mfrank84

I've bought a 2011 Unlimited Sport three years ago right after Thanksgiving. I had to wait until the first of the year to install my auxillary cooler. At the same time I added an Magnafine in-line filter to the tranny lines I tapped into (approx 1500 miles at the time). My question: For those who have dropped the pan and changed the filter, what condition was the filter in. I'm at 36k right now. I was wondering since I put that extra filter in would I be safe with just replacing it again and doing a poor man's flush with new fluid and leaving the factory filter alone? I'm grappling with the hastle of fighting those three rear bolts under the exhaust. I know I can get them off ok since I did a trial run on them. My concern is getting them back on without screwing up the threads/cross threading. Also, if I drop the pan, would I be safe using something other than RTV, i.e. rubber gaskets, maybe even a Lube Locker. I've read all I have found via search and I'm still undecided. I've also seen several great write-ups but can't decide and if I drop the pan I only want to fight those bolts one time. Thanks.

Jiblet

Since you got the magnafine filter in so early, I'd guess it has done a better job than the pan filter would have done anyway.

I've had an aux cooler on my '08 at around 5k miles but I didn't drop the pan for a filter change until 60k. I didn't dissect the filter when I changed it but I was a bit surprised that the filter seemed sort of flimsy. I regret not saving it and cutting it open.

Since I've seen the pan filter I picked up a magnafine filter and installed it ASAP.

The partial ATF+4 change made a remarkable difference in the feel of the transmission. I am amazed at the difference. The fluid I removed did not appear or smell burnt at all. It was still fairly brightly colored, just slightly darker than fresh fluid.

I plan to do more partial changes of the fluid with an extraction pump from the filler tube. I think with the magnafine filter changed every year or two and a partial fluid change every year I will be leaving the pan filter alone for quite a while, maybe another 5 years.

Have you changed your magnafine filter? Did you or will you open it up? I think the condition of that will tell you what you want to know. If the magnafine is in good shape you can probably safely go without changing that pan filter.

They say (on BITOG) that the early wear on the trans is when the filtration is most important. Since you got the magnafine filter on so early your pan filter may not have had to catch much anyway.

spartan99

First off well done by making your Trans a priority. Most people focus on engines and fail to realize the significance of a healthy Trans.

Drop the pan so you can install a drain plug because draining the Trans only releases a third of the fluid each time. It takes three Trans fluid changes to totally replace all the fluid and a plug makes it much easier. I do a Trans fluid chane with each oil change.

ronjenx

This has made the three bolts much easier. It removes the need to get a straight shot on them with the wrench.





An external filter is fine. But, I would still drop the pan to change the OEM filter each time.
I have added a drain plug to make the job much less messy.

RTV makes an effective seal, without causing the pan to distort at each bolt hole. Using a rubber gasket can cause distortion under the bolt heads as the rubber gets squeezed.

mfrank84

Thanks Spartan. I'm an admitted maintenance freak. Besides, at my age it gives me something to do. Jiblet, I changed the magnefine filter this morning. It also gave me the chance to rework some of the plumbing from the cooler install that was bothering me. All is good now. I did unscrew the old magnefine to see what was going on inside. I could tell the filter was working as it should. The filter media was lightly colored, and I didn't see any type of debris on it at all. The magnet was lighlty coated. I was very pleased. Ronjnex, is that a wobble extension (if not what's that called) and do you have the specs for the bolt you used and where you got them? As I said earlier, getting the three screws under the exhaust out wouldn't be a problem as I had a 1/4" socket with a universal on all three. My concern was getting them back on without messing up the RTV before I could get them on and tightened down. Just for kicks I called the two local Jeep dealerships for a price on a pan drop and filter change. One wanted $165 and the other wanted $170. Needless to say, if it gets done, I'll be doing it. Thanks again for the input.

ronjenx

As seen in the photo, it's an allen wrench with a rounded tip on the long end. I bought a set at Lowe's.

The screws are allen head cap screws, also from Lowe's. Take an OEM bolt for a sample.

The combination of wrench and cap screw makes installing them quick and easy. RTV set-up time is plenty long enough.
It has worked on the last four transmissions I have serviced.

mfrank84

Thanks Ronjenx. Looked up the allen wrenches. I think they are call Ball Head Hex Wrenches. If I can keep my wife's car tomorrow, I'll try to drop the pan. I'm also going to drill a hole and weld a nut on the bottom of the pan for future drains. At the risk of sounding redundant, you say it's pretty easy getting the screws back in with the set up you posted? Also, what kind of RTV did you use (Mopar, Loctite, Permatex etc...) You guys are great. Thanks for the help.

ronjenx

The screws will start with a little wiggling as you turn the wrench.
I used the MOPAR RTV, and Mopar thread sealer on one screw, because I was already at the parts desk buying the filter.



There is a low spot in the pan where the drain plug should go.

spartan99

I use a gasket and a non-petroleum grease rather than RTV and it works great. No leaks.

mfrank84

Well, a wrench was thrown into my plans. Due to mobile logistics (getting my wife's car) I'm postponing my pan drop and filter change. Wife's co-worker went into labor meaning my wife can't give up her car for the next couple of weeks. Frustrated, I went ahead and did a poor man's flush with 10 qts +4 ATF since I had the fluid on hand and my wife could help last evening. Not what I wanted, but with the excellent condition of the in-line filter with 33k miles on it I replaced, I felt comfortable postponing it. Probably looking at doing the drop and filter change at 50k which will give me a little time for pre-planning, something I didn't take into consideration this time and I'll just do a drain and fill at the filter change. I even picked up a set of box head allen wrenches Ronjenx recommended. Got them at Home depot for around $15. Didn't get the cap head screws when I was there since I didn't have the proper size. But I'll get the right size and pick them up now so I'll have them on hand when the time comes. Only thing I'm undecided about now is what method to use for the gasket, RTV or gasket. I'm good with either one as long as it doesn't leak. Spartan99, I'm curious what kind of non-petroleum grease you used (Super Lube, dielectric grease, etc....). Thanks again for all the help and sugestions.