I held off on the purge valve. I re-set the code after wrapping the purge valve lines. If/when it goes off again, I'll try the silicon on that Integrity module o-ring, then reset the code again. If that doesn't work for a while, then I'll go see about a smoke test...

 

Yep, I was scrolling down looking for that. My problem was a split in the right angle bend just below the purge valve.

 

I wrapped one line completely, elbows and all. The other line (which snakes behind the engine, presumably to the gas tank?) I wrapped as much as I could get to. I double wrapped all the bends and ends. We'll see how long this lasts.

 

Still got the code... I'm gonna wrap (with electrical tape) that evap hard line that goes from the filler neck to the evap canister, and I'm also going to add some sealant to the oring for that Integrity Module. I'm also going to do a better job of spreading epoxy around those plastic elbow nipple fittings on the top of the tank. I don't think I did a good enough job before. I'm really hoping that the hole isn't in the long evap line from the tank to the purge valve... Here's to hoping this round of work will do the trick... If not, I'm definitely going to get a smoke test- I FINALLY found a local shop that does it.

 

Usually it's a minimal crack at that nipple on the tank. My fix was to pull it all the way apart and slather it with epoxy to seal it. I don't think a coating just on the outside will suffice, but I could be wrong. I tried the silicone grease on the ESIM integrity piece on the black box with zero change. I think that's going to be a pointless move unless your o-ring is dried up. It's not likely to be the long run either. Under the hood is common because we move things around and then it starts rubbing. At the tank is common because they did a terrible job of getting all of the lines in one firm bundle down to the tank-- which is NOT something you should try to correct. I zip tied all of the lines together and it put more stress on the crack. I ended up cutting them loose but they need to be firm, yet not right up against the fill tube.

 

As for the epoxy, I'm using this epoxy putty that's marine grade and is designed to be around fuel and such. It should both seal and reinforce those stupid plastic nipples. I may have kinked/cracked a evap hard line (plastic one) when I relocated the evap canister... I've been thinking on it, and I think I'll hold off on the silicone on that integrity module. I JUST replaced the o-ring and the integrity module a few months ago, so that o-ring should still be good. I figured that all the lines under there needed to flex, so I don't think I tried zip-tying them together or to something solid... I could be wrong though. I'll check it out this weekend.

 

FINALLY got the evap issue fixed. Did a smoke test, and (not sure how I didn't notice them before) the hose going to the air box was disconnected, there was a leak in one of the lines at the back of the engine, and the oil cap was leaking as well... Weird. Anyhoo, all fixed, re-tested, no smoke leaking from anywhere. So far so good. I'll update again if something goes awry.

 

Ok, I gotta ask, what and where is this “Integrity module” referred to here?
thanks!

 

Integrity module sits down on the charcoal canister, it's only a couple inches and it twists into the charcoal canister.

 

and its purpose is?