fray

Ok. So I'm attempting to pull the old oil consuming engine out -- but I'm stuck on the 4 transmission bolts.

Can someone give me a clue how to remove them?

I'm currently thinking I need to go buy some swivel sockets, extensions and possibly even a more powerful impact gun. For bolts that are theoretically on at 30 ft. lbs.. He-man must have done then 'hand tight'..


Also, now that I'm getting close to pulling the engine (if I can get those 4 bolts out).. I'm trying to figure out the bast way to attach the engine hoist. All of the videos and pictures of people pulling the engines always show someone leaning over the engine.. cut to the engine is out of the vehicle! Nobody shows HOW they attach the hoist to the engine. Any clue would be helpful here as well.

Thanks!

karls10jk

You've pulled the driveshafts, separated the transfer case, and going from there- correct? It's much easier to handle without the TC and makes access easier. But basically yes to a swivel and long extensions. You can about tip the transmission all the way to the floor to undo your bolts and the motor mounts don't mind.

sa29560

For me I'll use a wobbler, a 12 inch extension and a 6" with a pneumatic or cordless impact.

Makes quick work of those bellhousing bolts.

Another way to use less extensions is through the shifter column.

fray

I'm doing everything I can to NOT remove the transfer case/transmission. If I have to, I will.. but it's a lot of extra weight and complications to go through that process. (All for four bolts...)

I just bought some swivel sockets and some longer extensions and will try again. I was able to get my impact gun on one of the bolts and it didn't budge. So either I need a new impact gun, or this bolt is way over-tightened (or has locktight on it).

fray

Well 30-inch extension with a swivel bit and all of my strength on an 18" breaker bar and the first one came loose. There was no locktight, just a -very- small amount of rust on the first thread into the cast iron..

So either the rust was stopping me, or it was over torqued at the factory... Now onto the other three bolts (which I can't see from under the vehicle, and my helper hasn't shown up yet..)

Canvas

I would strongly recommend removing the transfer case and transmission. It will make installation a lot easier.

Of you choose to leave the transmission/transfer case still installed use a transmission Jack to support the front of the transmission.

R/
Will

fray

Engine is out.

A few tips for folks. Take the passenger side wheel well cover out. It will help you get to the engine mount bolts. Remove these, as it will give you more room to go side-to-side to avoid the air conditioner lines.

The other tip -- when you remove the engine, the jeep will suddenly get about 2 inches taller.. which makes it REALLY difficult to get the engine over the core support!

Otherwise out went ok... lets hope going back in goes as smooth or smoother...

Under the hood -- no engine

Engine out of the vehicle

OverKill

One thing I learns from an ASE mechanic friend, air down the tires, you loose 3-4 inches. Don't forget to air em up when yur done

fray

That is exactly what we had to do to get the engine out of the Jeep.

now once I figure out how to get the old engine out of the way, and the new one in position.. I can start getting the (new) flywheel and clutch installed and figure out how to get it back into position and mated up to the transmission (that is the part I'm most worried about in the whole process..)

resharp001

I might have missed it, are you just replacing with another 3.8L?