Engine dismantle and rebuild
 

OK, Im looking for tips and advice from anyone who has rebuilt the 3.8. I just got mine back from the stealership who were nice enough to take the motor out for me. Basically they said the issue is a bent push rod due to water damage, which is bullshit because I really doubt a jeep can get water damage so bad that the engine gets damaged from just a puddle (literally, a rain puddle). Anyways, I have an account at AllDataDIY.com and I have some papers and knowledge I can refer to but I just need some tips and clues that'll make the job easier as this is the first time I'll be going inside the 3.8.

The motor is in the back of the jeep on a palette and all parts are stripped except the valve covers and heads and EGR valve. I'll be pulling those off and draining the motor probably thursday and friday as I dont have to go to work. I have all the tools I'll need apart from a pneumatic setup and an engine hoist, but I have friends and beer so that'll be easily fixed.

Anyways, thanks for any help you guys offer and hopefully I'll be back on the road soon. Two months of driving my wife's santa fe is getting gay. Peace.

Interested in how your build works out. Maybe get a few more horses out when done.

Take pictures of everything, and label anything you remove so you know exactly where it goes. Including bolts.

If you are breaking it completely down check out the piston rings. I know a lot of people have burning oil issues, and it may be a good opportunity to check and replace them.

If you plan on saving any component be sure to clean it really good and oil it so it doesn't get rusty. I ran into that problem many years ago on a 351C rebuild, bad news. I just put some motor oil in a large plastic bag and soaked them in it pretty good and let it sit in there. It wasn't filled maybe just coated the entire inside of the bag, the part, and a small puddle from what had drained off. This may not be the best plan, but I've done far more ignorant things.

I would take the route of "if it may need to be replaced in the future" I'll go ahead and put a new one in it now. Bearings, bushings, seals, rings, gaskets. Do it while its out and accessible. I'm sure there are far more knowledgeable out there than myself. This is all just my opinion.

Check out the website in the link below; all the information you need about the changes to the blocks and components over the different years of production as well as a lot of little snippets of essential information not covered in many workshop manuals.


Rebuilding the Chrysler 3.3L/3.8L Engine: Engine Builder

Good link with good info, thanks man. As far as the bag with oil, I was thinking the same thing before you posted it :). As far as internal components are concerned, what's a good source for quality parts, apart from dealerships? Ive seen things on Morris4x4center.com but have yet to really look anywhere else.

More info
 

Is the engine locked up? A bent pushrod doesn't require total engine teardown. If anything a bent connecting rod is your most likely result from water entry. Only the damaged part is required to be replaced. Other rings, bearings etc have not degraded just because a small amount of water has damaged a component of the engine.Any local auto parts store will carry comparable engine repair parts, a ''rebuild kit'' in standard sizes is probably available now for the 3.8. I personally would consider a reman ''long block assembly'', Block and heads (with your intake and accessories installed). In the end about the same amount of money with better results and less work. A teacup amount of water will lock up an engine if ingested into a cylinder with closed valves. Liquid cannot be compressed, hence the rotating mass of engine parts will give at its weakest point, usually one of the connecting rods. By the way, the average dealership will not do much customer pay engine rebuilding, it's cheaper for them to drop a factory reman engine in, plus the engine company will warranty the engine. Many engines are replaced for very minor reasons. Try Jaspermotor.com- $1295.00 for guaranteed 3.8 engines up to 2010 models.:beer:

The motor isnt locked but definitely hard to roll. I havent yet opened it up but I plan on doing it as soon as my family goes back home. As far as a re-manufactured motor goes, I plan on avoiding that whole scenario if the damage isnt detrimental at all. If it is just the rods I plan on replacing those and inspecting the cam shaft and heads for any additional damage, but I cant see the damage being too horribly bad as I've never forded in the jeep. Rain puddles and some mud, but never anything past the beads on the tires.

Also, I cant yet post things in the for sale section but I Have a 3inch lift kit for a TJ that I'd like to sell, just not sure if Im going to get in trouble for posting it here. Send me a PM if any one you know is interested.

Have you called your insurance company. They might take care of it.

SO, all the rods are straight with no scratches or twisting to them. The engine rotates by hand easily enough with the heads off and I can hear the draw of the vacuum with the heads on. I didnt see any signs of water damage just yet, but I do have the heads off and everything moves like it should and the pistons are looking good as well as the valves. Still no idea why it's all fucked up. I really dont want to continue with exploratory surgery as it doesnt seem like Im going to find anything mechanically wrong. Im thinking the PCM might have taken a shit and the dealership who looked at it are retarded. Oh the humanity.

The dealership who looked at it are retarded. Oh the humanity.[/QUOTE]

That may very well be the problem right there.