Fuel injector cleaning
 

I know the solvent exists to put in your tank but is there actually a way to disconnect the injector and put it in a parts washer or something to fully clean it out?

Sorry for the possible ridiculous question but I'm dealing with an extended start issue and if the crank and cam position sensor don't fix it this weekend I'd be looking into either the ignition lock cylinder or fuel injection cleaner. I've never heard of anything but the stuff in the gas tank but I'm not an expert by any means. I do have access to a parts washer.

Good timing. I've been thinking about a can of Sea Foam for the tank, and maybe wipe some cleaner in the throttle body. Probably won't be taking it as far as you are, but I'm interesting in the replies.

I've seen in related searches a bunch of videos on the tube about using a pressurized fuel injection cleaning kit that apparently works incredibly well. Google it on the tube and see what Scotty K says.

I've replaced fuel injectors in the past, on my 2000 Wrangler. It's my understanding that they get gummy inside. A parts washer is good for big pieces but you may be on to something if you look at those ultra sonic cleaners from HF with some kind of hot juice in the bin to break down the gum.

Or $400 to just replace all 6 of them with OEM mopar? At 160k I'm just wondering if these things have had it. I plan on driving it for at least another 40k plus with the lifetime power train warranty. I know the rule is if it isn't broke don't touch it for the most part but once again that's more for people who are on pavement and not in the middle of nowhere that can't afford to get stuck.

Another quick question. As I replace the crank and cam position sensors today it also seems as if the harnesses can sometimes go bad as these wires are not protected by plastic tubing and are in very prone heat areas.

Would it be a good idea to protect these wires by putting a small amount of aluminum tape around them to shield from heat. Or by taping the wires heat can now be held inside and will cause more of an issue?

Same holds true for the plastic connectors? Maybe just a small amount of aluminum tape to shield it from the heat but not cover the red tab or push clip depending on type?

Electrical tape better or just leave alone?

I'm at 194k on my stock injectors and they seem just fine. I run higher quality fuel ever now and again.

On to your plastic loom question- I just replace the loom with new and then use Tesa tape to secure it. It's way better than electrical tape.

I run "Magna" down in Baja very often and that's considered 90 octane. I won't bother with anything on the fuel injectors unless they give me issues. I'll just do some sea foam in the gas tank on my next big trip and hopefully that helps clean it out good.

I will leave the plastic connectors alone but what about the wires? You tape them with Tesa? The crank position sensor wire is right there and it's in a super hot spot. Feel like I should be doing something before I possibly get stuck.

BG 44k supposedly works really well, my parents seats by it in their GTI. As far as the wires, yes, I remove the factory loom and replace it with higher quality heat resistant loom. I think it's just the age, heat cycling, and general elements that wear it out. I replace as much as I can and keep driving. The Tesa tape is the name brand but I've found an equivalent at a local hardware store, of course I can't find the label anymore but I think it was labeled friction tape. Really similar to what the factory uses to tape things up where it holds to itself even in inclement conditions. The other thing I've used for the loom ahead of the radiator, where it's constantly exposed to the sun, is gorilla self fusing tape. That stuff is great for holding the loom together and giving it extra protection against rubbing through the radiator support.

Yea maybe I can look on amazon for some higher quality wire loom. Get this process started.