bar be able to fall out of the bracket with ease when removing the bolts? Removed them on the ground and it just flopped right out when the bolts were removed

resharp001

It's been forever since I've removed a factory TB and don't recall how snug they are. Every aftermarket TB I've touched was a pretty tight fit getting it up in to the bracket.

If possible, it would really help to weld those washers (even if just a few solid tacks) to the bracket to help reinforce the hole.

varack

UPDATE: The track bar was finally delivered and I will install it tonight along with 9/16" Grade 8 bolts.

I also may have to order 2 Lower Controls Arms as I noticed the bushing was wallowed out from the threaded 14mm Bolts. As of right now I will put 9/16" Grade 8 bolts as well there

varack

10/27/17 UPDATE:

So last night I installed the Track Bar and torqued to spec. I also removed the bolts from the lower control arm and noticed the following:

The bushings were actually OK. However the torque specs were FUBAR!

Driver Lower Control Arm:
Bolt to Body - 130 ft lbs
Bolt to Axel - >30 ft lbs

Passenger Lower Control Arm:
Bolt to Body - 130 ft lbs
Bolt to Axel - >30 ft lbs

In order to get the passenger lower control arm bolts to line up I needed to push the passenger side of the axle back about 3/4". The passenger side saw wallowing at the body but not on the axle. I may need to have a welder come in and weld the washers to the frame.

I think I may have found all of the problems surrounding the Death Wobble. I installed all Grade 8 9/16" bolts for the controls arms and torqued to 130 ft lbs along with the track bar. Now, the alignment is very off as in pulling hard to the right. In order to drive in a straight line I need to have the wheel turned left to the 10 o'clock position.

Question: When alignments are performed do they need to loosen the lower control arm bolts going to the axle? Or could this just be a case of extreme slop that was finally corrected after putting all the bolts back in?

I took it for a test drive for about 5 miles hitting all manhole covers and bumps I could find at 65-70 mph. Does not feel like there is a wobble anymore or trying to start the wobble. However, it is undrivable until I put new tires on and get an alignment. Furthermore, the handeling seems to have stiffened up SIGNIFICANTLY and I feel I may have to learn how to drive it again!

Note: the 135,000 miles I have on the jeep are pretty much all NYC traffic hitting all potholes and bumps (Cross Bronx Expressway I-95)

I am wondering since there was so much slop that it was actually unable to cause a Death Wobble and after correcting everything with new components, the DW could happen because the tie rods and drag links were trying to correct it.

jedg

No need for a shop to loosen the control arm bolts for an alignment as the only thing they can adjust is toe. There is no camber adjustment and, unless you have adjustable control arms, no caster adjustment.

Glad you solved your problem!

resharp001

Little confused by this question. It sounds like your LCA bolts on the axle side were way undertorqued. As Jedg said....no reason anyone would have needed to touch those for an alignment. Surprising those worked looser, but 135k on a stock suspension....guess anything could happen. One aspect of a stock vehicle is probably just that......us modified guys are always down there monkying around with things, and checking/retorquing things is a lot more regular maintenance for us.....vs. stock you don't really think about that stuff as much. Since you haven't messed around with it....there's a lot less reason it should be loose.

I'd grab an alignment to make sure your toe is correct, and get a reading on your caster. The length of that passenger side arm didn't change at all, so it's likely you had to line the bolt back up just cuz the axle moved a bit when you removed it (ie. the axle is right where it was before still).

All-in-all, it sounds like you finally nailed down the problem. Hopefully you'll be problem free for another 135k miles!